LED bulbs

Just ordered a four set.

I have two 4 T8 tube fixtures in the kitchen. One will be LED with ballast, the other LED direct wire to 120v.

Delivery on Wednesday can't come soon enough. The flickering is driving me nuts.

CANCELLED. Turns out, half the tombstones are "special" tiny ones. Need to see about wiring my own non-shunted from these, if I can even remove them for work<sigh>.

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After removing and inspecting the little tombstone, there is no way to convert it.

Now, off to ye olde village tombstone supply house.
 
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Ok. Found Leviton 395-2w G13 sockets. Almost exactly the same size. With shipping, ~$20 from Platt.

Anyone got any other ideas before I pull the trigger?

https://images.plattstatic.com/ProductImages/Medium/Leviton-LEV3952W-37256.jpg

Of course, I still have to figure how to remove the end cap to get at the other tombstones- and REINSTALL it. Held on by a piece of plastic I'll have to cut. Maybe I can screw it back together.
 
Dang navychop, the tombstones should've been the easy part.

Keep in mind the direct wired led bulbs are directional light. A standard florescent will output light 360 degrees around the bulb.

A tombstone straight up and down with a direct wired led bulb can either shine the light down or back into the fixture.

If it were me, I'd use the regular non shunted tombstones with a couple of well placed pop rivets.
 
Since I caught hell for resurrecting a two-week old thread, I can't wait to see how my post is received ;)

Two items regarding LED lighting. First, I picked up some Feit T-8/T-12 fluorescent replacements that work with electronic and magnetic ballasts. I replaced a pair of T-12 bulbs in the basement and I was blinded by the light (yeah, the old bulbs were at least 25 years old!). I bought two at my local Ace Hardware for $25 a pop, but found the same bulbs (Feit T48/841/LED) on Amazon so Scott can get a little kickback. I almost got the ballast bypass model as the price was the same, but these use two Watts less per fixture (17W v 18W per bulb). Of course, I may be regretting that if it turns out by leaving the ballast in the circuit that it consumes more than 2 W! But installation was as simple as plugging in the new bulbs in the old sockets, making sure the LEDs face downward. They are adjustable so it might be something to tweak by pointing the bulbs slightly. Just pull out on the end caps and rotate to the desired orientation. Pretty slick!

With that said, it's time to address a Safety issue. A little over a year ago I purchased four off-brand LED 60W equivalents from Menards. I can't tell you the brand since the light bulbs do not have a manufacturer logo or stamp on them. They were stamped "9W.WW DIM" and "AC 90-120V M-24" and had a waffled heatsink base between the Edison threads and the frosted bulb. We have a brass floor lamp that features three bulbs circling the center bulb connected to a 1-2-3 switch, and then a single bulb in the center driven by the normal twist-on, twist-off switch. I put all four bulbs in this lamp. There is absolutely no impedance to air flow so what happened next I chalk up to cost-cutting.

After 9 months or so of use my son lets me know that the lights are flickering and cutting on and off, and one bulb is making sparking noises. I removed the bulbs and to my surprise, I see that the plastic insulator between the tip and the screen base is in pieces and discolored. I pull all the bulbs and see similar damage to two of the other bulbs. I set them aside since I can't very well return them since I have no idea who makes them and if I went to Menards and said they're selling crap, I don't expect it would go well, especially without a receipt.
BadBulb1.jpg

So, fast-forward to a couple of weeks ago and I get around to tearing apart these damaged no-name light bulbs. The first surprise came in discovering that the frosted bulb was not plastic, but actually frosted glass! Fortunately, I did not slice up my hands as I was wearing work gloves, but WTF?!? I guess I needed a Glass Cuter anyway (hence the trip to the Ace Hardware) so I could have a fighting chance on dismantling the rest. I'll fast-forward through the process, but in a nutshell, it's score the glass bulb around the base, use the nob-end of the glass cutter to get the glass to crack along the etch marks, then using a knife to cut through the silicon caulk used to hold the glass to the base. Pry up on the LED module, cut the feed wires, unscrew the LED Driver electronics module, and loosen the Edison base so the wires can be removed. Then, it comes apart pretty easy.

Those who know me know my favorite Electronics projects revolve around bad capacitors. Well, why should this be any different? Here's the one board form the totally dead bulb:
BadBulb2.jpg

The 330µF 25V electrolytic capacitor is toast. It blew and the discoloration of the circuit board above it is where something sizzled. I tested the fuse and it had blown, protecting us from further chance of fire.

Amazingly, the following board and bulb still functioned, other than the lights flickering like crazy:
BadBulb3.jpg

The rubber end cap blew completely out of the aluminum can! Below it is a replacement 330µF 35V replacement capacitor. The yellow connectors in upper-left are a Luminaire Disconnect that I harvested from work.

I picked up some high-temperature silicone wire/plug assemblies since the LED module can get above 75?C. So, end result, I now have three harvested LED modules with LED drivers:
BadBulb4.jpg

Just need a good heatsink to prevent the LEDs from destroying themselves. I'm thinking of using these either in a ceiling fixture or as a light kit in a ceiling fan.

So, cautionary tale. If you get a great deal on a LED bulb, pull it out after six-nine months and see how the materials are holding up. There should be no degradation of the insulation. I'm sticking to GE, Philips, Osram, Sylvania, or Feit.
 
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I suppose I should update this. I ended up finding some 60-75 Watt-equivalent candelabra-mount bulbs for the new ceiling fan on Amazon instead of trying to retrofit the pieces I had recovered from the light bulbs that I mentioned above.
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I converted the old lighting kit from the previous ceiling fan and retrofitted the LED modules and power modules into that using an old copper alloy heatsink from a discarded 1U server.
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Unfortunately, I need to address the interference fit as the machine screws I picked to mount the heatsink prevent the fan blades from spinning freely. :(OOPS.:(
 
BTW, you can buy adapters to change a candelabra base to a medium base. I had enough space in my fan to do so, and get a decent amount of light.
 

My new inexpensive traveling OTA project

Inexpensive UHF antenna

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