Mounting dish on block wall question..

[mikew]

I have a couple of dishes mounted to a block wall. I want to move one of the dishes but can't seem to drill a hole with the bits I have. What type of bit is recommended for the job and what anchor is best to keep it sturdy?

Thanks...

 

[raoul5788]

You need to use a masonry bit to drill the holes. Tapcons are often used. You may need to use a molly or toggle bolt. The toggle is the sturdiest, but usable only if you hit the cavity in the block.

 

[twizt3dsist3r]

Deffinently will need a masonary bit, and possibly a "hammer drill" i would highly recommend a hammer drill to ease the project. I personally would not mount a dish to block, but "if" i were to do so i would use mollys (also known as anchors) along with size matching lags. A trip to lowes/home depot will set you straight. Fair warning a quality cordless hammer drill is gonna run you 300usd. I personally swear by hitatchi products.

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[raoul5788]

$300 for a cordless hammer drill? I have a Porter Cable that does a decent job, especially on easy stuff like concrete block.
http://www.lowes.com/Search=porter+...newSearch=true&Ntt=porter+cable+hammer+drill#
If you want a better one, this Ryobi is an excellent deal.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202347...toreId=10051&N=5yc1v&R=202347155#.UWXbHpN1-So

 

[twizt3dsist3r]

I use a 3.0amp lithium ion hitatchi 18v cordless hammer, porter cable is ok imo, but i dont like ryobi. Dewalt is also top of the line.

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[goober22]

Geez. You don't need a hammer drill to drill 4-8 holes in masonry. We're not drilling 2 inch holes here! You just need a masonry bit (concrete drill bit) in the size for your anchors. It has a carbide blade to "grind" thru the concrete. Insert your anchors (mollys, toggles, tapcons, etc.) and install the mount. Just make sure the bit size matches your anchor hole needed.

While a hammer drill speeds up drilling, it is no way needed for this simple procedure. Besides, a concrete bit lasts for many hole drills before dulling. BTW, my dish is mounted to an old brick fireplace (actually an exhaust for an old oil furnace). Drilled by a concrete bit that I still use today (8 years old).

 

[raoul5788]

I agree it's not necessary to use a hammer drill, but I like having the right tools for the job. One problem in not using one is that when you take longer to drill the hole, you are more likely to have the hole open up since it's hard to hold the drill straight for long enough. If you are used to using tools it's not an issue, but if not, you could mess it up.

 

[twizt3dsist3r]

I agree it's not necessary to use a hammer drill, but I like having the right tools for the job. One problem in not using one is that when you take longer to drill the hole, you are more likely to have the hole open up since it's hard to hold the drill straight for long enough. If you are used to using tools it's not an issue, but if not, you could mess it up.

my point exactly, and as for brands of drills and prices, everyone has and is entitled to their own opinions, but the saying "you get what you pay for" usually holds true. Ive used hitatchi products for the past 6years, and only had to replace my drill 3x, and 2 of which were because I left it at a customers house or it was stolen off a job site by a skumbag custy. only time i broke a drill is because i dropped it from over 40'

 

[stardust3]

Lead anchors & lag bolts sound like what you need for hardware. Block is not bad drilling in without a hammer drill, poured concrete is a different story. I believe the drill bit size I use with the lead anchors I have is 1/2".

 

[raoul5788]

Unless you are into the solid I-beam part of the block, I wouldn't use lead anchors. Block can be brittle with force across the facing. I'd rather use a toggle bolt in this case.

 

[stardust3]

Unless you are into the solid I-beam part of the block, I wouldn't use lead anchors. Block can be brittle with force across the facing. I'd rather use a toggle bolt in this case.

I agree with that, however with toggle bolts the shaft is smaller than the diameter of the hole & can allow movement with contraction & expansion. Personally I'm sold on lead anchors, either toggle bolts or lead anchors is better than plastic or using a mortar joint.

 

[raoul5788]

I agree with that, however with toggle bolts the shaft is smaller than the diameter of the hole & can allow movement with contraction & expansion. Personally I'm sold on lead anchors, either toggle bolts or lead anchors is better than plastic or using a mortar joint.

I would never use the mortar joint, it's not stable enough. Plastic will deteriorate too quickly. If you use a sturdy enough toggle, you can torque it down very tight. If you keep the molly near the center of the block, I guess it should hold up okay, but I wouldn't use it anywhere near the edge.