Program Guide Question

[Cosmo Blatz]

This is for the Orby channels not OTA (OTA not connected yet).
My program guide states " no information available". This message appears when hitting the "Guide" button or when looking at individual channels. All the guide graphics are there, but no program info in the windows. Is there some trick to activating the guide data or do I need to call customer service?

 

[Titanium]

Satellite EPG downloads automatically. If the satellite dish has been disconnected or aimed at another satellite, or if the receiver is disconnected from power, it will take up to a 1/2 hour to populate.


If the unit has been powered on and pointed at 117w for at least a 1/2 hour and the EPG still does not populate, try a power cycle or a factory reset.

 

[Cosmo Blatz]

Update:

Spent about 45 minutes on the phone with Orby tech support. We went through all their trouble shooting steps. It was determined the receiver was defective.

Went to Best Buy to get a replacement.

New receiver acts the same as the original.

Apparently, my signal strength of 99/86 is just on the edge of reception.

No matter what I do, the receiver will not perform a software update. Tech support said the software update is required to get the program guide to function. (All Orby channels come in fine with absolutely no dropouts.)

All my FTA satellites come in very strong all across the arc. I put a wi fi camera on the Orby TV and went out to the dish to move it up/down and right/left. I can make the Orby signal worse but not better. So, I guess I'm peaked. (Didn't touch the skew.)

I wish I had a spectrum analyzer. I'm thinking there might be an RFI issue??? (I'm using quad shield solid copper RG-6.)

Any ideas guys and gals?

 

[SDA_FL_USA]

99/86 signal is great for a new out the box no software updated receiver. might try a different lnb like a geosat pro pll or maverick pll unless you have the orby dish and lnb. I'm using a repurposed DTV slimline and geosat lnb and seems like after powering up the receiver for the first time a software upate was the first thing that happened even before I activated it.

 

[Titanium]

I had a problem when I first installed the STB on my dish with a standard LO 10750 LNBF. To get the STB to update with original firmware, I had to slave the STB to a satellite meter and output 18v and 22KHz ON during the update. Now I can force an update with either the off the shelf LNBF or the Orby LNBF. Makes no sense to me, but that is how I got past the failing update. See post #141

What is Orby TV?????

Quality Satellite Television

www.satelliteguys.us

If your original STB also was running on original firmware, might explain why the EPG wasn't populating. After the first "forced" firmware update completed, my STB has automatically updated and the EPG worked fine. The support team also had thought my STB was faulty and had suggested that I exchange it.

 

[Cosmo Blatz]

UNBELIEVABLE!!!

Titanium: Thank you so much for the reply and the information!

I removed a 2-way splitter from my OTA system. This splitter has a DC path and a capacitor coupled path.

Hooked up the DC path to my FTA receiver and set it to 13 volts out with the 22 Khz turned on.

Hooked up the capacitor coupled side of the splitter (DC blocked) to the Orby receiver.

Did a full Orby reset (this has to be reset #20 or so). When the Orby got to the software update stage, the receiver started the software download immediately!

Software date is now 10/4/19 instead of early 2018.

I HAVE THE PROGRAM GUIDE AT LAST!!!!

Thanks again Titanium!

(13 volts is what it took to get my Orby to come alive, not 18 volts) I wonder if the Orby output voltage drops under load? I measured the voltage with the LNB disconnected and it was 13 volts, but no idea what the voltage is with everything connected. Titanium - do you also have a Stab90 in your system?

 

[truckracer]

UNBELIEVABLE!!!

Titanium: Thank you so much for the reply and the information!

I removed a 2-way splitter from my OTA system. This splitter has a DC path and a capacitor coupled path.

Hooked up the DC path to my FTA receiver and set it to 13 volts out with the 22 Khz turned on.

Hooked up the capacitor coupled side of the splitter (DC blocked) to the Orby receiver.

Did a full Orby reset (this has to be reset #20 or so). When the Orby got to the software update stage, the receiver started the software download immediately!

Software date is now 10/4/19 instead of early 2018.

I HAVE THE PROGRAM GUIDE AT LAST!!!!

Thanks again Titanium!

(13 volts is what it took to get my Orby to come alive, not 18 volts) I wonder if the Orby output voltage drops under load? I measured the voltage with the LNB disconnected and it was 13 volts, but no idea what the voltage is with everything connected. Titanium - do you also have a Stab90 in your system?

Orby uses 2 vertical transponders. 13v is vertical

Sent from our Pleadian star ship

 

[Captain Midnight]

I wonder how many good receivers have been tossed?

 

[Titanium]

Great that you found a fix for the problem. No motor or switches inline on the old Muzak dish, but it is a long coax run. I was using a PLL LNBF which has a higer than typical voltage switch polarity switch point. Might be that only the external LNB power was needed.

Looks like a few of us have experienced the same problem with the original firmware. Doubt there has only been two of us. Orby may want to be proactive and update to current firmware prior to sale.

UNBELIEVABLE!!!

Titanium: Thank you so much for the reply and the information!

I removed a 2-way splitter from my OTA system. This splitter has a DC path and a capacitor coupled path.

Hooked up the DC path to my FTA receiver and set it to 13 volts out with the 22 Khz turned on.

Hooked up the capacitor coupled side of the splitter (DC blocked) to the Orby receiver.

Did a full Orby reset (this has to be reset #20 or so). When the Orby got to the software update stage, the receiver started the software download immediately!

Software date is now 10/4/19 instead of early 2018.

I HAVE THE PROGRAM GUIDE AT LAST!!!!

Thanks again Titanium!

(13 volts is what it took to get my Orby to come alive, not 18 volts) I wonder if the Orby output voltage drops under load? I measured the voltage with the LNB disconnected and it was 13 volts, but no idea what the voltage is with everything connected. Titanium - do you also have a Stab90 in your system?

 

[Cosmo Blatz]

So, this morning I made up a coax DC break-out cable to test both receivers 13 volt output under full load.
(Measured using a Fluke 87)

Orby:........................ 13.22 volts
Amiko Mini HD265: 13.64 volts

The extra 0.42 volts that the Amiko receiver supplied to the LNB might be the difference between no update and a successful update.
Orby might want turn up the output voltage a bit. Maybe there is a quality control issue. Some receivers could be shipping with a lower output voltage. Does anybody know the actual spec for the 13 volt output? Brian???

EDIT: Found a spec but not sure if this is just a Hyundai spec or an industry standard:
13v to 14.5v

 

[Cosmo Blatz]

Since I don't have a meter that outputs LNB voltages, I adapted Brian's suggestion to what was available. Here's a diagram of my "fix". Maybe this will save others some grief. (Obviously both the red and green are on the center conductors.)
Once the update is complete, the splitter and power source can be removed. The normal Orby configuration can again be used.

 

[Titanium]

A LNBF usually will output vertical polarity and provide adequate amplification with 10 - 14Vdc source voltage. Current draw and distribution voltage drops are the variables.

An option to your above diagram with the single leg power passing splitter would be to use the loop through hardware often found on a FTA STB or Meter. Be sure to select a vertical transponder on the FTA STB or meter..

 

[Z_finigan]

I have orby TV. My system uses 2 c band satellites and 2 motor controllers.
With a 8x8 powered switch.

I can use Orby on any of my 8 lines in the house.

My control box 1 is for c band. 1 to 20
My control box 2 is for my second c band satellite I'm using a standard 10700 lnb ku 21 and up.
I use one fta box to control the entire system. My ku is the only one that has to be set back to 117w ku.
C band I can use freely.

My system updates even using the c band ku satellite.

The powered switch supplies the lnb with the correct currant. I've always used powered switchs. You don't lose as much on long runs.