Mysterious WIFI router problem.
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It had a Winking Smiley at the end. That's why I didn't take the bait... 
I just saw a video review for the Starry Station triangular router with a touchscreen. When not acting as the router's control interface, it shows bubbles representing your wireless clients floating around the screen, the size of each bubble is determined by the amount of WiFi traffic its using. https://starry.com/station
Sorry, Don, not trying to make you spend money. So, has your 2.4 GHz WiFi stuck around for the week?
I just saw a video review for the Starry Station triangular router with a touchscreen. When not acting as the router's control interface, it shows bubbles representing your wireless clients floating around the screen, the size of each bubble is determined by the amount of WiFi traffic its using. https://starry.com/station
Sorry, Don, not trying to make you spend money. So, has your 2.4 GHz WiFi stuck around for the week?
I'm sitting here looking at a Netgear R9000 that doesn't have the passive fan inside like the consumer version will have if you buy one right now.
Also, when I used the R8500, the thing didn't do MU-MIMO for the first 7 months it was in use (not public, but in use). Just before they launched, it finally got MU-MIMO in a firmware update...which was tried about a month prior to launch.
In the debug.html screens of the R9000, I have fan controls, but they are ~null because there's no fans to control..
Atleast they figured out that it needed cooling after we helped them discover it ran hot when the AD radio is in use. I personally don't have an wifi AD products, 60ghz channel is like...gotta be in nearly the same room to hit those advertised 7200 speeds.
Guess what? Since doing the hard reset and reconfiguring everything. The router has been working flawlessly. Now this morning, I went to print a form on my 2.4Ghz printer and it would not connect. Checked my iphone and it would not connect on 2.4Ghz. Same exact problem as I had before. So I just did a refresh to the Password and now it's working again. If it fails tomorrow or the next day, I guess it's time to do another hard reset and reconfigure everything all over again.
I have two devices that are running off of 2.4Ghz.
My Laser Printer and my Qardio scales.
I can put the laser Printer on ethernet but need to feed a cable from the nearest switch to the printer which is just a PIA but can do with about an hour's work. The scales is more of a problem since it can only work on 2.4Ghz.
Is it possible to add a low cost wifi 2.4Ghz router off my current ethernet switch and then just shut down the wifi 2.4Ghz circuit in the Linksys? There is a way to do that in the wifi setup screen. Since the 5Ghz works fine and the ethernet is fine, the whole house could continue on 5Ghz for iphones and ipads, leaving everything else on ethernet.
I have two devices that are running off of 2.4Ghz.
My Laser Printer and my Qardio scales.
I can put the laser Printer on ethernet but need to feed a cable from the nearest switch to the printer which is just a PIA but can do with about an hour's work. The scales is more of a problem since it can only work on 2.4Ghz.
Is it possible to add a low cost wifi 2.4Ghz router off my current ethernet switch and then just shut down the wifi 2.4Ghz circuit in the Linksys? There is a way to do that in the wifi setup screen. Since the 5Ghz works fine and the ethernet is fine, the whole house could continue on 5Ghz for iphones and ipads, leaving everything else on ethernet.
Yes. In Advanced settings there is an option to turn off the wireless radios. You can turn off both, or just turn off the 2.4 or 5. But the option does exist.
Thanks but I knew that about shutting off the different radios. I was more curious if the wifi router can be plugged into my ethernet switch that hangs off my Linksys Router. Anyway, I went ahead and ordered a Netgear 2.4Ghz wifi unit for $20. So I should know in a couple days if this will solve the problem.
I did some reading while shopping and it seems my experience with losing wifi and needing a hard reset is more common than I thought. It seems to happen with all these consumer level wifi routers.
The only reason I went with Netgear is because it had WPA2 level security. The other cheap one was only WEP security. For this application I don't need really high speed either.
I did some reading while shopping and it seems my experience with losing wifi and needing a hard reset is more common than I thought. It seems to happen with all these consumer level wifi routers.
The only reason I went with Netgear is because it had WPA2 level security. The other cheap one was only WEP security. For this application I don't need really high speed either.
You should look into ubiquiti then. Same price, but great coverage.
I personally like Netgear, but I also like Ubiquiti.
Do I have a Netgear R9000 sitting here? Yep.
Do I also have a Netgear R8500 in my second DSL line, coupled with a Netgear D6220 V2 using the modem side, with the R8500 doing PPPoE for me....yep.
And I have a Netgear D6000, a TP-Link Archer C3200, and a Linksys something or the other. Then I have some repeaters and powerline adapters, and some powerline adapters with wifi built-in..
Netgear has a very nice repeater in the EX6150v2. But also, TP-Link has a nice repeater in the RE650.
I've been lucky in my endeavors to acquire the above mentioned devices and really like them all. I recommend each one of them and never had any trouble with the stuff I listed.
One of the best products I've had was a pair of Netgear powerline adapters...something like the
XAVB5602
I'd have to actually go look and see which model number it is, but it's a Netgear Av500...those things ran like a champ for over 2 years without me touching them. Never needed a "reboot" or to even be touched...
I just plugged them in and left them. I got a smart tv back in 2013 and needed a hard-line internet to that tv since it didn't have wifi built in..and lucky for me, the option to use Netgear AV500 powerline came up without me struggling too much..so I chose that. I plugged it in, ran it's setup..and finally, 3 years later I moved the DSL line to another room.. and finally decided I could retire the AV500 pair for the time being.
If you want something that you won't have to worry with for extremely long periods, then try a non-wifi powerline adapter...especially something like the netgear with a pass-thru port for power so you can still use the plug and not lose it's outlet...
Very little energy draw...not much heat generation..and they don't need to be checked on constantly to be sure they work.
Half the time I never noticed my powerline setup..and never had any problems with it working with other devices.
I even got to a point where I plugged a router into the client Powerline adapter and used 3 of the 4 ports on the router, plus the 2 ports on the PLA (tho it was equipped with 3 ports).
Since Linksys was bought by belkin, I haven't had much of their products to play with...except the Wemo lights. I do like those, but haven't really touched anything belkin in a long time (or linksys either).
Mostly I play with some new Netgear stuff from time to time (4-5 times a year or so)..and every now and then, a TP-Link thrown in..
It's usually stuff I can't talk about until waaaay after it's been launched, but I'll gladly recommend some products if you have any questions about hardware.
I personally like Netgear, but I also like Ubiquiti.
Do I have a Netgear R9000 sitting here? Yep.
Do I also have a Netgear R8500 in my second DSL line, coupled with a Netgear D6220 V2 using the modem side, with the R8500 doing PPPoE for me....yep.
And I have a Netgear D6000, a TP-Link Archer C3200, and a Linksys something or the other. Then I have some repeaters and powerline adapters, and some powerline adapters with wifi built-in..
Netgear has a very nice repeater in the EX6150v2. But also, TP-Link has a nice repeater in the RE650.
I've been lucky in my endeavors to acquire the above mentioned devices and really like them all. I recommend each one of them and never had any trouble with the stuff I listed.
One of the best products I've had was a pair of Netgear powerline adapters...something like the
XAVB5602
I'd have to actually go look and see which model number it is, but it's a Netgear Av500...those things ran like a champ for over 2 years without me touching them. Never needed a "reboot" or to even be touched...
I just plugged them in and left them. I got a smart tv back in 2013 and needed a hard-line internet to that tv since it didn't have wifi built in..and lucky for me, the option to use Netgear AV500 powerline came up without me struggling too much..so I chose that. I plugged it in, ran it's setup..and finally, 3 years later I moved the DSL line to another room.. and finally decided I could retire the AV500 pair for the time being.
If you want something that you won't have to worry with for extremely long periods, then try a non-wifi powerline adapter...especially something like the netgear with a pass-thru port for power so you can still use the plug and not lose it's outlet...
Very little energy draw...not much heat generation..and they don't need to be checked on constantly to be sure they work.
Half the time I never noticed my powerline setup..and never had any problems with it working with other devices.
I even got to a point where I plugged a router into the client Powerline adapter and used 3 of the 4 ports on the router, plus the 2 ports on the PLA (tho it was equipped with 3 ports).
Since Linksys was bought by belkin, I haven't had much of their products to play with...except the Wemo lights. I do like those, but haven't really touched anything belkin in a long time (or linksys either).
Mostly I play with some new Netgear stuff from time to time (4-5 times a year or so)..and every now and then, a TP-Link thrown in..
It's usually stuff I can't talk about until waaaay after it's been launched, but I'll gladly recommend some products if you have any questions about hardware.
I ordered the NETGEAR Wireless Router (WNR1000-100NAS (G54/N150)) from Amazon to be delivered on Thursday. I will then disable the 2.4Ghz radio on the Linksys WAC1900 and then connect the Netgear to an open port on the Net Gear 24 port Switch. Then, hopefully it configures a good wifi signal to my bathroom where I have the Qardio scales and the next room over where my Laser Printer is located. If I get those two devices working the other stuff can remain on the 5Ghz from the Linksys which has excellent coverage throughout the house and back yard. Since I will essentially have two routers working, I should probably exclude the two IP addresses on the Netgear from assigning on the Linksys.
I would set the new netgear up as 192.168.10.1 so that the DHCP pool starts with 192.168.10.2 up to 192.168.10.254.
Assuming your current Linksys is set to 192.168.1.1 and DHCP pools has 192.168.1.2 up to 192.168.1.254 ...
If you leave the netgear alone, it'll be the same as the linksys most likely, and you might have conflicting IP addresses.
All you gotta do is change the netgear from DHCP to static ..see the following.
This is a TPLINK that's connected to my 192.168.1.1 netgear...and I chose 1.9 for the IP address, while using 0.1 as the DHCP pool for this router. Your netgear should be similar to this:
Assuming your current Linksys is set to 192.168.1.1 and DHCP pools has 192.168.1.2 up to 192.168.1.254 ...
If you leave the netgear alone, it'll be the same as the linksys most likely, and you might have conflicting IP addresses.
All you gotta do is change the netgear from DHCP to static ..see the following.
This is a TPLINK that's connected to my 192.168.1.1 netgear...and I chose 1.9 for the IP address, while using 0.1 as the DHCP pool for this router. Your netgear should be similar to this:
This shows the IP of the router and DHCP pool..
This shows the entire setup of TPLink router (the IP from the netgear is 1.9, and the DHCP and such is 0.1 thru 0.200.
This shows the entire setup of TPLink router (the IP from the netgear is 1.9, and the DHCP and such is 0.1 thru 0.200.
In Netgear, the DHCP and IP selection screen for your new router should look like this...same as mine.. except you want to change from 192.168.1.1 to 192.168.10.1. Would probably just be easier to do that than to do it another way -- which is possible also.. Just my recommendation if you want to rule out any future conflicts that may arise:
I am using the ASUS RT-AC66U (running ASUS-WRT-Merlin) and it is rock solid. It looks very similar to the Synology model referenced above.
Amazon product ASIN B008ABOJKS
Amazon product ASIN B008ABOJKS
It appears the 2.4Ghz radio continues to fail but is lasting longer now with the hard reset. So, after the second time I did install the Netgear router for 2.4Ghz. Got it working and while it seemed to be holding up, the signal strength just wasn't strong enough to reach reliably. So I relocated it closer off a remote switch. Still the signal was jut too weak to reach my printer. Sometimes it would connect and sometimes not. Glad I didn't pay much for it.
So, I decided to go to my backup plan and hard wired the Printer to my LAN with a fixed IP. A little bit of work feeding the cable but now that is done. Been working great, as it should! As for my Qardio scales, the only other 2.4Ghz device I have, I'll just reset the Linksys PW when I need to. One thing is certain, the Linksys wifi signal is very strong all over the house when it works which has been running about 7-8 days now. Everything else is on the 5Ghz channel.
So, I decided to go to my backup plan and hard wired the Printer to my LAN with a fixed IP. A little bit of work feeding the cable but now that is done. Been working great, as it should! As for my Qardio scales, the only other 2.4Ghz device I have, I'll just reset the Linksys PW when I need to. One thing is certain, the Linksys wifi signal is very strong all over the house when it works which has been running about 7-8 days now. Everything else is on the 5Ghz channel.
I'm very adamant about my devices working properly... If I had that issue, I'd be replacing a router, faster than you could say "amazon prime"...with paid 1-day shipping.
I luckily have a few stashed for hard times ..and even have another on the way this week (It was announced at CES ..but it isn't available to purchase yet)..
Lately I've been thinking about repurposing a couple of routers that are older, like a Linksys E8350 I have stored. I also have Netgear R8500 and Netgear R9000, but I don't want to start using such as DDWRT on those just yet. I'll wait until they are sub-$200 before I do any of that..
I luckily have a few stashed for hard times ..and even have another on the way this week (It was announced at CES ..but it isn't available to purchase yet)..
Lately I've been thinking about repurposing a couple of routers that are older, like a Linksys E8350 I have stored. I also have Netgear R8500 and Netgear R9000, but I don't want to start using such as DDWRT on those just yet. I'll wait until they are sub-$200 before I do any of that..
I understand. I'm almost that way with cameras. 
I got tired of poor coverages in the house so I decided to go buy one of the better, pricier routers in this 1900. I see they are now down to $179 but I paid $250 so I'm not ready to give up on a $250 expense when the only thing wrong now is it doesn't like 2.4Ghz so since I only have one device now that requires it, I'll just continue to put up with it. I will say that cheap Netgear router was a POS for signal strength.
I wonder if there is a way I can set my iphones for a wifi priority list. If there are 2 networks I have for auto connect, I should be able to prioritize them as to which to try to connect first. Haven't found where to do that.
I got tired of poor coverages in the house so I decided to go buy one of the better, pricier routers in this 1900. I see they are now down to $179 but I paid $250 so I'm not ready to give up on a $250 expense when the only thing wrong now is it doesn't like 2.4Ghz so since I only have one device now that requires it, I'll just continue to put up with it. I will say that cheap Netgear router was a POS for signal strength. I wonder if there is a way I can set my iphones for a wifi priority list. If there are 2 networks I have for auto connect, I should be able to prioritize them as to which to try to connect first. Haven't found where to do that.
I found this article and it appears the decision is automatic and I can't override the built in priority.
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT202831
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT202831
yeah..something about the handshake/last packet received ...I've read on it, but not in depth. I do know that I have some ubiquiti stuff used for extremely long range wifi ...sharing my connection with a neighbor that cannot get internet...so i'm using a ubiquiti to "point" signal in her direction, and another ubiquiti to "receive" said signal...
The resulting SSID network that it puts out is one of the weakest inside my house (it's pointed completely away from my entire home, actually at one end)...but I notice that my phone will more often than not, connect to that weaker SSID for whatever reason.
Maybe it's the cleanest signal of them all...and it sees that...I'm not sure.
I know from time to time I have to manually connect to the network I prefer (the ubiquiti may have 1-2 bars, where my -- for instance -- Netgear R9000 will have 5 bars).
I have a lot of stuff running, and much of it is required ...two separate networks each with it's own modem, router, and devices...
So I'm sure interference is easily located in my wifi networks.
The resulting SSID network that it puts out is one of the weakest inside my house (it's pointed completely away from my entire home, actually at one end)...but I notice that my phone will more often than not, connect to that weaker SSID for whatever reason.
Maybe it's the cleanest signal of them all...and it sees that...I'm not sure.
I know from time to time I have to manually connect to the network I prefer (the ubiquiti may have 1-2 bars, where my -- for instance -- Netgear R9000 will have 5 bars).
I have a lot of stuff running, and much of it is required ...two separate networks each with it's own modem, router, and devices...
So I'm sure interference is easily located in my wifi networks.
