New Software Release 1/13

[dishdude]

Don't tell tsunami2311, but I get all of the Dish programming and equipment I want or need for only $15 per month.
(Locals Only core package for $15, with a ViP222k hooked up to two TV's with no monthly fee.)

What made you decide on a 222k over a Wally?

 

[dishdude]

I have the 2 Wallys and the Flex Pack with 2 add-ons. That's all I need. Here's what I don't understand, you have 4 pieces of higher priced hardware and the 250 package along with all those add-ons plus the gold protection and you don't understand why your bill is so high? Seems fairly evident to me.

I agree, Wally and Flex Pack are where it's at. My bill is less than YTTV and most other streaming services.

 

[pattykay]

What made you decide on a 222k over a Wally?

The 222k serves two TV's with independent viewing, for no monthly fee. Yes, one of those outputs is standard-def only, but so is one of my TV's. So, this works perfect for me. I would probably still be using a Wally along with the 222k, if it hadn't been for an issue with my account that deactivates DVR functionality on all Hopper-interface equipment. This happens whenever I activate one of those receivers (Wally, or Hopper Duo and Joey 3) on the same account as the 222k. Like I said, I love the 222k, so dropping that is not an option. The phrase "cold dead hands" comes to mind. I can still activate my ViP211k whenever I want, and use its DVR functionality with the external hard drive. Since Dish cannot seem to get this to work properly with any Wally (I have tried more than one) on my account while I still have the 222k, I will just stick with the ViP211k for that. Even then, though, I usually keep the ViP211k deactivated, to eliminate the additional receiver fee.

 

[navychop]

My father died of a heart attack while stocking grocery shelves in a retirement job.

Admittedly, he couldn’t do anything involving electronics. He was a CPA.

 

[olds403]

Forced the update on my Hopper3 today. My EHD's disappeared. I had to chat with Dish on their site and have them send another authorization for them to show up again. Weird.

 

[FurryE38]

I've used VLANs in routers that could do it. That worked great without any special setup. Surprisingly it was Centurylinks' rejigged FW for their supplied routers. Now I'm doing Out of Range IPAs and IPA Reservations. I have Gigabit Fiber with PPPoE and I think it would take 3 routers to do what suggest, since the ONT is a dumb converter. I'm in the process of going Fiber Direct Ubiquiti. Been waiting on their new gear to come out and then I can do all kinds of killer things. Even though my current WiFi6 Mesh system is great.

I pulled the 2 Solo Hubs the Training Tech installed when they installed the two H3s and replaced them with a Duo ($9 from Walmart) and cleaned up all that long ago. There should be pictures lying around here someplace.

Sorry to be late to the party, however I thought I would give my experiences as well in regards to this.

I've had my H3 using the TOP RJ45 port since 2015.

After a short period of time with using a non managed 24 port home LAN switch, and since I fiddle around with routers and such which other home users complained about, I changed the Switch configuration around a bit and put my H3 and two Joeys on there own separate switch segment behind the host router. So there connection won't be interrupted by anything I do on the main home switch network. Of course, if I do something at the host router level, then I do this when everyone is in bed or out of the house.
So the Hopper system is connected to a non managed Netgear GS108 coming of the back of the host router. I have another two lines that runs from this 108 switch to the master bedroom were 1 Joey is and then a 2nd line from the 108 switch to the living room down stairs that services the Joey in the living room. There is a Netgear GS 105 switch at these to locations for the Joeys to connect to and other wired devices when needed.

I have had this configuration for over the past few years and haven't seen any problems with it.

Anytime I change out the host router I do power cycle the H3 and Joeys to ensure they get good IP addressing and avoid any IP address collisions.

I've also tested D-Link and HP Procurve branded switches as well.

Other then that, this configuration works and works well.

 

[SandFarmer]

Sorry to be late to the party, however I thought I would give my experiences as well in regards to this.

I've had my H3 using the TOP RJ45 port since 2015.

After a short period of time with using a non managed 24 port home LAN switch, and since I fiddle around with routers and such which other home users complained about, I changed the Switch configuration around a bit and put my H3 and two Joeys on there own separate switch segment behind the host router. So there connection won't be interrupted by anything I do on the main home switch network. Of course, if I do something at the host router level, then I do this when everyone is in bed or out of the house.
So the Hopper system is connected to a non managed Netgear GS108 coming of the back of the host router. I have another two lines that runs from this 108 switch to the master bedroom were 1 Joey is and then a 2nd line from the 108 switch to the living room down stairs that services the Joey in the living room. There is a Netgear GS 105 switch at these to locations for the Joeys to connect to and other wired devices when needed.

I have had this configuration for over the past few years and haven't seen any problems with it.

Anytime I change out the host router I do power cycle the H3 and Joeys to ensure they get good IP addressing and avoid any IP address collisions.

I've also tested D-Link and HP Procurve branded switches as well.

Other then that, this configuration works and works well.

I can do the same with the software in the Centurylink C3000Z Router and while I had it that way everything was calm, quiet and operational. Right now I have the one H3 connected with both the lower RJ45 and WiFi. The second H3 is all MoCA. When I check the connections on the first H3, the lower jack is good, MoCA good, upper jack not operational and the WiFi connected but not being used. Sometimes the connections that are not connected to the Internet or are not in use often disappear.

So far things have stabilized and the MoCA indicator has not budged in a couple of days. I have Internet and communication between the two H3s. We'll just have to see how long it lasts.

Sent from my SM-T290 using Tapatalk

 

[FurryE38]

I can do the same with the software in the Centurylink C3000Z Router and while I had it that way everything was calm, quiet and operational. Right now I have the one H3 connected with both the lower RJ45 and WiFi. The second H3 is all MoCA. When I check the connections on the first H3, the lower jack is good, MoCA good, upper jack not operational and the WiFi connected but not being used. Sometimes the connections that are not connected to the Internet or are not in use often disappear.

So far things have stabilized and the MoCA indicator has not budged in a couple of days. I have Internet and communication between the two H3s. We'll just have to see how long it lasts.

Sent from my SM-T290 using Tapatalk

I only have 1 H3.

 

[erichilton1987]

I apologize if this has been answered. I saw someone else ask but never a reply.
What exactly does guide update do? In what scenario would this feature be helpful to someone?
Thanks.

 

[TheKrell]

I apologize if this has been answered. I saw someone else ask but never a reply.
What exactly does guide update do? In what scenario would this feature be helpful to someone?

In any scenario where you suspect the guide may be out of date or missing info. One example that springs to mind: adding an OTA adapter and scanning in your locals. IIRC you won't see any guide information until the H3 gets around to it, e.g. at the wee-hour reboot.

 

[HipKat]

There was an update to the USB Drives we use to upload software now, yesterday, so I presume there's another Software update coming. I'll let you know if they post anything