One pole mount through roof insane?

[Jim "Spot" Beam]

Due to a recent roofing job and growth of neighbors trees I'm in for a complete remount and reaim. I need more height to clear the trees for western arc for 123 and beyond.

Planning on going right near the peak and I'm strongly considering mounting straight pipe through the roof. I guess the best thing is to use the same type covers as ventilation pipes to prevent leaking. Mount the pipe into a threaded base in the attic and even running the coax through that pipe.

Any suggestions other than not to split my tablets and take the full dose?

Or has anyone done this or think the is doable?

 

[Anole]

close:

WescoPC did something like that for Ku. edit: well, I thought it was him -

The threaded base in the attic idea provides no lateral stiffness for the pipe.
You'd want to brace it somehow.
I thought you were gonna run it down an interior wall and tie it to the foundation.

Oh, and the Doctor called. He said to double your dose! -

 

[pendragon]

A friend of mine is considering a similar problem with a 3.5" od pipe through the roof as the most likely solution. In his case we are planning to build a very stiff pony wall between the ceiling joists and the roof rafters, and then anchoring the pipe with truck suspension u-bolts to the pony wall. By tying the wall across several joists and rafters, we believe this will provide a rigid mount. I used similar u-bolts to attach the same size pipe to the top of a reinforced outside wall to roof mount my 2.3m and it works fine.

 

[cracklincrotch]

A neighbour of mine has an 8' mesh dish on the peak of his roof. Though it's not used any more it's made it through some pretty bad wind storms in the eight years I've lived here and hasn't caused any problems that I can tell.

 

[Wescopc]

To be clear, the picture I linked to above was a mount done by GrumpyGuy. The one that I did was on a church with a 1.2 meter dish and a 2" pipe. It is a VERY sturdy mount. The pipe is secured at both the top and bottom of the truss near the peak of the roof. This allowed for about a 4 to 5 foot spread between the top and bottom u-straps. The dish has never moved in over 3 years.
Bob

 

[Jim "Spot" Beam]

To be clear, the picture I linked to above was a mount done by GrumpyGuy. The one that I did was on a church with a 1.2 meter dish and a 2" pipe. It is a VERY sturdy mount. The pipe is secured at both the top and bottom of the truss near the peak of the roof. This allowed for about a 4 to 5 foot spread between the top and bottom u-straps. The dish has never moved in over 3 years.
Bob

This was the exact (twisted) mental picture I had.

Woo hoo I'm not insane, it has been done before.

The top and bottom u-straps... is that how it is attached in the attic?

 

[phlatwound]

This was the exact (twisted) mental picture I had.

Woo hoo I'm not insane, it has been done before.

The top and bottom u-straps... is that how it is attached in the attic?

Jim, wescopc can tell you exactly how he did it but I'm guessing the bottom of the pipe is attached (with u-strap) to a ceiling joist, and the top is fastened to the roof rafter that is directly above it.

You could shim the top (or bottom) of the pipe if you needed it, to get it plumb.

There are several styles of open or closed conduit hangers (or even perforated plumbers "tape") that would work well to hold the pipe.

You might want to put an angle or some sort of "shelf" on the bottom of the pipe to keep it from dropping, or drill a hole or 3 in the pipe and run some long screws through it into your wood members after you have it plumbed up.

Lots of options and possibilities for this project.

 

[Wescopc]

In the attic, I found a spot that had a corner 2X? that was used for nailing the sheet rock. I rested the bottom of the pipe on that right next to the bottom cord of the roof truss. To find the proper location in the roof sheeting I used a plumb bob to center on the spot I wanted the base to rest. I then drilled a 1/4" hole straight up through the roof and shingles. Then from the top side I used a 2 3/8" hole saw, going straight down using the 1/4" hole for my pilot drill. I then worked the flashing under the shingles. Took two of us to drop the heavy pipe carefully through the rubber on the flashing until it rested on the 2X? below. Went in the attic and plumbed and strapped the pipe in place. Drilled a hole through the pipe and the cord of the truss and inserted a 3/8" bolt with washers and tightened to prevent rotation of the pipe.
I used a 12 oz pop can with the top cut off to cover the top of the pipe, prior to attaching the dish, to keep the rain out of the pipe/attic. The dish U-bolts clamped around the pop can and mast.
Good luck,
Bob

 

[Anole]

oops:

. . . in best [ame="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emily_Litella"]Emily Litella - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia[/ame] voice: "never mind"! -

Jim, for some reason, I thought you wanted to put an 8' BUD on your roof.
That's why I was so worried about the mounting of the pipe.
For Ku, all the great ideas above, should fix you right up. - :up

 

[onceydoce]

In the attic, I found a spot that had a corner 2X? that was used for nailing the sheet rock. I rested the bottom of the pipe on that right next to the bottom cord of the roof truss. To find the proper location in the roof sheeting I used a plumb bob to center on the spot I wanted the base to rest. I then drilled a 1/4" hole straight up through the roof and shingles. Then from the top side I used a 2 3/8" hole saw, going straight down using the 1/4" hole for my pilot drill. I then worked the flashing under the shingles. Took two of us to drop the heavy pipe carefully through the rubber on the flashing until it rested on the 2X? below. Went in the attic and plumbed and strapped the pipe in place. Drilled a hole through the pipe and the cord of the truss and inserted a 3/8" bolt with washers and tightened to prevent rotation of the pipe.
I used a 12 oz pop can with the top cut off to cover the top of the pipe, prior to attaching the dish, to keep the rain out of the pipe/attic. The dish U-bolts clamped around the pop can and mast.
Good luck,
Bob

wescopc,
where did you get the flashing that rests on/under your shingels.
Is it possible for you to post a pic. from the mounted pipe in the attic?

Thanks
Onceydoce

 

[phlatwound]

wescopc,
where did you get the flashing that rests on/under your shingels.
Is it possible for you to post a pic. from the mounted pipe in the attic?

Thanks
Onceydoce

That flashing looks like a standard roof jack for plumbing, available at any home improvement store/lumberyard.

 

[Wescopc]

wescopc,
where did you get the flashing that rests on/under your shingels.
Is it possible for you to post a pic. from the mounted pipe in the attic?

Thanks
Onceydoce

Bought the roof jack/flashing at home depot. Standard for plumbing vents. I do not have access to the attic of the church - without getting a custodian to open it for me, I don't think it would be appropriate to ask.
Bob

 

[Fizbi]

Makes sense to me. I see no reason not to go as high as you need to.

Even though my dish hardware is as solid as a rock, the dish still wobbles in high winds with the heavy LNBF hanging out there at the end of the arm. I still get great speckle free reception.