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Excellent, thanks for pointing that out.
How was your experience with the install and setup?
Any photos that you can post?
How was your experience with the install and setup?
Any photos that you can post?
No pictures. I read a lot in forums about the dish and motor. It was easier to assemble than the Geosat 90cm. I was struck by how big it is in comparison. It looks almost twice the size. I had to wrestle with it much more than the smaller dish. The Stab's shaft is barely 2". Someone had posted about making a lengthwise cut on a short piece of 2" Schedule 40 to slide over the motor shaft so I did that. I set the motor scale to my latitude and got the dish elevation from Stab's website. Tracked 45W-125W perfectly. I have a mast next to my house that rises a few feet above a single-story roof edge. My antenna for OTA is on another mast that fastens to the satellite mast. I had a motorized 90cm that i changed for the 1.2m setup. Because of the bigger dish and upward shaft I had to remove the OTA antenna and mast. I only had it up for two days and received many complaints about the loss of some OTA reception. I put back the 90cm and OTA antenna to reduce earburn. The 1.2 is now fixed on an undersized pipe pretending to be a C-Band dish. I have to plant a bigger diameter pipe and then I will motorize it again.
Sheesh... I'm a patient person, but... Those Canadians are a bit too relaxed.. He waited like 3 days before shipping the HH120 and I'm not gonna get it until next week! I'm supposed to get the 1.2 dish today.
Mount the 1.2 as a fixed dish for a week, that way you get to play with it. 
When you receive the motor:
Take time to be sure that the HH120 motor and the 1.2M dish are perfectly aligned. Since the 1.2M mounts with U-bolts and no bolt passes through the motor tube, it would be easy to not have the dish perfectly aligned with the motor shaft. This would make tracking the arc nearly impossible. Use 4 -6" of adhesive backed stair tread strip (1" width is fine) and place on the 1.2M mount pole alignment ridges. This will add friction to the clamping and minimize the chance of the dish accidently rotating on the motor tube.
Mount the dish onto the motor and lightly tighten the U-bolts. Drive the STAB motor to the "0" (zero) default position, then take measurements from the left side of the dish back to the left side of the bracket and repeat on the opposite side using the corresponding measurement points. Slightly rotate the dish on the STAB HH120 tube and make sure that the measurements are exactly the same on both sides. Tighten the U-bolts and check to be sure the alignment is still good.
Take time to be sure that the HH120 motor and the 1.2M dish are perfectly aligned. Since the 1.2M mounts with U-bolts and no bolt passes through the motor tube, it would be easy to not have the dish perfectly aligned with the motor shaft. This would make tracking the arc nearly impossible. Use 4 -6" of adhesive backed stair tread strip (1" width is fine) and place on the 1.2M mount pole alignment ridges. This will add friction to the clamping and minimize the chance of the dish accidently rotating on the motor tube.
Mount the dish onto the motor and lightly tighten the U-bolts. Drive the STAB motor to the "0" (zero) default position, then take measurements from the left side of the dish back to the left side of the bracket and repeat on the opposite side using the corresponding measurement points. Slightly rotate the dish on the STAB HH120 tube and make sure that the measurements are exactly the same on both sides. Tighten the U-bolts and check to be sure the alignment is still good.
Got the dish today. Wow, people before aren't kidding. It is bigger than expected. Now, i have to wait patiently for the HH120. I will take my time getting this installed.
Very wise choice!
Take a couple of pictures of your completed set-up, when you are done.
Thought you might get a kick out of the manual for your STAB HH120.
Note the statement to the right of the word ENGLISH on left margin. Not sure how they enforce that one...
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Note the statement to the right of the word ENGLISH on left margin. Not sure how they enforce that one...
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It's killing me having this big sucker in my bedroom waiting for the HH120. Ugh....
Ps. I have done some more deeper searching on my situation. It appears the DVBS transponders are the most I cannot seem to grab with my current dented 1 meter dish. Examples, None of the PBS channels, No Cozi TV, no BYU tv.
Does someone have a link to the software i need to download to modify the satellites on my Amiko SE HD? Are the files automatically saved on the SD card of the receiver, or is there something i need to do to get it off the receiver onto the card.
Ps. I have done some more deeper searching on my situation. It appears the DVBS transponders are the most I cannot seem to grab with my current dented 1 meter dish. Examples, None of the PBS channels, No Cozi TV, no BYU tv.
Does someone have a link to the software i need to download to modify the satellites on my Amiko SE HD? Are the files automatically saved on the SD card of the receiver, or is there something i need to do to get it off the receiver onto the card.
Be patient. They are still feeding the dog sled team. Aww July and August in Canada, 2 months of poor sking.
Tracking shows : "Out for Delivery" - Now comes the installing and tweaking. I will take pictures and post.
One thing you might want to do when it arrives:
I installed an HH120 last winter (in Canada) and after two weeks, the alloy casing of the unit was showing discolouration - the start of surface corrosion, I guessed. The HH120 does not have a painted finish like the HH90 (which I also have), so - as I like my gear to look new and shiny for as long as possible - I sprayed it with a coat of clear UV-resistant lacquer.
Another difference between the HH120 and the HH90 is that it moves much slower than the smaller motor - 0.7 degrees per second on 18v IIRC - so you have to develop some extra patience!
I installed an HH120 last winter (in Canada) and after two weeks, the alloy casing of the unit was showing discolouration - the start of surface corrosion, I guessed. The HH120 does not have a painted finish like the HH90 (which I also have), so - as I like my gear to look new and shiny for as long as possible - I sprayed it with a coat of clear UV-resistant lacquer.
Another difference between the HH120 and the HH90 is that it moves much slower than the smaller motor - 0.7 degrees per second on 18v IIRC - so you have to develop some extra patience!
Good to know on both fronts.. Thank you... Wow, that is pretty slow. So, to go from one side of the arc to the other will take a couple minutes. Well, ill be okay with that as long as I get some good reception with the 1.2 meter dish and motor.
Okay, i assembled everything. Tomorrow i will pop on the HH120 and slip the dish on it.
Question about the GeoSatPro 1.2 - It seems like putting those three bars on to hold the LNB is a bit sketchy. Does it tight down and align pretty good to where it should, or should i be doing some checks on that. (Which, i wouldn't know where to begin with that?)
Question about the GeoSatPro 1.2 - It seems like putting those three bars on to hold the LNB is a bit sketchy. Does it tight down and align pretty good to where it should, or should i be doing some checks on that. (Which, i wouldn't know where to begin with that?)
It took me almost a month to get mine lined up. I now have 19 satellites I use. A few more I pickup with nothing to see. I was mad when I twisted the dish and told myself I give up and went in the house. I turned on the receiver and it was picking up 97w. I went to 95 next and everything came in better than my stationary dish. Keep on going
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I see that you've attached the side struts at the LNBF holder. That is the way it is shown in the diagram. I've seen them attached in the lower position also. I tried it briefly in both places. I didn't note a difference after adjusting the dish elevation slightly. I just left them on the lower position to allow for easier LNBF holder swaps and because Titanium has pictures on Facebook of his C1-PLL C-Band PLL LNBF and CS1 Conical Scalar on a 1.2m using the lower hole. I am curious about the purpose for the lower hole if it isn't for the struts.
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