My truck is trashed! What options ??

[bhelms]

My wife dozed-off, slid along a guardrail for a bit, then managed to stop the truck. Fortunately, other than being shaken up a bit she is uninjured. We are both very thankful for that guardrail, without which she would have ended up in opposing traffic. (I will never again criticize PennDOT when I see them holding-up traffic for guardrail installations and maintenance !!)

But the truck is now totalled. It was a '95 S-10 (T-10?) extended cab, AWD, 4.3L Vortec with a bunch of extras. But it also had 185K miles on it and was only in fair condition with the rust finally making its way through the galvanized steel in the usual places. (The accident actually exposed a good bit more rust than I knew I had.) I had been planning to fix it up to the tune of up to $1K before this accident hoping to get a couple more years out of it and see it turn 200K. It doesn't get driven a lot anymore, mostly for carrying loads like firewood. I have had it since new and it has been reliable and maintained per the book for the most part.

Kelly BB puts its value at about $2,140 in the stated condition, pre-accident. I had $1,000 deductable collision insurance on it. That was a crap-shoot on an old vehicle, but it didn't cost a whole lot more with such a high deductible. I really didn't realize the book value had dropped that much. Last time I checked it was over $9K. Could it have been that long ago?

I'm not sure what will happen with my insurance if I claim it, and that's a big concern for me right now. I'd only get the difference anyway, $1K - 1.5K probably, so I'm thinking the rate increase that takes years to erase might easily exceed the pay-off. Besides, if I let the insurance company total it, then I assume they get the vehicle unless I buy it back.

The estimates for "reasonable" repair to almost full glory at this age will be in the $3-$4,000 range. Minimal repairs to make it just driveable will cost $1 - $1.5K and with that I could drive it for about 6 more months until the next inspection is due that it won't pass in that condition. That would get me through this coming wood cutting season anyway then I will see if anyone will give me a token for it on trade. (In these parts, any 4X4 that moves is generally worth something in the winter.)

Any similar experience? Any suggestions ??

 

[navychop]

S-10. You may have hit the top percentile in mileage on an S-10.

If you are considering buying new, I recommend avoiding Chevy Colorado. The Ford Ranger might be ok, we've had passable luck with them. Sadly, I can't recommend the Dodge Dakota- rough ride, poor mileage, but our company's experience might be atypical, and of the lot, it's the only 4x4 (well, maybe one of the Tacoma's is 4x4, I'd have to check). I know nothing of the Nissan Frontier.

But I know a lot about the Toyota Tacoma. Very highly recommended. They have proven to be reliable, have good mileage and are comfortable, compared to equivalent vehicles. It looks like they will be the winners at our company for lowest cost of ownership. Certainly for lowest cost per mile so far. We now rotate vehicles before 100,000 miles, but I suspect these could easily make 200,000. We might keep one to see. A used one is a good buy.

As far as fixing up your heap goes- will your wife be driving it? Your feelings about her? Sorry to be harsh, but you get the point.

Financially, I suspect you will be ahead to give it to the recyclers. Hard to picture getting anything on a 12 plus year old S-10. Putting in an insurance claim is your call- any other claims?

 

[Van]

Well you could replace the body panels if thats all thats trashed on it, can you still drive it down the road without it trying to zig-zag and will it stop normaly? Body panels shouldnt be to much so try looking on Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market and do a search, I'd recommend looking in the southern states and western for rust free panels. Get a Hayes manual and start unbolting and rebolting and you can save yourself all the labour charges over a weekend, if you dont want to go this route then theres always a few cans up rustoleum.

You can always part out the truck as in parts its worth alot more than a whole vehicle and will possibly fetch the BB value specialy if you list the parts online. Outside of that I would not go the route of insurance as they will total it out due to the high mileage on it but thats your call really but look at it like this, if it looked like a beater of a beater beforehand then you pretty much have your answer specialy with the fact that you were getting ready to dump a grand into it befor your wife fell asleep at the wheel.

 

[bhelms]

Tks for the reply. I'll eventually get another truck, but I doubt I'll buy new this time. The Tacoma is certainly a possibility. I have several guys here at work with the Colorados, so I'll talk to both as I am generally a GM person (except for when I buy a Subaru), but I'm open-minded. I think one guy was complaining about his, IIRC. I wasn't planning on a trade at the time so I didn't really register what he was saying.

Re: the insurance, there is no recent collision claim, but we have had had a number of comprehensive claims over the years (damn deer !!) including the aforementioned Subie to the tune of about $3K when only 6-months old. There is however a legal incident with my son that has not yet been recorded that I am fearing. I don't want to "pile on" at this point for fear that I might lose this insurance altogether even tho' I have been with this company for over 30 years.

Re: trying to "save" the S-10 for a final gasp - I guess it's the sentimental attachment, that same thing that is also "driving" me to consider bringing Mom's '94 Regal from FL, per that other thread. I'll wait to get that low-end estimate before I make my decision, but you're right, I may just junk it now. All I have to pay at this point is the tow and estimate cost...

 

[bhelms]

It really didn't look like a beater and ran well before the accident. You could see the inevitable (for this state) rust starting to come through in the wheel wells and cab corners. (I actually had one corner replaced several years ago for inspection.) Parting it out is a good idea, but that will take some time that I don't have to do it online for maximum value. I might see if someone will give me a couple hundred for it locally for parts and they can tow it. I can't do the body work myself. The front fender needs to be replaced, but the real issue is that cab corner and the whole side of the bed that probably needs to be replaced now. Before the accident I think they could cut-in a new piece over the wheel well, but now that whole side is bent up.

Whether or not it drives and stops correctly is yet to be determined. I don't think there is any problem with the frame, but the mechanic that has it said the wheel bearings might have been damaged (??) as that sometimes happens in this kind of accident.

Decisions, decisions...

 

[navychop]

You've already established that the most you could hope for it to run it until next inspection. Say goodbye, quickly. You can donate it to various organizations that will come pick it up, so you do't need to pay for a tow. They might get $50, you might get the tiny tax deduction.

My Colorado comment was based on the first year's model. Maybe they've improved since then.

 

[DWS44]

Well...I'll toss another vote of confidence for the Tacoma, if you decide to go that route. I've got a 2005 Access Cab TRD Sport 4x4 model coming up on two years now, and have been very happy with it!

 

[Bob Haller]

sounds like its a goner, if you only need to haul firewood buy a cheap trailer from harbor freight, minimal cost, 6 bucks a year registration, no insurance or inspection.

in pittsburgh theres a low cost bodyshop, who does decent work very low prices, or find a back yard mechanic.

dont turn it into insurance, did she damage the guard rail? your obligated to pay for repairs

if you have any tickets in the past 3 years, dont turn it in

my wife got a speeding ticket. then a month later bumped a trucks hitch ahead of her. 1500 damage.

if we turned the bump in on insurance we would get hit with accident surcharge.plus ticket surcharge, a 60% to 80% insurance increase

if you have car insurance with somplace that has local offices visit a office where no one will know you, and ask all the questions you want. just dont ID yourself and they cant surcharge your insurance.

good luck with recovery.

 

[Van]

Cut and run buddy, dont waste the time or the money.

At most a junkyard will give you up to $250 but you will have to do alot of homework to find the one that will.

 

[Derwin0]

The bump in premium's will easily wipe out what the insurance will give you (especially with a high deductible). Plus I highly doubt the insurance company would give you Kelly Blue Book anyway, they use a different estimator that typically comes in less, especially with that high a millage.

*note* To keep a vehicle thats been totaled, you'll have to pay the insurance company the salvage value (probably $50 on your truck), and to get it back on the road, you'll need to fix it back into a state that will pass PA safety inspection (requires a pre-fix inspection and post-fix inspection, post-fix inspection can not be the same person who does any repairs on the vehicle). Harrisburg is also slow in issuing rebuild titles. Went through this when some kid hit it and totaled my '76 D-100 pickup, would up parting it out instead of putting it back on the road (but did do the research in what I had to do, PennDOT has the info on their website).

 

[bhelms]

Good info, Derwin - Tks. So if I have any intention of putting it back on the road temporarily then I need to not total it, which obviously means not turning it in to insurance. That's pretty much what I expected. If I invest the low amount ($1K ??) that will presumably make it driveable I can still get some use out of it for another 6 months or so until the next inspection is due, but the body certainly won't pass that inspection. I have seen worse looking vehicles on the road, but I guess there's always the chance I'll be stopped. My goal is really just to be able to use it on my own property for the 6 weekends or so it takes me to get in my firewood, then be able to drive it one last time onto a lot somewhere as a token trade. If I have it longer then I might get through most of the winter with it just being used to get up and down my lane where I really need the 4x4 capability. Again, that is all off public roads.

I know I'll end up with a "new" vehicle, but I'm just not ready financially (and emotionally!) to make that move yet. I realize the $1K investment is in all liklihood not a good one, but I might easily lose that and more if I don't take my time making the right decision on a replacement. If this happened earlier in the temperate months then I would have had enough time to make a decision, but now I'm kinda rushed as the wood cutting begins in another month or so and the snow flies soon after that!

Van - I'm not ignoring your comments. You're usually right on as well. "Cut-n-run" does seem to make a lot of sense this time. I wish it was sitting on my property now so I could catch my breath, but since it's at the shop I'm being forced into a quick decision and that has me rattled a good bit. If I do junk it immediately then I am in need of an almost immediate replacement. I guess I'm looking at the $1K as buying time as much as anything...

Bob - Not ignoring you either! I'm honsetly not sure about the guardrail. I need to drive by there and check it out. She said she slid along it (the damage seems to indicate that) and they're designed for exactly that, but there may be more there and I'll need to fess-up. The firewood hauling I do is all along narrow woods roads. I'm not sure I could turn a trailer around anywhere. But even then I need a 4x4 to climb those roads and the Subie won't do that pulling a trailer. I still need a truck!

More comment is welcome...!

 

[bhelms]

Good looking truck, DWS44! It looks to me that you're using it more for looks and fun. How long is that bed? In the access cab version, do they offer a longer bed? The S-10 x-cab had only a 6.5' bed, but with the gate down you could lay a sheet of plywood flat down in it between the wheelwells and not hang over the gate. I could easily load 3/4 cord of firewood into it, 3.5 to 4 rows of 2' lengths stacked cab high. I had the high payload option, but it was still overweight and showed it. However, that was only used that way on my own property at low speeds. Any truck I own gets its fair share of work assignments...!

 

[Hall]

Based on the ~value of the truck vs the amount of damages, it's definitely "totaled" in the insurance company's eyes. If it's still drivable or the damaged parts are something you can replace yourself, do that. Do NOT file a claim in this scenario.

Do you have a good rapport with your agent ? If so, call them and ask "hypothetically" what they'd suggest. I don't think most agents want their clients to get dinged for circumstances that flag their accounts or raise their rates. In the end, the agent will get the brunt of the complaints or worse, lose the client. The company itself usually doesn't care...

 

[Derwin0]

If you only use the truck on private property, then you need never worry about safety inspections (emissions where required) or even tag registration, as though only apply to vehicles using the public roads.

btw, body damage in itself will not fail a vehicle for safety inspection. The bumpers would have to be impaired, or a fender missing for body damage to fail safety.
Here's a listing of what can fail you.
067 Pa. Code §*175.80.*Inspection procedure.

 

[DWS44]

Good looking truck, DWS44! It looks to me that you're using it more for looks and fun. How long is that bed? In the access cab version, do they offer a longer bed? The S-10 x-cab had only a 6.5' bed, but with the gate down you could lay a sheet of plywood flat down in it between the wheelwells and not hang over the gate. I could easily load 3/4 cord of firewood into it, 3.5 to 4 rows of 2' lengths stacked cab high. I had the high payload option, but it was still overweight and showed it. However, that was only used that way on my own property at low speeds. Any truck I own gets its fair share of work assignments...!

Thanks! :up You're right...It's had a few good workouts hauling some big loads, but not very often. The inside of the bed w/ the tailgate closed is just over 6', and I believe the model I have has the longest bed available. If you want to learn more about the Tacoma, this is a cool message board of Tacoma Owners: Toyota Nation - Tacoma Forum

 

[Bob Haller]

ahh in PA ANY rough edges of vehicle bodies or holes can fail you. had a customer who slid along a guard rail and got stuck. police were called, tow truck dispatched.really minor incident, except for getting stuck in mud

along came a bill from penn dot for replacing near 50 feet of guard rail supposedly damaged in accident since it scraped some coating off the rail.

I never heard how it came out, but lady was really $#@$% as that spot got hit a lot, road sloped wrong way and they wanted her to pay for all the scrapes in that area. presumably guard rails are galvanized steel, scrapes cause rust.

it was a long time ago, perhaps the rules have changed. but its something to be aware of.

if all your use is on your property then just do minimum fix, and dont take off property till you donate the hulk when it finally dies. after all your moms car will be here soon

 

[Derwin0]

ahh in PA ANY rough edges of vehicle bodies or holes can fail you.

Rough edges will fail you if they protrude from the vehicle and can likely cause damage to your tires or someone else. A sander easily fixes that.

(10) Check for protruding metal and reject if torn metal, glass or other loose or dislocated parts protrude from a surface of the vehicle so as to create a hazard.

Holes will fail you if they go into the passenger compartment and allow exhaust fumes to enter.

(ii) The floor pan is rusted through so as to cause hazard to occupants or to permit exhaust gases to enter passenger compartment.

Remember, it's a safety inspection, not beauty inspection. That's why the state issues an exact checklist (with examples), because in the past mechanics would fail a vehicle in order to get more work.
I once had a guy try to fail me for my brakes. I asked him to show me the shoe pad thickness, and informed him that if it wasn't under 1/32" inches, I would report him to the state. He backed off and gave me the sticker.

 

[Bogy]

That's why the state issues an exact checklist (with examples), because in the past mechanics would fail a vehicle in order to get more work.
I once had a guy try to fail me for my brakes. I asked him to show me the shoe pad thickness, and informed him that if it wasn't under 1/32" inches, I would report him to the state. He backed off and gave me the sticker.

In Missouri I once made the mistake of taking one of our cars to a mechanic who I found out had a reputation for finding problems others didn't. He failed me for a tiny tick in my rack and pinion steering. I left his place, stopped by a parts store on the way home, changed it out that night, and in the morning went back to the mechanic to have him sign off on my inspection.

 

[bhelms]

The S-10 will now fail for at least that torn-out left cab corner, exposing some hitherto unknown significant rust. I don't know if any of the other body damage is preclusive.

My wife and I had a long discussion about this yesterday. The short-term decision depends completely on the repair shop's low-side estimate. We decided that if they can make it road worthy again (2 wheels, 2 used tires, replacement (used?) gas tank as a minimum) for less than $1K with a high probability that that is everything resulting from the accident, then we'll go that route. Per my earlier post, I don't want to rush into a decision on a replacement and I think we can get at least another 6 months out of it this way, perhaps longer if we have alternate road wheels and only use the truck on our property. If it's over $1K, then it's "happy trails to you" time...!

Bob - Any idea how much that guard rail repair cost? I still haven't looked at the one my wife hit, will do so on Sat. AM when we retrace that same route. It's also one that has probably been hit a number of times. Interesting you mentioned my Mom's car! We discussed that as well. Too bad I don't have that now as we can really use it. I guess my decision about that vehicle has now been made. She can take that one over. In the winter if we have snow or ice on our lane, that means leaving it at the bottom of the lane and using the truck to get up and down (all "off road").

Everyone have a great holiday weekend! I guess I might spend part of it truck shopping...!

 

[pyride65]

I just restored a 1965 ford mustang from ground up i can undestand how expenisve things can be. But just a thought those s-10 you can do so much with those if you want to fix it up. Parts are very resonible to find. Also if you want to buld something of toy out of it they make kits were you can do v8 swaps for s-10s, they make baja kits, Just about anything you can think of it do you have any pics of the truck to see how bad it is. By the ways i am new to satellite guys. Hello everyone