Sat 99b ?

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I am not digging a hole at all.

1. You claim there are no HD locals on 99. The following cities (at least) receive their HD locals from the 99 satellite:
Austin; Birmingham;Boston;Charlotte; Cincinnati;Columbus;Indianapolis;Kansas City;Las Vegas;Miami;Nashville;New York City (non-conus);Pittsburgh;Sacramento;Seattle;Washington DC; West Palm Beach;

If you were using the May/June charts, you would have been correct

2. You claim that there have been firmware downloads that disable the 99 sat. No such downloads have occurred, either for the H20 or for the HR20. [

Do you really want me to post other links to prove you wrong on this as well?

Your hole is so deep you'll never get out as it is

3. You claim that by changing over the cable inputs to the WB68 you can fool the receivers into thinking they are receiving 99 when they are actually receiving 103. That can't happen. The point I made in my last post is that it makes no difference what cable you connect to what input.

LOL....I NEVER CLAIMED THIS AS ITS IMPOSSIBLE...

Wrong again - you cannot swap the 2 because the 103W will only come on via port 3/4 of the WB68 when activated with a 22khz tone. The absence of that tone reverts to Port 1/2 and 99W.

The Multiswitch supplies a constant 22khz tone to the AT9/AU9 so that port 3/4 ALWAYS feed 103/110/119. Those port will NEVER feed you 99W/101W and if you remove Port 1/2 feed you CANNOT get 101/99W from Port 3/4 of the Multiswitch.

Again, you have confused the Multiswitch connections with the AT9/AU9 as the AT9/AU9 do not care which port they are connected to - which is why I was specfic in my original post of how to check it - you must have a WB68.


ROFLMAO - This is what I posted that you disagreed with.


You said "wrong again". Sorry, "right again". The input cables from the dish are not dedicated to any particular signal, if I swap over the two cables the signals in the two cables swap over because the multiswitch in the dish does not care which cable is used for which satellite. Of course if I disconnect the two cables connected to the 22 Khz ports on the WB68 I will lose those satellites. But if I disconnect the other two cables and reconnect them to the 22Khz ports I will get the satellites back and lose the other ones, I will not somehow get the satellites mixed up. This was NOT the case with older dishes without the built-in multiswitches. If there were four cables A, B,C,D from the dish I had to connect them correctly to the multiswitch ports or I would end up looking at the wrong satellites. The WB68 does not care. So there is no way that someone can incorrectly connect the cables to the WB68 and thereby make 103 look like 99.

Again, EXACTLY WHAT I SAID SPINMASTER!!!!!
 
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You know, let me put on the other hat for second.

Let's assume that your position is correct - and that both satellites are up and 100% operational to the public.

Directv said they will have 1500 channels available when that happens.

By count, given the markets and the holdouts, there are roughly 225 HD-LILs up on the birds.

So if your statement is true that everything is up and working - and available to the end user, then why has D* admitted that it has no more space to fill in the other 30% of the Raleigh DMA on an adjacent Spotbeam as they are out of room on those spotbeams - even though there are only currently 4 HD-LILs up from other markets - not the complete market.

They are a long way from 1,500 HD-LILs at this time.

WRAL - the leader in HD locals refuses to put up their CBS signal on D* as well as their Fox station in Raleigh because of the lack of coverage.

How can you spin that one?
 
A couple of things:
As I understand it (and the same issue exists in other parts of the country) at least one of the Raleigh stations is refusing to sign up with DirecTV because DirecTV will not deliver the stations' signals outside the DMA into other adjacent DMAs that the OTA station claims as part of its coverage area (the station is a "significantly viewed" local in a secondary DMA). DirecTV will not do this because they would have to create another spot beam to cover the adjacent DMA and would then be pressured by all the other stations covering the adjacent DMA to deliver their signals as well. DirecTV does not want to waste spotbeams doing this because they are rolling out the available transponders and spot beams to major markets and the adjacent DMAs are way down the list.

There are lots of stations in the same situation but as far as I know the station(s) in Raleigh are the only ones that have taken this position with DirecTV.

Second, the "1500 channels" will not be available until the new DirecTV 10 and 11 satellites are launched later this year. These will also go into the 99 and 103 slots.
 
A couple of things:
As I understand it (and the same issue exists in other parts of the country) at least one of the Raleigh stations is refusing to sign up with DirecTV because DirecTV will not deliver the stations' signals outside the DMA into other adjacent DMAs that the OTA station claims as part of its coverage area (the station is a "significantly viewed" local in a secondary DMA).

You understand wrong. The Spotbeam only covers 70% of the Raleigh DMA as verified by multiple posters on AVS who are D* subs in the Raleigh DMA that receive all the Raleigh SD channels and by the ABC O and O Engineer in Raleigh who wishes that ABC did not include their station in master agreement as the lack of coverage is causing them to receive multiple phone calls a day about from viewers about it.

Second, the "1500 channels" will not be available until the new DirecTV 10 and 11 satellites are launched later this year. These will also go into the 99 and 103 slots.

Huh??????

ROFLMAO

That says it all....even half a system could deliver 750 channels.


And finally, you might want to read here:

http://www.satelliteguys.us/showthread.php?t=64791

The thread was started on 5/02/2006

There were no Locals on 99W at the time

As you can read on 5/11/2006 they moved the stations around once 99W was activated for testing.

On 7/11/2006 they shut down everything for local HD-LIL except 103W Transponder 1-6 except for testing.

There has been another firmware upgrade since then.

As the HR20 was not released until 3Q, then how were people reading all 64 transponders off 99W and 103W when you state:

2. You claim that there have been firmware downloads that disable the 99 sat. No such downloads have occurred, either for the H20 or for the HR20. If you have an HR20 and you are in a city whose HD locals come from 99, or if you are in a spotbeam for a city whose locals come from 99, you will see transponders from 99. If you have the H20, you will not - this is a firmware bug, you willsee it reported all over the various forums. You may be receiving 99 signals OK, but you just can't see the transponders when you run the test.


Spin, Spin, Spin.

Sort of hard to read those transponders strengths with a HR20 that wasn't released yet and a H20 that had a firmware bug that you claim has always been there.
 
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Are you guy's done argueing yet ????
The original question was : Is there programming on the 99* sat ?
The answer is YES, many cities are having thier locals so far delivered by the 99* slot.

Someone here had a list of what locals came from the 99 and which from the 103 and those that were upcoming ......

There were plenty on each :eureka

Jimbo
 
Thankyou Jimbos, that is all I said. 99 is transmitting locals to several cities. HDTVfanatic thinks 99 is not transmitting HD locals to anyone. We disagree.
 
Thankyou Jimbos, that is all I said. 99 is transmitting locals to several cities. HDTVfanatic thinks 99 is not transmitting HD locals to anyone. We disagree.

The difference is I have listed proof that that is incorrect.

Sorry you choose to believe with no evidence - others here go for the scientific method which proves my position and your multiple postings of information proven incorrect on this subject continues to show where the evidence lies.

You can believe God is a Goat for all I care. Just don't try to sell incorrect info to others when evidence exists in this situation to the contrary.
 
The difference is I have listed proof that that is incorrect.

Sorry you choose to believe with no evidence - others here go for the scientific method which proves my position and your multiple postings of information proven incorrect on this subject continues to show where the evidence lies.

You can believe God is a Goat for all I care. Just don't try to sell incorrect info to others when evidence exists in this situation to the contrary.

I must have missed it. What proof are you referring to?
 
I must have missed it. What proof are you referring to?


You mean texasbrit saying there were no seperate inputs for 99W or 103W on a WB68 until I posted a picture?

Or that fact texasbrit said that H20 have ALWAYS had a software bug that never let them receive anything but T1-6 of 103W when the thread and timestamps show exactly what happened when and where.

Or that fact that texasbrit said that WRAL's problem was the TV stations total reach and not the actual Raleigh DMA and then we get:

http://www.satelliteguys.us/showthread.php?p=797453#post797453

Or the fact that the people that have a clue that have followed the steps I posted have confirmed that their HD-LILs are on 103W T1-6?

And anyone that can use 1/2 a brain (or even 10%) and figure out that if there were 2 working satellites that WRAL could be put on 2 spotbeams to fill in the portion of their DMA that they cannot cover - instead of claiming that a large portion of their DMA is just SOL?
 
You mean texasbrit saying there were no seperate inputs for 99W or 103W on a WB68 until I posted a picture?


You might want to check out page 5 of the WB68 instructions at http://www.hometech.com/pdf/gc-wb68.pdf which shows the cabling between a Ka/Ku dish, it says "Each of these 4 cables can go into any one of the 4 LNB connectors.".

And anyone that can use 1/2 a brain (or even 10%) and figure out that if there were 2 working satellites that WRAL could be put on 2 spotbeams to fill in the portion of their DMA that they cannot cover - instead of claiming that a large portion of their DMA is just SOL?

Maybe someone with 3/4 of a brain decided that it wasn't worth it to burn two spot beams to carry two channels in a DMA at this time just because the stations owners said all or nothing?
 
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You might want to check out page 5 of the WB68 instructions at http://www.hometech.com/pdf/gc-wb68.pdf which shows the cabling between a Ka/Ku dish, it says "Each of these 4 cables can go into any one of the 4 LNB connectors.".

As noted, it doesn't matter which cable OUT of the Ka/Ku Dish you use. IT DOES MATTER WHICH INPUT YOU USE if you want 99W or 103W.

Or to put it in simple terms for you, it doesn't matter which electrical outlet in my house I plug my TV into. However, the TV better be on the other end of the cord as the TV isn't going to operate if the coffee pot is on the other end.

Maybe someone with 3/4 of a brain decided that it wasn't worth it to burn two spot beams to carry two channels in a DMA at this time just because the stations owners said all or nothing?

As you are operating at less than full capacity, like D*, you fail to recognize that if they were operating transponders on 103W and 99W there would not be an issue running less than 250 HD-LILs at this time and no more capacity.
 
As noted, it doesn't matter which cable OUT of the Ka/Ku Dish you use. IT DOES MATTER WHICH INPUT YOU USE if you want 99W or 103W.

From what I've seen you just plain want to ignore anything that says you are wrong. The instructions clearly say it doesn't matter which of the four cable from the AU/AT-9 go into which of the four inputs on the WB68, it's only 72.5 and 95 that have to go to the correct inputs. So just go on believing what you want, fine by me.
 
From what I've seen you just plain want to ignore anything that says you are wrong. The instructions clearly say it doesn't matter which of the four cable from the AU/AT-9 go into which of the four inputs on the WB68, it's only 72.5 and 95 that have to go to the correct inputs. So just go on believing what you want, fine by me.

HDTVfanAtic is saying that it doesnt matter what cable comes out of the AT-9 the only things that matter are what ports your using on the WB68. If you disconnect the cables for 101/99 then the WB68 will no longer pass the signals from the AT-9 for the 101/99 thru to your reciever.
 
HDTVfanAtic is saying that it doesnt matter what cable comes out of the AT-9 the only things that matter are what ports your using on the WB68. If you disconnect the cables for 101/99 then the WB68 will no longer pass the signals from the AT-9 for the 101/99 thru to your reciever.

OK, from looking at the instruction manual for bot the AT-9 and the WB68 I don't see anywhere that it says a specific cable from the AT-9 MUST go to a specific port on the WB68.

On the AT-9 there are two LNB assemblies on it, one for 99/101/103 and the second for 110/119, see http://www.solidsignal.com/manuals/AT9_install_manual.pdf

On the WB68's instructions at http://www.hometech.com/pdf/gc-wb68.pdf on page 7 it says just hook for lines from the AT-9 to the WB68, doesn't say a specific cable needs to go to a specific port on the WB68. I've had two of these things installed and the installed didn't mark any cables or ton out which was which, just connected all four cables.


Now if you disconnect one of the cable yep you're going to be loosing some channels. If D* is doing the same thing with this new dish and switch you're probably loosing either horizontal or vertical polarization transponders from either the Ka or Ku band satellites.
 
OK, from looking at the instruction manual for bot the AT-9 and the WB68 I don't see anywhere that it says a specific cable from the AT-9 MUST go to a specific port on the WB68.

On the AT-9 there are two LNB assemblies on it, one for 99/101/103 and the second for 110/119, see http://www.solidsignal.com/manuals/AT9_install_manual.pdf

On the WB68's instructions at http://www.hometech.com/pdf/gc-wb68.pdf on page 7 it says just hook for lines from the AT-9 to the WB68, doesn't say a specific cable needs to go to a specific port on the WB68. I've had two of these things installed and the installed didn't mark any cables or ton out which was which, just connected all four cables.


Now if you disconnect one of the cable yep you're going to be loosing some channels. If D* is doing the same thing with this new dish and switch you're probably loosing either horizontal or vertical polarization transponders from either the Ka or Ku band satellites.

Your still missing it. When you use the WB68 you negate the built in switch in the AT9, you are simply filling the WB68 with signal and then the WB68 filters the signals and directs them to your receiver. If you unplug the cable for the 101 sat on your WB68 then when your receiver goes to look for any of the transponders on the 101 sat your WB68 will look for the appropriate port and then forward the signal from there, and thus if there is no cable in the 101/99 then there will be no signal.
 
HDTVfanAtic is saying that it doesnt matter what cable comes out of the AT-9 the only things that matter are what ports your using on the WB68. If you disconnect the cables for 101/99 then the WB68 will no longer pass the signals from the AT-9 for the 101/99 thru to your reciever.

Exactly.

If people don't understand how a WB68 works, no wonder they can't figure out that both satellites are currently not delivering HD-LIL

Input #1 of the WB68 has 101W and 99W 13v stacked on it
Input #2 of the WB68 has 101W and 99W 18v stacked on it.
D* has always taken the 110W transponders at 28-30-32 and converted them to transponders 8-10-12 and inserted them on 119W
Input #3 of the WB68 has 119W and 103W 13v stacked on it.
Input #4 of the WB68 has 119W and 103W 18v stacked on it.

It does not mater how those connector are run to the AT9/AU9. 1 can go to 1 - or 1 can go to 4 on the AT9/AU9.

However, if you unplug Input #1 and Input #2 of the WB68, you WILL NOT RECEIVE 101W OR 99W NO MATTER THAT INPUT #3 AND INPUT #4 ARE STILL ACTIVE AS THAT PORT WILL ONLY TAKE 119W AND 103W INPUT - and that WILL NOT ALLOW 101W OR 99W TO PASS.

Unplugging Input #3 and #4 on the WB68 WILL DISCONNECT 110/119 and 103W FROM YOUR SYSTEM. THEY WILL NOT COME IN ON INPUT 1 OR INPUT 2 of the WB68 no matter where you connect that RG6 to the AT9/AU9.

Thank god the new junior members get it and the old members can't grasp the obvious.
 
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After installing the Slimline AU9, my H20 receiver says the 99 sat network 10 failed. Don't I need the 99 satellite or 103 satelltie spot beam to receive the Houston High Def locals? I get no signal on either, but the 101 A, 119 B, and 110 C get good signals. The H20 receiver says I'm getting 4 of the 5 satellites. I used the Acutrac 22 Pro meter to set up the dish for Dtv.
 
After installing the Slimline AU9, my H20 receiver says the 99 sat network 10 failed. Don't I need the 99 satellite or 103 satelltie spot beam to receive the Houston High Def locals? I get no signal on either, but the 101 A, 119 B, and 110 C get good signals. The H20 receiver says I'm getting 4 of the 5 satellites. I used the Acutrac 22 Pro meter to set up the dish for Dtv.

Are you getting your locals in hd from D*? If so, that's all that really matters.
 
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H20 always goes to 480 after powered off

Sports package games in HD

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