Ku dish used for Cband
- Thread starter melbfla
- Start date
- Latest activity Latest activity:
- Replies 57
- Views 10K
- Status
Dsmith the new hole for the mount is at. 2.5 inches in from where the ku original hole is might be different on yours I had picked the dish using the ku lnb then I moved the cband in and out on the arm till the signal was pretty decent also the conical scaler is right on the edge of the lnb just so the screws would hold and of course play with the skewWow, that's the same dish I'm using for Ku-band with a HH90 motor, I didn't have much luck with C-band on that dish, but I was using the original lnb mount hole, now I'm wanting to try again after seeing your photos. How far from the original LNB bolt hole is your new mount? I currently have C-band 99w on an old Primestar dish, this looks like it would work much better. Looks like the same C-band LNB that I'm using too. . Wonder how well this would work with a combo C/Ku LNBF and HH90 motor? Time for experimenting...Thanks for sharing!
Regards
Well I do have 2 open ports on the switch I also have a dish 500 and other misc dishes I collected tru the years all smaller direc tv and dish network people have trown away so maybe order another lnb and ring and do like you suggested aim for another sat .....as time permits
Regards
I have the Titanium Satellite C1W-PLL lite, looks like you had the mount at/near the 42 mark on the LNBF, and the conical scaler right up against it, so now I just have to find the sweet spot on the dish arm and drill a hole to mount it. May switch the LNBF for a C1W-PLL with the WiMax filter if I have good luck with this. I wonder if I can do a sidecar with a Ku LNBF on this as well? I have a new Titanium PLL-1KS Ku LNBF just waiting for a new home. Hmmm... looks like I have something fun to do this weekend after all
Thanks for your help!
The LNBF fore/aft positioning and the conical scalar placement will vary on each mini/micro BUD dish. The placement of either component depends on the reflector's sweet spot (where the signals converge and are in correct phasing). The placement will also vary between satellites and even between transponders as the reflector is not 2 degree compliant and signals from several satellites will always be reflecting into the feedhorn.
Moving the feedhorn/scalar fore/aft may attenuate adjacent satellite interference on one transponder and increase the Signal Quality reading. The same placement may decease signal quality on other transponders on the same satellite that are not experiencing interference from an adjacent satellite.
On most dishes, the feedhorn opening placement is optimized when it is centered at the same approximate height and distance from the reflector as the original KU LNBF was positioned. Use a long threaded bolt to attach the feedhorn clamp to the arm and use washers and several nuts to position the feedhorn height. Also tilt the feedhorn up/down to tilt at the same angle into the center of the reflector.
Once the fore/aft feedhorn placement is optimized, install the conical scalar and position it fore/aft for optimized performance. Then move the feedhorn fore/aft to optimize, then move the conical scalar fore/aft to optimize. Repeat optimizing these two settings. If you wish to receive several transponders from the satellite, switch between the transponders as the feedhorn/conical fore/aft adjustments are made.
This is the C1-PLL mounted on my 1.2m dish that has a FD of .6. This positioning optimized the PR/VI transponder on 99w.
Moving the feedhorn/scalar fore/aft may attenuate adjacent satellite interference on one transponder and increase the Signal Quality reading. The same placement may decease signal quality on other transponders on the same satellite that are not experiencing interference from an adjacent satellite.
On most dishes, the feedhorn opening placement is optimized when it is centered at the same approximate height and distance from the reflector as the original KU LNBF was positioned. Use a long threaded bolt to attach the feedhorn clamp to the arm and use washers and several nuts to position the feedhorn height. Also tilt the feedhorn up/down to tilt at the same angle into the center of the reflector.
Once the fore/aft feedhorn placement is optimized, install the conical scalar and position it fore/aft for optimized performance. Then move the feedhorn fore/aft to optimize, then move the conical scalar fore/aft to optimize. Repeat optimizing these two settings. If you wish to receive several transponders from the satellite, switch between the transponders as the feedhorn/conical fore/aft adjustments are made.
This is the C1-PLL mounted on my 1.2m dish that has a FD of .6. This positioning optimized the PR/VI transponder on 99w.
Last edited:
I have the Titanium Satellite C1W-PLL lite, looks like you had the mount at/near the 42 mark on the LNBF, and the conical scaler right up against it, so now I just have to find the sweet spot on the dish arm and drill a hole to mount it. May switch the LNBF for a C1W-PLL with the WiMax filter if I have good luck with this. I wonder if I can do a sidecar with a Ku LNBF on this as well? I have a new Titanium PLL-1KS Ku LNBF just waiting for a new home. Hmmm... looks like I have something fun to do this weekend after all
Well I wish you the best of luck and now you we have a lot more info from from titanium if I can help in any way let me know I guess it depends what you are looking to get I only wanted one next one will be more general I hope
Regards
Well, my curiosity got the best of me, and I just had to give it a try this evening. The setup slipped out of my hand while looking for the "sweet spot" and the F-connector broke loose from the circuit board, & even though I opened and resoldered, I couldn't get a signal, I even put it back on my original setup, and still was dead.
So my new mini/micro bud project is on hold until I order and receive a new LNBF, I should have waited until the weekend like I planned, but haste got me in trouble again and cost me a LNBF... going for a C1-PLL with the WiMax filter this time... Thanks Titanium, will be placing an order soonDarn it sorry to hear but you are not alone I have done the same thing with lots of projects in the fta world I took out an lnb because I was in a rush getting dark and one the times I did not power the receiver off and puff gone so hope it goes well when you get it and keep us inform . By the way I always tell myself I will not do that again but I do it anyhow you think I would learn lolWell, my curiosity got the best of me, and I just had to give it a try this evening. The setup slipped out of my hand while looking for the "sweet spot" and the F-connector broke loose from the circuit board, & even though I opened and resoldered, I couldn't get a signal, I even put it back on my original setup, and still was dead.
Regards
Me to, but I'm sure I'll do it again, LOL I think it might have done more damage than I can see, but I'll probably take another look at it while I wait on my new one, who knows, maybe I'll get lucky and get it working again. I have another C-band LNBF somewhere, a very cheap Young YY-CD008 model, $15 eBay from China, and it actually worked pretty good, was my 1st c-band lnb on the mini-bud, just have to dig through my junk pile, oops, I mean treasure chest and see if I can find it. LOL
Don't feel too bad. We've all done it. A short time back I was trying to peak the motorized ku while standing on a step ladder after dark. I was juggling a socket wrench, a flashlight and the birdog meter. Sat the meter down on top of the ladder to put on a socket, lost my balance and both me and the meter fell. Didn't feel very good. Luckily the meter was connected to the dish by a short coax and it didn't hit the ground (did bounce off the pole though).Well, my curiosity got the best of me, and I just had to give it a try this evening. The setup slipped out of my hand while looking for the "sweet spot" and the F-connector broke loose from the circuit board, & even though I opened and resoldered, I couldn't get a signal, I even put it back on my original setup, and still was dead.
Found the old cheap Young YY-CD008 C-band LNBF, needs a little re-painting, but it was working when I removed it, so should still be good. Re-trial tomorrow afternoon... LOL
Wow I am impress when ever I try to find something in my many "treasure chests" aka one car garage full of junk so some people say it takes me many hours good lock and let us know remember no rush lol
Regards
I couldn't help myself, I had to find it before I went to bed. Off work at noon tomorrow, so plenty of time to play with the toys, LOL
Is that a custom made holder, or is it available for purchase somewhere? I have a dish with the round feed arm (old BJU homeschool ku offset dish), and I haven't been able to find a suitable lnb holder for it. Thanks!
The metal clamp is sold here:
https://www.satelliteav.com/p/shop/?ws_pid=1711&ws_cat=433
If you order our conical scalar, it includes a 65mm poly clamp:
http://www.titaniumsatellite.com/products#!/CS1-Conical-Scalar-Kit-for-Offset-Dish/p/28257555
Just ordered the C1-PLL C-band LNBF 65db Gain Phase Lock Loop- WiMAX LTE WiFi Interference Filter from your eBay store, Thanks again!
Has anybody had any experience with the Satlink WS-6906 Digital Satellite Finder? I was considering buying one, it's basically a portable TV with a FTA receiver built in, so you can see the actual channels on its 3.5" screen. Looks like it's DVB only, no DVB/S2 but thought this would be pretty cool to play with and take a small dish on a tripod with me to be able to show friends what they can get with a fta system. It also has video in and out too. Thinking it would be great for camping too, since it's 12v and comes with AC and car adapters.
- Status
