Stuck Nut on the elevation bolt on C-band big dish

[ECruzBUD]

Hi,


On my 10 foot mesh dish antenna, I have a problem...

The lower nut on the elevation bolt is STUCK!!!

Enclosed photo attachment of the lower nut on the
elevation bolt. It's 12 years old.

It all stared out on Friday May 9th, it was raining that cuased the problem.
I cannot loosen or tighten the lower nut on the elevation bolt. It's STUCK like it won't turn either way. Cused by the rain on last Friday. I shouldn't have make any adjustment IN THE RAIN!!!!

So, have any of you successfully made a suck nut to loosen????

I have NO problem with the upper or top nut on the elevation bolt.
I can loosen it or tighten it.
It's the bottom nut below it, is STUCK.

When I loosen the top nut a little bit, and tried to loosen
the bottom nut, it's stuck. Usually this doesn't happen.

So, I'm using the "PENETRATING Catalyst" spray can.
www.BlasterCorp.com.

The assistant manager at ACE Hardware store gave me this one.

Could "LIQUID WRENCH" work better???

On Sunday, I used the "Penetrating Catalyst" spray every 2 hourse, and twice, today on the lower nut on the elevation to hopefully loosen it. But as right now, nothing!!! It's still stuck like "LOCK-IN". Maybe that 12 years old nut is ja

So, I am wondering what would you use, or have you use stuff that works to loosen the tighten nut on the elevation bolt????

HELP???
Thanks,
Eugene

 

[Hockeynut]

Liquid Wrench is good but Kroil is even better...Small propane torch may be your best bet..Good luck..

 

[ECruzBUD]

Where do I find Kroil??? Is it a spray can????
How often would I spray onto that lower nut???
How long would it take to make it loose????
Should I wait for an hour after spray with Kroil????

Thanks,
Eugene

 

[ECruzBUD]

Is propane torch a spray can???
Never heard of propane torch.

Thanks,
Eugene

 

[Hockeynut]

Here ya go Eugene..That PB Blaster that was recommended to you is a good penetrating oil also.

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...vptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_2k4ruwn6ry_b

Once the nut and allthread get rusted up like in ur pic then a combination of remedies is needed....Like I mentioned a torch is a big help..Try to keep the heat on the nut so it will expand and break free..Obviously the heat will spread but you get the idea.

 

[KE4EST]

I agree I would put a torch on that.

 

[FaT Air]

I prefer larger torches, acetylene. Hotter so the nut gets hotter, quicker, than the all thread. If that's not an option I go with MAPP gas (Dang- can't get it any more - close alternative )
Another solution is a nut splitter.
After you get it working again, coat with a water repellent, of which WD-40 is amongst. I prefer an aerosol automotive grease. Think it lasts longer. I apply it to the adjustment bolts/nuts and the actuator inner tube twice a year. (Spring/Fall)

 

[. Raine]

With stuff like that I usually sandblast what is visible of the threads and then spray PB Blaster onto it and that usually works.

If that's not a viable option for you, I'd clean the threads with a wire brush and then heat it up with a torch.

That threaded rod and the bolts don't look real super bad, I'd think that a torch and heating it up real good would work.

 

[turbosat]

1. wirebrush bottom of the nut, PB blaster and let it soak an hour or two. Or, maybe , #2. Loosen upper nut, pull down on dish and see if you can turn the bottom nut UP instead of down, to break it free. You can paint a dot on one flat surface of the upper nut and count how many times you turn it, if you don't want to get too far off with your original elevation setting. You'd think spraying that upper one with the PB blaster would drip some of it down the bolt, to loosen the bottom one, but who knows?
If none of that works I'd go with the torch, extreme heat method. A welding shop could probably make you another elevation bolt if it ends up breaking in two.

 

[Magic Static]

Box wrench and a hammer

 

[jorgek]

This is what I use. Great to loosen seized and frozen rusted nuts and bolts. Becareful working around gas tanks could be fatal. Also useful in the kitchen to brown crème brule or meringue.

 

[lfp302]

GENTLE tapping with a hammer and punch helps to fracture the rust granules. Use heat and penetrating oil - let soak and allow heating/cooling cycle(s). If using acetylene - heating it RED HOT is not a good idea, as it allows atomic matrix of nut to rearrange and shrink- making it even tighter - also burns galvanized coating causing more lock-up and fumes to poison YOU. Apply alternating tighten and loosen wrench action.

 

[Pixl]

Box wrench and a hammer

Agree with this. A box wrench pushes equally on all sides of the nut. An open wrench or even worse a adjustable wrench squeezes the nut on two sides making it harder to turn. Also use some heat! :

 

[phlatwound]

If using acetylene - heating it RED HOT is not a good idea, as it allows atomic matrix of nut to rearrange and shrink- making it even tighter...

I guess I just got lucky when I have used a fire wrench to heat up some stuck fasteners red hot, it seemed to work well.

Got lucky a few hundred times...

 

[skysurfer]

I recommend a metal pipe or something that can give you more leverage on trying to turn the bolt. I've had good success with spraying and waiting with a PB blaster type product (forget what one I used) and then using a wrench with a metal pipe over the end to give me ridiculous leverage to get the bolt loosened.

 

[ECruzBUD]

Hi Folks!!!

GREAT NEWS!!!!

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!

HOW????

NO HEATING
NO SPRAY CAN

On Thursday night before 9 PM PST, the weather
was HOT at 84 degrees. And it was still hot during
sun set.

I FINALLY GOT THAT BOTTON NUT LOOSEN!!!!

After 5 days using that "PB PENETRATING CATALYST"
spray can on that bottom nut in trying to get it to loose.

How did I made it loose with out whatever you suggested
to use????

I decided once more using the adjustable wrench, locked
it onto that bottom nut, TIGHT!!! And then I used the
HAMMER to hit on the end of the wrench handle. I keep on
hitting until I felt the loose comes out.

When it got loose, it felt very smooth. Not rough.

So, problem solved. Great news!!! I thought to inform you,
so that we can END this soap opera story!!!

Comment is always welcome.

Do you think it's that spray can I was using for the past
5 days??? Or do you think using the hammer might have
help in the first place??? Or do you think the HOT weather
at 84 degree might have made it for change???

Well, whatever you think, I'm glad I got it made.
But I would welcome for your comment on HOW
TO PREVENT THIS FROM HAPPENING, AGAIN???????
Maybe should I get Kroil spray or the Propane torch,
READY for future needs????

What do you think???

Thanks for reading my post.

Eugene
Seattle, Washington

 

[FaT Air]

The penatrant and the 'shock' working together. Along with perseverance.

After you get it working again, coat with a water repellent, of which WD-40 is amongst. I prefer an aerosol automotive grease. Think it lasts longer. \ but is messier\ I apply it to the adjustment bolts/nuts and the actuator inner tube twice a year. (Spring/Fall)

 

[Cham]

I would get yourself a good quality combination wrench (box at one end, open on the other) of the size you of that nut, and the longest one you can find (longer it is the more torque one can apply). You can never have too many tools, a good wrench "set" is always a good investment. The nut looks like a 3/4" but I may be wrong. Replace the nut(s) if they seem damaged in any way with fully galvanized/zinc coated ones, and run a die up and down the threaded rod to remove any thread imperfections. Before re-installing the new nuts put some heavy grease (thick, not runny) on the threads. As suggested above spray the assembly once adjusted with a spray-on protectant (I have used spray-on chain lube but this is expensive, painting on some motor oil or any petroleum based lube would help).

Remember not to over tighten with that longer wrench, you have to apply more torque to undo that nut than what you used to tighten it... a stationary assembly like that shouldn't require a lot of torque to hold it in place.

Glad you got it apart without heating etc!

 

[Pittsville]

I've had good luck sometimes using the tiny Dremel cutoff wheels, to cut into a nut enough to make it possible to remove it. I try to cut into it enough to make it possible to spread it, or split it away from the bolt. This works good on a nut that you can't get a good position for leverage on, or one that is really trashed and rusted like an exhaust bolt or something like that, but of course you have to make sure not to cut into the treads. Those brittle little cutting wheels will break if you look at them too hard, and they will wear down quick, but they work very well for me, and I've been using them more and more since I first tried it in desperation on a stubborn, rounded off nut. It is a last resort but it works a lot better than I thought it would. I always thought of the Dremel tool as something for artists, and model builders, but in my hands, it is a destructive device for stubborn nuts. That's about the only thing I ever use one for.

 

[updatelee]

The best penetrating oil Ive used is a 50/50 mix of ATF (automatic transmission fluid) and acetone. Works better then anything in a can I ever used. Takes time though, soak it for a few days. If you can apply an impact to it it'll often break it free.

UDL