LNB question

[Feline Joe]

So the feed horn is a C-120? I am sorry for being so obtuse about this. I just want to be able to use the dish to its fullest potential with the correct feed horn.

My granddaughter and I are taking the fiberglass dish to the car wash this evening to get all of the moss and dirt off of it. Tomorrow the back will be coated with marine gel resin containing UV inhibitors. Friday, I am painting the front ol8ve drab.

 

[Titanium]

So the feed horn is a C-120? I am sorry for being so obtuse about this. I just want to be able to use the dish to its fullest potential with the correct feed horn.

My granddaughter and I are taking the fiberglass dish to the car wash this evening to get all of the moss and dirt off of it. Tomorrow the back will be coated with marine gel resin containing UV inhibitors. Friday, I am painting the front ol8ve drab.

Yes, the scalar waveguide is C120.

Be careful if using a pressure washer. Easy to delaminate old composites. I would use a stiff bristle brush and RV detergent.

 

[Feline Joe]

Thank you for the warning. I will use a garden hose and RV detergent and a dish brush (OK, I admit, the "dish brush" is a bad attempt at humor...

 

[primestar31]

Be careful if using a pressure washer. Easy to delaminate old composites. I would use a stiff bristle brush and RV detergent.

I just cleaned a 1.2m composite Prodelin dish that was filthy, using nothing more than a garden hose, this stuff sprayed on first before washing it: Mold Armor 32 oz. Mold and Mildew Killer and Quick Stain Remover FG502 - The Home Depot and a bristle brush, as Brian says. A pressure washer is not needed, and will likely blow holes in the dish.

Simple spray all over the dish, a light scrub with the brush, and sprayed it with a garden hose, and this is the result. Note, I didn't make any attempt to make it "perfect":

 

[Feline Joe]

Got the mold killer shown above and a "dish brush" (hee hee). Just as advised, sprayed it on, gently brushed, rinsed, and Voila!, all the moss and mold is gone.

I will let it completely dry in the mid day sun tomorrow, then coat the back with gel resin in the cool of the evening.

Thanks again,

Joe

 

[Feline Joe]

Update on this dish:

I have gotten all of the metal parts grit blasted, primed and painted a nice flat olive drab. I let the primer and paint dry in my shop for 48 hours, then move them about into the hot sun to bake and cure.

 

[Feline Joe]

The fiberglass dish was very dirty and stained. There is exposed fiberglassfibers on the back. Mygrand daughter and I scrubbed it with a mold removing house wash product and the garden hose, after being warned about damage being caused by pressure washing. I let it dry for several days, and sprayed the front with the same lovely flat olive drab. This weekend I will coat the back with marine grade resin gell to secure the fiberglass. After that cures (it is a nasty purple color) I will paint it olive drab as well.

73,

Joe

 

[Feline Joe]

One last bit... I replaced all threaded fasteners (except the elevation bolt) with stainless. When I reassemble the dish. I will use anti seize compound on the threads.

73,

Joe

 

[Feline Joe]

Here is the mount for the dish that I am working on. The actual dish mount is disassembled while the paint is curing. I will have to reattach the mount to the fiberglass dish before setting it on the frame.

The weather today was not hot enough to apply the gell resin to the back (in my experience, if it is not hot enough, the gell can run before it sets up). I do not have a curing oven as I just dabble with glass repair.

Best,

Joe

KB0TXC