Questions about The Hopper?
- Thread starter Scott Greczkowski
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International and HD channels will require a 1000+ dish with the dpp44 or the 1000+ dpp LNBF mentioned earlier.
Joey paring to Hopper is handled by software, not by hardware in the Nodes. See latest activation training video thread: http://www.satelliteguys.us/hopper-zone/279115-new-hopper-joey-activation-training-video.html
Is this something I should talk to the installer about, or do installers just normally want to do their own thing and not be bothered by customers wishing to sound smarter than they actually are? Also, how do I know which LNB I currently have? The DPP44 had a nice label on it... I could take a picture and post it here for you guys, if that would be best. Have to be tomorrow, because I'm working tonight.
Or use the older 500+ dish as a wing dish just for 118 wired to the input of a 1000.2 or 4 dish. No DPP44 required.
I'd definatly go with the 1000+ w/DPP LNBF
-1 Dish
-Integrated switch
-No power inserter required
Dish no longer supplies us techs with DPP33's anymore. I'm not even sure if they're made anymore because they don't add much capability. Since all new LNBs basically have a DPP43 switch built in, they already have more capability in every dish. A DPP33 can't add more outputs, and can't be trunked to another switch.
It depends on the installer, everyone's different. If it was me, I'd just present you with both options and see which you liked, but I'd reccommend changing the LNB and switch because all work can be done outside without having to damage your home anymore. It also eliminates a potential failure point from the system by removing the switch and power inserter. There is no way they would have installed the new LNB and the DPP44 unless you had 4 receivers running, so I'm fairly positive you have the older style LNB. Personally I'd just let the installer check it out and see what they recommend. If they want to drill, then maybe suggest the other option. Remember there may be some other factors involved too, I'm blindly giving basic advice over the internet based on your input and assuming you have a typical install. Seeing things in person can add a whole different level of potential issues I can't see.
This is true, but most people don't want 2 1000 sized dishes on their house.
I am hearing the ONLY switch you can use with the Hopper is a DPP44 switch, meaning a DPP33 will not work.
Scott,
I find nothing in the documentation that says that, and is not the built in switch on the 1000.2 functionally the same as the DPP33? Please double-check; I have just switched out my DPP44 to a DPP33.
Bob
Ahh yes, no to a Dish Pro 34 switch... a DPP33 is ok.
Sorry my mistake!
Thanks for checking. Nice thing about a DPP33 (when using two separate dishes with DP LNBFs in a Hopper architecture) is that it does not need a power inserter (and associated fourth coax run into the house).
Bob
I'm not even sure if we have one. We're able to get a lot of things by the next day so we don't have to stock a lot.
Do you want one Hopper or two? How are the dishes currently wired? If you only want one Hopper you can just run a line from the 129 wing to the LNB in port on the DPP Twin and then install the solo node. If you want two Hoppers you'd have to use a DPP switch of some kind.
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