Satellite pole
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Depends on weather conditions, type of cement, mixture, mass and weight/height/loading of the reflector.
I usually will wait a minimum of 2 or 3 days and even then be careful not to stress the pole with excess movement or wind loads. Usually more comfortable with early loading if have several rebars set through the pole at 90 degree angles near the bottom and top of the mass.
I usually will wait a minimum of 2 or 3 days and even then be careful not to stress the pole with excess movement or wind loads. Usually more comfortable with early loading if have several rebars set through the pole at 90 degree angles near the bottom and top of the mass.
agree with answers above
If it's a 20" dish 2' off the ground, then soon.
If it's a 12' dish 20' in the air, then not so soon.
If it's a 20" dish 2' off the ground, then soon.
If it's a 12' dish 20' in the air, then not so soon.
Dish's are a lot of wind load. I wait a full 5 days (11- 80 lb bags) for a c-band dish, and at least 3 days for a ku 1 meter. Don't forget the ground itself can be wet, and can cause it to cure slower.
That's nowhere near enough cement. That'll bend over in the wind in no time at all. It's wind load you are worried about, not so much weight of a dish if it's 1 meter metal. Add about 3 - 80 lb bags to that MINIMUM. I also hope your ground doesn't freeze, because at 2 ft, it'll lift the dish.
Cement is cheap, why skimp on it? It's like $4.00 per 80 lb bag where I live...
A few hours should be fine after the cement sets up.
When doing a Dish or Directv install, we usually give it 10 or 20 minutes.
The longer the better, if your going to set the Dish when the cement is not completely dried, just be careful not to move the pole when pointing the Dish
When doing a Dish or Directv install, we usually give it 10 or 20 minutes.
The longer the better, if your going to set the Dish when the cement is not completely dried, just be careful not to move the pole when pointing the Dish
Not knowing your location? I'm guessing Kentucky since your avatar is UK. Here in Ohio 30" deep because of frost line. I use fast setting cement as well. Then its ready by the end of the day. If your in the bluegrass state and you've already got it at 24" it will probably hold for now. Just keep checking it every month or so to see if pole is still plumb. Here the soil is all clay and lucky I've got no rocks in it. The frost line is the issue with the ground freezing and thawing which may be your only problem this winter. FYI I know at least one of my fixed Ku dishes is only 26" in the ground and it's still plumb.
I flatten the end going into the ground to prevent the pole from turning. One can also drill a hole through the pole and put a bolt through it having it set in concrete to help prevent it from turning after it sets up. You can get the fast setting concrete for a little more money. 1-2 bags of concrete should be enough to set the pole. You can use a pole driver to drive the bottom of the flat end into the ground to prevent it from twisting while the concrete sets up.
Ramy you prob have the same limestone rock terrain I have here, I can sympathize with the 2' lol, lucky to get that deep here without blasting!
I usually let mine set over night, and have never put more than a couple of bags of quickrete in these! Of course being in near solid rock and having little wind helps, some of these pipes have been in for 3-4yrs already and still plumb.
I usually let mine set over night, and have never put more than a couple of bags of quickrete in these! Of course being in near solid rock and having little wind helps, some of these pipes have been in for 3-4yrs already and still plumb.
There is "best practice" and "what gets you by". Usually conversations here on the forum favor what gets you by rather than the best way for reliable results. If I go to the effort to dig a hole and install a pole, I don't want it leaning in a few years...
Usually hobbyist of any interest goes overboard on the implementation of their hardware. Never could figure out why most FTA enthusiasts in North America are so opposite of other hobbyists.
We seem to be thrifty to a fault and under build installations. Bragging rights go to the smallest dish that is propped up with 2x4s against a six pack, a sun damaged LNBF with a Pringles can top duct taped to a lawn chair arm feeding a $10 receiver using 25 pieces of RG59 barreled and spliced.
Personally, I am impressed with over engineered installations and machined doo dads that hold shiny thing a mabobs.!
Usually hobbyist of any interest goes overboard on the implementation of their hardware. Never could figure out why most FTA enthusiasts in North America are so opposite of other hobbyists.
We seem to be thrifty to a fault and under build installations. Bragging rights go to the smallest dish that is propped up with 2x4s against a six pack, a sun damaged LNBF with a Pringles can top duct taped to a lawn chair arm feeding a $10 receiver using 25 pieces of RG59 barreled and spliced.
Personally, I am impressed with over engineered installations and machined doo dads that hold shiny thing a mabobs.!
This is definately a hobby that fits a lot of different personality types. Though it often resembles "Junkyard Wars" instead of "This Old House". Spending thousands of dollars kinda takes the Free feeling out of FTA. But then if hotrodders had to buy all their stuff from China, it definately wouldn't be called "State of the Art" This hobby is not a contest though, so"getting by" fits a lot of folks for many reasons. It's all good because in the end it still creates a wonderful community of people from all walks of life coming to gether and sharing their fun and ideas.
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