New C-Band Installation

[stecle]

I am adding a another 10 foot dish to the farm so I thought I would take a few pictures of the installation. Hopefully this will be of some help to those installing a dish for the first time.
When I first started installing dishes many years ago, I simply dug a hole, stuck in the pipe and poured in some concrete like all the other dealers.

Then a customer in the sign business, showed me a much better way. I began using a base plate and threaded rod method. I feel this method has many advantages over pipe in concrete.

1) You get more concrete in the hole.
2) You can adjust the plumb at any time
3) There is no concern about keeping a pipe plumb while you pour the cement and wait for it to cure.
4) It is much easier to work with a 5 foot pipe that an 11 foot pipe.
5) The pipe can be easily removed.

I live in a very cold climate here in Canada where the frost can reach 6 feet in extreme winters. The threaded rod/rebar cage I built was 7 feet long from tip to tip. The hole was also approximately 7 feet and 12 inches square. I used 3/4 threaded rod and have never had a problem. I don't remember the rebar size, but it is not that critical anyway.

I always weld the rebar to the threaded rod with the rods firmly bolted to the plate. Simply put, build your threaded rod/rebar cage around your base plate. Not the other way around. You will notice that I weld 2 cross braces to the threaded rod, which will help keep the rods aligned to the holes in the base plate. It is very easy to bend the threaded rod/rebar cage in transportation and the pouring of the concrete. I skipped this step on my first one and paid for it by having a plate that wouldn't fit on the rods that were already cemented in.

NEXT UP: Pouring the concrete.

 

[cyberham]

Where I plan to move, it would be impossible to dig a 7-foot hole. How about a technique for attaching such a plate to solid granite bedrock?

 

[AZ.]

Where I plan to move, it would be impossible to dig a 7-foot hole. How about a technique for attaching such a plate to solid granite bedrock?

That is easy, get to the rock, use a hammer drill, drill into the rock and make sure its a snug fit for the rebar into the rock( hammer it in or tap it in the drilled hole).....The bolts dont need to be welded just a few feet long and a 90 or a hook a few inches long on the end that goes into the concrete...Same way you would install a light pole!3/4 x 30 x 3 Inch Galvanized Steel Anchor Bolt Set For Anchor Base Light Poles

 

[FTA4PA]

Where I plan to move, it would be impossible to dig a 7-foot hole. How about a technique for attaching such a plate to solid granite bedrock?

Here's another option which may work. YMMV.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Red-Head-25-Pack-5-1-2-in-x-1-2-in-Wedge-Anchors/1000775784

These are made for concrete but might work for granite as well. They are also available in 5/8" and 3/4" but the 1/2" is all Lowes had in stock at the time. Back in 2014 I used the 1/2" x 5 1/2" anchors to install my 8ft mesh dish onto an old concrete slab where a shed used to be and it is still solid to this day.

The mount for that dish had a small metal plate attached to the pole with three support rods. Because of the way it was designed I leveled it with washers at the time. Having learned a bit since then I would try to use the following setup now. Drill holes in base (concrete, granite, etc), tap in anchors, fasten a steel plate with threaded mounting rods (for the dish mount plate), install dish mounting plate, level and tighten it down.

 

[ZetaMale]

Where I plan to move, it would be impossible to dig a 7-foot hole. How about a technique for attaching such a plate to solid granite bedrock?

Dynamite.....

 

[ZetaMale]

I used fiberglass infused concrete with my KTI in addition to threaded L-rods (custom made), and a 5 foot deep hole. Been working great for over 10 years.

 

[cyberham]

Here's another option which may work. YMMV.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Red-Head-25-Pack-5-1-2-in-x-1-2-in-Wedge-Anchors/1000775784

This is elegant.

 

[Radioguy41]

I am adding a another 10 foot dish to the farm so I thought I would take a few pictures of the installation. Hopefully this will be of some help to those installing a dish for the first time.
When I first started installing dishes many years ago, I simply dug a hole, stuck in the pipe and poured in some concrete like all the other dealers.

Then a customer in the sign business, showed me a much better way. I began using a base plate and threaded rod method. I feel this method has many advantages over pipe in concrete.

1) You get more concrete in the hole.
2) You can adjust the plumb at any time
3) There is no concern about keeping a pipe plumb while you pour the cement and wait for it to cure.
4) It is much easier to work with a 5 foot pipe that an 11 foot pipe.
5) The pipe can be easily removed.

I live in a very cold climate here in Canada where the frost can reach 6 feet in extreme winters. The threaded rod/rebar cage I built was 7 feet long from tip to tip. The hole was also approximately 7 feet and 12 inches square. I used 3/4 threaded rod and have never had a problem. I don't remember the rebar size, but it is not that critical anyway.

I always weld the rebar to the threaded rod with the rods firmly bolted to the plate. Simply put, build your threaded rod/rebar cage around your base plate. Not the other way around. You will notice that I weld 2 cross braces to the threaded rod, which will help keep the rods aligned to the holes in the base plate. It is very easy to bend the threaded rod/rebar cage in transportation and the pouring of the concrete. I skipped this step on my first one and paid for it by having a plate that wouldn't fit on the rods that were already cemented in.

NEXT UP: Pouring the concrete.

If I may make a suggestion, 3 rather than 4 bolts will make it much easier to adjust if necessary.

 

[Comptech]

Hehe, solid granite here, so I dug as far as I could witch was about two feet, then got the hammer drill out and a pick axe made it to four foot and dish has been fine for 3 plus years now.

 

[Comptech]

Between the granite and the hard clay the 10 footer is going no where. I also drilled a hole through the mount and pole and put a quarter inch aluminum rivet in it. The mount bolts are just snug, not hammered down, so the dish will spin if needed. But last years tropical storm with 90 MPH gusts never moved it. Also my pole is cut at a 45 degree and at the bottom, the drilled through with a 3/8's x 5 inch bolt inserted were the concrete was poured into the hole.

 

[stecle]

If I may make a suggestion, 3 rather than 4 bolts will make it much easier to adjust if necessary.

View attachment 154850

I have observed that most big signs and street lights use a base of 4 rods or more. I guess I would have a concern of the pipe being less stable using 3 rods instead of 4. I have never had difficulty getting a pipe plumb with 4 rods.

 

[stecle]

Pouring the concrete

I built a form using some scrap 2 X 4's to make a nice clean job. If you want to spend the money a sonotube is the easiest way to go. I am attaching this pipe to a structure so I didn't install any conduit.

I like to have the concrete pile above the grade to keep water from pooling on top and it makes it easier to adjust the nuts. I covered the nuts and threads with some masking tape to keep them clean while pouring the concrete.

I have a quarry nearby so I picked up a 1/2 yard of cement gravel. I used about 1 and a half bags of Portland cement for the job. You can also use the "just add water" concrete mix, however it will cost you 2 to 3 times more. I would strongly recommend using a cement mixer. It will make your job much easier and do a better job mixing the concrete.

NEXT UP: Preparing the pipe

 

[Melvinfta]

Pouring the concrete

I built a form using some scrap 2 X 4's to make a nice clean job. If you want to spend the money a sonotube is the easiest way to go. I am attaching this pipe to a structure so I didn't install any conduit.

I like to have the concrete pile above the grade to keep water from pooling on top and it makes it easier to adjust the nuts. I covered the nuts and threads with some masking tape to keep them clean while pouring the concrete.

I have a quarry nearby so I picked up a 1/2 yard of cement gravel. I used about 1 and a half bags of Portland cement for the job. You can also use the "just add water" concrete mix, however it will cost you 2 to 3 times more. I would strongly recommend using a cement mixer. It will make your job much easier and do a better job mixing the concrete.

NEXT UP: Preparing the pipe

Pretty clean job thanks for sharing!!!!

 

[stecle]

I got busy with summer and forgot to finish this thread. lol

Preparing the pipe

I had this pipe in storage for years. As you can see it is a 4 1/2 OD. I like to use 4 1/2 OD because it gives less flex than the 3 1/2 OD. Most 10 foot dishes (especially mesh) will require a 3 1/2 OD pipe. If you use a 4 1/2 OD you can simply weld a short piece of 3 1/2 OD pipe to the top. Use a minimum of schedule 40 pipe.

By driving around, you can easily find old C-band dishes with reusable pipes. A reciprocating saw with a new #18 TPI blade will cut a 3 1/2 OD pipe in about 3-5 minutes. If you buy new steel, be prepared to bring lots of money. I can't believe the price of steel these days!

I used a drill with a wire brush to remove any loose rust and paint. The next step is to de-grease the pipe so that the primer and paint will adhere properly. I have always used simple dish soap but I am sure there are professional de-greasers available. I rinsed the pipe with a power washer, but a garden hose and a clean rag would also work. Just make sure you remove all the soap/de-greaser.

I give the pipe 2 coats of red oxide primer and then 2 coats of flat black.

NEXT UP: The final result

 

[stecle]

The finished product!

 

[Radioguy41]

I have observed that most big signs and street lights use a base of 4 rods or more. I guess I would have a concern of the pipe being less stable using 3 rods instead of 4. I have never had difficulty getting a pipe plumb with 4 rods.

I have 3 of those NOS commercial C-band mounts from the 1990's and all 3 use 3 bolts. My C-band has been in place for 19 years and has not shifted one iota (and it's endured some hurricane force winds) but if you feel more comfortable with 4 bolts by all means do it. The relavent factor is how well the bolts are anchored be it 3 or 4.

 

[ZetaMale]

I have observed that most big signs and street lights use a base of 4 rods or more. I guess I would have a concern of the pipe being less stable using 3 rods instead of 4. I have never had difficulty getting a pipe plumb with 4 rods.

Both of my 12 foot C-band dishes use 3 L-rods. Work just fine.