Singal strength

Alto101

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Original poster
Supporting Founder
Jan 15, 2005
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Louisville, KY
I just had my 942 installed and I want to check the signal strength to see if the installer did a good job peaking it.

I believe that I should be looking at 110 and 119, correct?

What transponders should I look at under each orbital location to check signal strength, and what is a great number/good number/bad number?

Thanks,
Ryan
 
I typically will check transponders 11 or 12 for the 110 and 119.

Dish states that 70 signal strength is "acceptable minimum". I personally would bump that up to 80. At any rate, with that said, as long as you're consistently over 105 on the above stated transponders, then you're in fine shape
 
webbydude said:
I typically will check transponders 11 or 12 for the 110 and 119.

Dish states that 70 signal strength is "acceptable minimum". I personally would bump that up to 80. At any rate, with that said, as long as you're consistently over 105 on the above stated transponders, then you're in fine shape

I checked both transponders on each orbital location on both tv's and I am only getting numbers in the 60's. The weather isn't perfect out right now, but the Voom dish is getting in the mid 90's so I am sure it isn't the weather. Any ideas? I am thinking that I will need to get the installer out here again...
 
Yeah 60s isn't good.

Call back and let the CSR take you through their signal test song and dance, they'll determine that the install wasn't acceptable and set up an appointment for a repeak.

I had this same problem when I got installed.
 
Alto101 said:
I checked both transponders on each orbital location on both tv's and I am only getting numbers in the 60's. The weather isn't perfect out right now, but the Voom dish is getting in the mid 90's so I am sure it isn't the weather. Any ideas? I am thinking that I will need to get the installer out here again...

this will not work you will get pixletion all the time at 60 when i install E* most of the time i always get a signal above 115 no less than 105 you need to call for them to come back for sure.

t
 
While over 100 is pretty common I would be satisfied if both satellites on transponder 11 were 90 or better and 12 was within 10 units of 11. That gives you plenty of room for bad weather and frankly, I've noticed different receiver models read signal levels differently. For example, dual tuner receivers seem to always read about 10 units less than a single tuner on the same install.
 
I typically check transponder 11 on both 110 and 119. (Dish 500 only) I like to get 100 or better, but I'll take a 90 if I'm in a hurry. It's not all in pointing the dish, either. Every lead to the LNB will give a different signal strength. The distance of the cable run, number of connectors/ switches /diplexers, tightness of the connections, etc. Legacy, DishPro, or DishPro Plus?

But the root problem is good or bad reception, which can stem from line of sight issues. You can shoot a dish through a naked tree in January and get a 125, but mysteriously draw a 35 in late April (damn trees). If you've got a 90+ and a clear line of sight, you're probably good to go.

60 is a different story. Call that lazy tech back out there.
 
actually for the 119 satellite it has to be transponder 19 and transponder 20 for the 110. that where all program guide info is d-loaded and where the recv gets the software updates. dish recomends 75 points of signal or better but of course the higher the signal the less likely you are to lose signal in any bad weather.
 
actually, you check signal strength on transponder 11.

when you check signal strength, you udon't care about dl the epg or software updates. You're checking signal, period.

fred
 
We've gone through this many times before on these boards. For 110 & 119, 11 AND 12 are the ones to use. You MUST check the even number to make sure you don't have a cabling problem. On DishPro, even # transponders will be affected first by cable/connector losses.

11 & 12's strength is "middle of the road", so you're not likely to max out the meter - and if you do, great! In any event, NEVER EVER use a spotbeam.
 
Lately, the major problem for many of the company's field techs is they use the sat buddy's to align the dish and dp+ doesn't read correctly with the sat buddy. I haven't checked the brick (channel master) or any other meter, but the sat buddy is widely used and you have to peak with a regular twin, dual, quad, whatever as long as it is not dp+. dp+ will tell you that you are peak in even with a 4-point test on the dish. but if you swap the dp+ lnb after peaking and throw a regular lnb on it will say you are off. After a lot of investigation/experimenting around, the most accurate way to align the dish is by using a regular lnb as i just mentioned and by peaking in both 119 and 110. 4-point tests on both, rise and fall on both. if you can't rise and fall on both 119 and 110, then your skew is off a little. I can't tell you how many dishes i re-peak time after time because "oh the installer just didn't have that extra 20 seconds of time to do it right". I am amazed everyone I know at DISH downplays signal as being important. they're more concerned with grounding, and "oh it's hitting 80 good enough" well excuse me, grounding is important yes, but it doesn't keep a customer. signal does and that is our business. so peak it in!!!!!

p.s. all single tuner receivers except the 811 should read anywhere from 100-120. 811 usually 95-110. All dual tuner receivers should be in the range of 90-100. Yes you can hit 100 on a dual tuner box even with a separator. these signals i pulled off transponders 11-12 as mentioned is previous posts. and the excuse about long line runs and connectors, diplexors, etc... is b.s. I ran 300 feet on DP on a 301 and hit 115 with no amplifier.

.............and it's buried in the ground!
 
Could not have said it better. I use the advantage meter and with all the "stuff" in the DP+, I can watch the battery drain (and the signal drop) trying to power the DP+ lnb. I use a DP Twin to aim and peak and then install the DP+.
 
Use the old fashioned single brick Channel Master to aim those DPP's. Put the single lead on the left-most LNB port (#1 port) and peak it. works like a champ and save a lot of time swapping LNB's.
 
Check your signal strength again when your weather clears up. Signal strength will vary depending on your location in the US and the model of receiver you have. I'm in NE Ohio and I in the 105 range on a 522 with light rain / snow mix. 60 is not good unless it is raining pretty hard.
 
The Channel Master or Eagle Aspen brick is money with DPP. The only meter I've found that flat out won't work with DPP is the Digisat, a bummer because I like to use it for superdishes.
 
I use the Satbuddy 2 exclusively, and I never have problems peaking in anything ever. The lowest my dual tuners will go is 95. Usually 96-105. But anything over 90 is fine and dandy... it's the darn 121 satellite that we here in Wisconsin have to worry about. When a customer looses signal, it's almost ALWAYS local channels first (off of 121). So I make sure 121 is high high high. Like, 75 ish.

From time to time my Satbuddy will max out when I'm peaking... It's rare, but it happens. Then I just kinda guess. :D

Four months without a trouble call and going strong! (at least, not one I was repsonsible for).
 

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