bhodge10-
Taking it down off of vivid may seem at first as though you're "softening" the picture, but if you follow the recommendations and make the setting changes what you'll eventually discover is that it's more realistic representation on screen. I can't even WATCH my Panny on vivid at night. IT LIGHTS UP MY FRONT YARD! heheheh.
And Jim5506 is correct. You are shortening the life of your screen by leaving it on "torch mode" (vivid). Manufacturers ship them that way because the screens "pop" when viewed in a showroom with lots of other screens. Your eye is naturally drawn to the ones that look brightest. But it's not how you want to keep it set up.
Also keep in mind that the settings you are seeing on a web site after an ICF calibration are only the ones you can access from user setup screens. A professional calibration goes deeper into places you can not access (and SHOULD NOT access unless you REALLY know what you're doing), but the settings you CAN access do a nice job.
Taking it down off of vivid may seem at first as though you're "softening" the picture, but if you follow the recommendations and make the setting changes what you'll eventually discover is that it's more realistic representation on screen. I can't even WATCH my Panny on vivid at night. IT LIGHTS UP MY FRONT YARD! heheheh.
And Jim5506 is correct. You are shortening the life of your screen by leaving it on "torch mode" (vivid). Manufacturers ship them that way because the screens "pop" when viewed in a showroom with lots of other screens. Your eye is naturally drawn to the ones that look brightest. But it's not how you want to keep it set up.
Also keep in mind that the settings you are seeing on a web site after an ICF calibration are only the ones you can access from user setup screens. A professional calibration goes deeper into places you can not access (and SHOULD NOT access unless you REALLY know what you're doing), but the settings you CAN access do a nice job.