- Looks to be 4 to 5 foot ,you can fold the V reflectors down,if that helps.Take a pad and strap it to the roof.
Preamp Recommendations?
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Ok maybe that one does come apart,in that case likely a couple of 7/16 wrenches and a pair of pliers should undo it,just be careful of the plastic parts.
im not sure but that's what it showed in the VU-160 manual.
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I would be VERY careful in folding the reflectors down, as that plastic by the boom (if it's plastic) tends to become brittle, and you can easily break them. IF the booms come apart, it will be obvious where the parting section is. It should be bolted together with wing nuts. Unscrew them, and pull the booms apart. A simple pair of pliers should help.
Are you sure that is a VU-60? It looks like too many elements for a VU-60, maybe a VU-120?
Do a google search for a Radio Shack VU-60/ VU-90/ Vu-120 and a VU-160 That should give access to instructions and dimensions.
I'm not sure we ever got a head-to-toe picture for the antenna but in any event, what waylew said is certain: the antenna can be closed up, but it cannot be taken apart (unless you are able to replace the aluminum rivets such that the elements can still move -- no pop rivets). The VU-120 came in a box that is about 10" x 10" x 10' long.
If you want to transport it inside a tiny sedan, fuggedaboutit. I used a full-sized 1968 Ford station wagon when I brought my VU-90 home and those would hold a full sheet of plywood with the tailgate closed. If you can bum a pickup ride out of a friend, it will be a much safer trip. If it is a short bed, bring a red flag with you as it is going to hang over the end. One with a rack would be ideal.
If fully functional, this is a pretty valuable item. Here's a page from the Radio Shack catalog:
If you want to transport it inside a tiny sedan, fuggedaboutit. I used a full-sized 1968 Ford station wagon when I brought my VU-90 home and those would hold a full sheet of plywood with the tailgate closed. If you can bum a pickup ride out of a friend, it will be a much safer trip. If it is a short bed, bring a red flag with you as it is going to hang over the end. One with a rack would be ideal.
If fully functional, this is a pretty valuable item. Here's a page from the Radio Shack catalog:
I believe that's a VU 120 in his pictures,6 vhf elements per side and if you look close it does have the mid boom coupler so it should be able to be made in to 2 pieces.I think VU 100's and below were strictly 1 piece.
Anyway,here's my VU 160 where it's been for the last 30? years.Not in use at this time as the balun wire broke and I can't reach it,anymore.
And another in my barn,
Oh and it's 11feet long,so I'm thinking the 120 is probably about 8 or 9 foot.
Anyway,here's my VU 160 where it's been for the last 30? years.Not in use at this time as the balun wire broke and I can't reach it,anymore.
And another in my barn,
Oh and it's 11feet long,so I'm thinking the 120 is probably about 8 or 9 foot.
After speaking to the seller, it looks like it can be taken apart. Also it is a VU-120. When I went to try to pick it up it was a very clean antenna. It was kept in his attic.
Well, I got the VU-120 today. It’s in very good condition but it’s missing the coax port. Any Ideas on what I should get to use it? How about this adapter?
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Usually those antennas have a matching transformer on them. I can’t tell from the photo where the leads would attach, though
It’s missing 3 elements
. Will that be a problem? It’s brand new though. Also, It’s missing the coax cable connector. Should I buy this RCA replacement? I’m thinking of soldering the elements back on.
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Yes, you need that matching transformer. I don’t see 2 connecting nuts on the antenna to affix it to, though, only the one- unless I’m just not seeing them in the photos
Ok, sorry for my previous posts being so choppy. The place where you connect the transformer is where the piece of paper is. It’s missing 3 elements, two UHF ones and 1 VHF one. I have the VHF element. Are these elements so important? Will it drastically impact performance?
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Well, I spent the last hour trying to wedge the elements back together. Turns out that they broke in my car
. Will this help at all?
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. Will this help at all? 
If you have those broken elements, just drill them with a drill bit, and use some appropriate nuts and bolts to bolt them back into place as best you can. Or if they broke with some stub-metal pieces left, try to find some slightly larger metal tubing, and make some short sleeves to bolt the elements back into place.
If some of the elements are completely missing, go to the hardware store and buy some metal tubing as close to the same diameter as you can, and make your own. Match lengths with the other side. Being off slightly won't make a lot of difference. elements completely missing though, will cause some loss issues.
As for that balun (matching transformer) one wire connector goes to one wing-nutted side, and the other wire connector goes to the other wing-nutted side.
If some of the elements are completely missing, go to the hardware store and buy some metal tubing as close to the same diameter as you can, and make your own. Match lengths with the other side. Being off slightly won't make a lot of difference. elements completely missing though, will cause some loss issues.
As for that balun (matching transformer) one wire connector goes to one wing-nutted side, and the other wire connector goes to the other wing-nutted side.
If you snap off one of the long elements at somewhere other than the rivet, you may be able to sleeve it back together by slipping the two pieces that used to be one over a smaller METAL tube or solid METAL rod. The metal isn't entirely important as long as it conducts electricity but aluminum would be best. The overall length of the element or its position relative to the other elements must NOT change significantly. The diameter is inconsequential.
The key to success with any antenna is don't twist it into a pretzel or break pieces off of it. This goes for TV antennas as well as satellite dishes. Each element is "tuned" to either capture or reflect certain wavelengths and part of that includes the spacing between the elements.
Probably not drastically but it may be noticeable. Of course since you have nothing to reference to, you won't know by how much.
The key to success with any antenna is don't twist it into a pretzel or break pieces off of it. This goes for TV antennas as well as satellite dishes. Each element is "tuned" to either capture or reflect certain wavelengths and part of that includes the spacing between the elements.
I just wedged the longer element into the stub that was left and it is a solid fit. The shorter UHF one snapped in half so I wedged it as close to the rivet as possible. Is it important for it to touch the cover or the pole? Is what I did enough? This is the picture of it wedged inside. Sorry for the quality, I wasn’t able to focus the camera. When I wedged the UHF element, it also was a snug fit.
The elements you "fabricate" should be the same length as the ones that they replace. Hopefully you have the partner of each of the broken elements as a reference.
Every shortcut you take will subtract from the overall effectiveness of the system and I don't use the term "system" lightly.
Every shortcut you take will subtract from the overall effectiveness of the system and I don't use the term "system" lightly.
They’re the same length. I have all the elements because I broke them when the antenna was in my car. I think I’ll just solder it back together. The element that is missing isn’t even important because it’s for VHF Lo. And VHF lo isn’t and won’t be in my market after the repack.
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