OTHER Ku Dish Farm Advice?

[Captain Midnight]

It all depends... In Europe, the majority of Ku-band satellites nave intense power, so it is not a problem to get signals from satellites up to 10 degrees (or even more) difference of orbital positions. On the pictures I posted in my post #9 LNBs are located ~12cm apart from the middle one (24cm total distance between edge LNBs). In the USA situation can be different.

When my motor died, I was facing 97w. I took an LNB in my hand and put my receiver on 103w, TP 12145V. The strongest signal on the bird. I was barely able to find it on the 1.2m. That's 6 degrees off, and it is possible my feed support rod was partially blocking the reception.

 

[RimaNTSS]

I am not aware of signal intensity on 97*W and 103*W. But I know for sure that in Europe, some satellites, for example 13*E and 19,2*E are sending signal so strong that they can be easily received in multifeeds even on smaller antennas than 1,2m.
Sure, in CM case, if you need to build multifeed system you better have side feedarms fixed wider than they are originally.

 

[one_db_compression]

I appreciate this info. Do you mind posting a radiation pattern for a 1m offset? I have one 1m I may try to get 2 or 3 satellites with.

Sidelobes - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

http://www.w1ghz.org/antbook/chap5.pdf

1.2m is likely the closest "commercial diameter". Here are a GD Satcom Prodelin 1134 and a Skyware Type 123. The numbers are not magically-created; they are driven by regulators and technical working groups with a lot of brain power. Google SRSP-101and SRSP-310.7 and you'll see there is relationship between terrestrial and extra-terrestrial links and that the performance parameters in the spec sheets is meant to adhere to prescribed technical envelopes that would have been derived by groups like the ITU, NTIA, etc, etc.

You'll need to do some math with a scientific calculator and Excel unless I can find something in the archives.

 

[Captain Midnight]

Sidelobes - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

http://www.w1ghz.org/antbook/chap5.pdf

1.2m is likely the closest "commercial diameter". Here are a GD Satcom Prodelin 1134 and a Skyware Type 123. The numbers are not magically-created; they are driven by regulators and technical working groups with a lot of brain power. Google SRSP-101and SRSP-310.7 and you'll see there is relationship between terrestrial and extra-terrestrial links and that the performance parameters in the spec sheets is meant to adhere to prescribed technical envelopes that would have been derived by groups like the ITU, NTIA, etc, etc.

You'll need to do some math with a scientific calculator and Excel unless I can find something in the archives.

Thanks again. I always knew just off antenna theory that gain is gained by narrowing the main lobe. I figured the 1.2m is tighter than the 1.0m. Just didn't know how that 40dBw gain line came out as far as 10cm or what. I'll look into it some. And of course experiment.

 

[one_db_compression]

Thanks again. I always knew just off antenna theory that gain is gained by narrowing the main lobe. I figured the 1.2m is tighter than the 1.0m. Just didn't know how that 40dBw gain line came out as far as 10cm or what. I'll look into it some. And of course experiment.

Here's a decent experiment or two.

Measure the distance D in cm from what you believe to be the main focal point of the reflector to your primary LNB.
Measure the distance X in cm from your second LNB to the primary

Theta = arctan(X/D)

Does the roll-off start to look like it is in the range of the envelope of a microwave dish? Of the interval equations on the commercial satellite dish? Does it start to "feel" like there is a relationship? This might be more pronounced if your location is in a secondary or tertiary part of the footprint where the bigger dish is being used to make up for being in a non-ideal part of the contour.

What are the results of using the primary LNB on the hottest footprint and the outboard LNB for the weaker footprint? And then configured vice-versa?

 

[Captain Midnight]

Here's a decent experiment or two.

Measure the distance D in cm from what you believe to be the main focal point of the reflector to your primary LNB.
Measure the distance X in cm from your second LNB to the primary

Theta = arctan(X/D)

Does the roll-off start to look like it is in the range of the envelope of a microwave dish? Of the interval equations on the commercial satellite dish? Does it start to "feel" like there is a relationship? This might be more pronounced if your location is in a secondary or tertiary part of the footprint where the bigger dish is being used to make up for being in a non-ideal part of the contour.

What are the results of using the primary LNB on the hottest footprint and the outboard LNB for the weaker footprint? And then configured vice-versa?

Luckily for me, I live in the strongest area of most US satellite footprints.

 

[Captain Midnight]

Hey there.. Good luck in your project... I see there is already a link to one of my threads, but i think i can more directly talk about the switching. I am lucky as that i have not noticed loosing a signal between tapping directly at the dish, and inline through all the switching. I did have a scenario just recently where i couldn't get some signals on 34.5w. But, it turned out to be a poor performance LNBF. I swapped out the LNBF and that solved that issue. There are a couple of FEED channels i cannot get on 91w, but i cannot get them at the dish either, so it has nothing to do with the switching. It has more to do with i am using a side-car lnbf to pick up 99w and I am probably not 100% fine tuned on it.

I cover 30, 34.5, 87, 91, 95, 97, 99, 101,103,110,111,113,117,121 . I utilize multiple dishes, and multiple LNBF's on the dishes. I added additional complexity in that i wanted it to work with 4 satellite receivers at the same time. So, i utilize diseqc 1.0 , diseqc 1.1 switches and then a bunch of Eagle Aspen 5x4 Satellite Multiswitch S-4140-GX 54-2150 Mhz . This allows me to hook up 4 satellite receivers to every dual LNBF. I have my diseqc 1.0 switch at the receiver, then that goes to multiple destinations. Up-line to those each one also has a diseqc 1.1 switch that then branches off to the different 5x4 switches. Each 5x4 switch allows 2 horizontal and 2 vertical lines to allow for 2 different satellites, or even more if you want to restrict one or more LNBFS to only vertical or horizontal... Example : I utilized 125w VERTICAL ONLY and 95w HORIZONTAL only so I was able cheat and get additional sources with less hardware. The 5x4 switch uses 22khz to switch between the two different satellites it handles.

I also created a favorites list that contains the switch destinations within the service name. I found this to make it easier to trouble shoot and more quickly track down where in-line i might have potential problems. The first number represents Diseqc 1.0 port , the second number represents the port # of the diseqc 1.1 switch, and the ON/OFF represents the 22khz tone. Port 3 of my Diseqc 1.0 switch all goes to one storage container. Port #2 goes to 8x4 switches i have in the basement to cover my two additional cband dishes at the house, and then Port #3 goes to another storage container that hits another farm of KU and Cband dishes. Port #4 is utilized to tap into a DVBS modulator that converts my Digicipher signals to DVBS signals that i can then gain access to through port 4 on all my satellite receivers. I then used a secondary TUNER for my once USALS KU.

View attachment 157212

Here is a picture that shows many of my KU dishes. I have another farm of dishes on another storage container not shown in the below picture.

View attachment 157211

I'm likely looking at 14 or 15 LNBs to cover what I want to watch. All standard LNBs. What would you do? I have a 4x8 multiswitch that I can work with too that I used to distribute my C band and previously motorized ku dish. I rather keep this intact with the multiswitch, but I am struggling with how to do so.

 

[iBoston]

I'm likely looking at 14 or 15 LNBs to cover what I want to watch. All standard LNBs. What would you do? I have a 4x8 multiswitch that I can work with too that I used to distribute my C band and previously motorized ku dish. I rather keep this intact with the multiswitch, but I am struggling with how to do so.

How many receivers are you trying to get signal too?

 

[Captain Midnight]

How many receivers are you trying to get signal too?

Just 2 or 3. But I'd like to combine the C band with the Ku if possible without too much hassle.

 

[iBoston]

Just 2 or 3. But I'd like to combine the C band with the Ku if possible without too much hassle.

I don't think your talking about putting a combo c/ku lnbf.. Those stink. I think you are referring to mixing cband/ku within the multi switches etc, and there is no problem with that. The switches/multiswitches don't care how you miss-match those.

I realize this may be a confusing picture, but here is how my system is setup. You can follow the flow. This isn't my current setup, as things have changed, and i have added additional dishes.. But, this will at least give you an idea of how its all hooked together.....

 

[Captain Midnight]

I don't think your talking about putting a combo c/ku lnbf.. Those stink. I think you are referring to mixing cband/ku within the multi switches etc, and there is no problem with that. The switches/multiswitches don't care how you miss-match those.

I realize this may be a confusing picture, but here is how my system is setup. You can follow the flow. This isn't my current setup, as things have changed, and i have added additional dishes.. But, this will at least give you an idea of how its all hooked together.....

No combo LNBFs on my farm lol

 

[iBoston]

No combo LNBFs on my farm lol

You need combo LNBF's if your trying to access the satellite on more than one receiver. You need to be able to receive both Vertical and Horizontal at the same time so that any receiver can then access them independently.

 

[Captain Midnight]

What is the go-to Ku LNBF now? I have 4 Mavericks but I can't find them as cheap as I once could. Are the GeoSatPros just as good?

 

[iBoston]

What is the go-to Ku LNBF now? I have 4 Mavericks but I can't find them as cheap as I once could. Are the GeoSatPros just as good?

Everything is more expensive these days.... I have had good luck with the GeoSatPro's. I have a lot of those. Just don't by the cheapo no name ones.. Its not worth the hit and miss nature of those. I had to swap out one cheapo ebay dual LNBF just this spring because i couldn't get a signal lock on one TP. I put in a suggested well named one and I have have a SOLID lock on that TP ever since.

In that particular case, i might have gone overboard, I bought the
Inverto Black Ultra 0.2dB Twin Output

It might have been over kill, but I was tired of having issues with that satellite location, and that particular model solved all my problems. But, as mentioned before, the GeoSatPros have been good for me and i didn't have any spare GeoSatPros to try on that particular problem.

 

[Captain Midnight]

Everything is more expensive these days.... I have had good luck with the GeoSatPro's. I have a lot of those. Just don't by the cheapo no name ones.. Its not worth the hit and miss nature of those. I had to swap out one cheapo ebay dual LNBF just this spring because i couldn't get a signal lock on one TP. I put in a suggested well named one and I have have a SOLID lock on that TP ever since.

In that particular case, i might have gone overboard, I bought the
Inverto Black Ultra 0.2dB Twin Output

It might have been over kill, but I was tired of having issues with that satellite location, and that particular model solved all my problems. But, as mentioned before, the GeoSatPros have been good for me and i didn't have any spare GeoSatPros to try on that particular problem.

I do have an Inverto Pro Black Dual flange LNB on a C-120 feedhorn for my main 1.2m now. It is absolutely top notch. I got my Mavericks for $5 each but now I can't find them under $15. The GeoSatPro looked like the best bang for my buck.

 

[Captain Midnight]

I'm brainstorming a proper way to add a cable entry point on the cheap for my shed. This dryer vent cover will work but does anyone have any other similar idea?

 

[lonelyfool123]

Attach an electrical weatherproof j-box to your shed with the cable entering from the bottom.
Dont forget to seal around it.