I am setting up a superdish by myself. I have dp301 receiver and dp34 switch. I am sure I got dish point to right angle because by bypassing switch, all LNB has strong signals shown on receiver. The problem is with dp34 switch, I can't see all 3 sats at one time. I tried all LNB/Port combination, I can see any 2 sats combination, 121/119, 121/110, 110/119. But there is always 1 sat NC (no connection). It is so frustrating. I have no idea what goes wrong. bad switch?
superdish + dp34 only see 2 sats at one time
- Thread starter shilpa
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Try putting the sats on the switch in oreder of 119, 110, 121. What were your signal strengths on transponder 11 for both 119 & 110?
Theres no real particular order needed for the dp34 switch, if you are moving the lines on the switch around and your seeing something new each time then it sounds like a bad switch. If when you run the check switch and you see this
119 121 X 110 121 X 119 110 X
All All X All All X All All X
then you have a bad switch but only if the X's are in the same place each time. So first thing to do is look at your current check switch and see what it shows you, now go outside and swap the cable closest to the X with the line thats on it and see if the X stays, if it does your switch is bad, if it follows then the next step is to trace that line back and check the fittings at either end to be sure that no steel braiding and or foil is making contact with the center conductor, also you want to make sure that the center conductor is no more than 1/8 of an inch above the lip of the fitting and no shorter than the lip.
If your line looks good then you can now swap that line at the dish with another, be sure to mark this line that you started with at both ends and run your check switch, if the x sticks with this line then replace the line. Idealy you should have a signal on the 121 of atleast %65, when I tune in super dish's I always tune off the 119 lnbf wich is the center lnbf in the whole cluster, it always works best that way in my opinion and if you can peak that signal at atleast %110 you will have the other two but if you can get it to %120 then your gonna really be locked in so long as your dish is on a plumb mast and your settings are all correct.
119 121 X 110 121 X 119 110 X
All All X All All X All All X
then you have a bad switch but only if the X's are in the same place each time. So first thing to do is look at your current check switch and see what it shows you, now go outside and swap the cable closest to the X with the line thats on it and see if the X stays, if it does your switch is bad, if it follows then the next step is to trace that line back and check the fittings at either end to be sure that no steel braiding and or foil is making contact with the center conductor, also you want to make sure that the center conductor is no more than 1/8 of an inch above the lip of the fitting and no shorter than the lip.
If your line looks good then you can now swap that line at the dish with another, be sure to mark this line that you started with at both ends and run your check switch, if the x sticks with this line then replace the line. Idealy you should have a signal on the 121 of atleast %65, when I tune in super dish's I always tune off the 119 lnbf wich is the center lnbf in the whole cluster, it always works best that way in my opinion and if you can peak that signal at atleast %110 you will have the other two but if you can get it to %120 then your gonna really be locked in so long as your dish is on a plumb mast and your settings are all correct.
While not absolutely required, it is recommended by E* to put 119 on input #1, 110 on #2. The reason for this is that when adding or resetting receivers, they expect to see 119 first. It simply avoids a possible confusion/failure point.Van said:
This is the same reason that there is ccasional trouble with Twin LNBs of any kind - the #2 port defaults to 110, so the receiver there is confused until Check Switch is run.
