If money was not an issue what c band lnb/lnbf would you buy for a BUD system.

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sigmar

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Mar 8, 2014
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Bluff City, TN
Hello I am new to the forum for posting. I have been coming to the site however for about a year and a half looking for advice given to others for problems I had.

My current situation is that I have a 12' paraclipse dish rebuilt and ready to go. I am using a Openbox S9. I currently have a 3' dish with a ku lnb working fine on a motor.

What I want to know is what c band lnb would you buy if money wasn't an issue. Also I may ask as well what is the best actuator money can buy as well.

I currently have a bsc 621 but it has failed to produce any results whatsoever.

Thanks,
Mike from Bluff City, TN
 
If you are getting no results whatsoever with a 12ft dish with bsc621 then you either have an alignment issue, incorrectly installed equipment or bad equipment. You should be able to pull in most of what is out there with that combination.

That being said if money was no object I would have a Co-rotor with Norsat 3115 lnb.
 
I use a Bullseye II and 4 Norsat PLL LNBs
 

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Bullseye II and PLL Norsats.
Likely $1800 or more, just for the focal point. Then there's all the power inserters, switches, and cabling!
Corotor works real good with an ASC1 though...
-C.
 
magic, could i trouble u for a shot looking in that bad boy.
It does look like something i might be interested in also, if i had money that is... any idea on the cost of that system?
I don't really have a shot of that unit. I do have a shot of one similar for wideband circular.
I guess the retail on that one is about $1200 but I shopped on eBay and spent about half that. The switch and power supply was about $50 when it was all done. The power supply that comes with the switch is not beefy enough for 4 PLL LNBs. On second though, that pic is this unit. there is no dielectric blade in that one.
 

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Is your Paraclipse on a polar mount w/linear actuator? I believe they made a factory H-H mount, there is probably some info here on the forum to repair or restore same.

For linear actuators I would look at Saginaw, Venture and Von Weiss. Ball screw variety is usually stouter. Lots of actuators with plenty of life left wasting away on existing dishes all over the fruited plain. With a little hunting and maybe a clean/lube you could be in business for real low/no bucks.
 
I'd say there's something amiss if the OP is not getting anything. Shouldn't have to 'fork out' much to figure out the defect. If the Ku is on the same receiver as the C but is working on Ku the receiver is OK.
Could be some switch setting?? Describe how it's wired, Switches, etc. Maybe it's just not aimed correctly????
Oh, post some pictures, we like pictures.
If it turns out the LNBF is bad, I'd go for a Titanium C1 PLL as you've got Ku is on it's own dish.
I have recently put the Ku PLL on a dish and it's really 'peaked' performance.
"Big block' performance would be a Ortho with PLL LNB's IMHO, either single or dual band. $$$$$$
BTW :welcome
 
Hello 77TA thank you for your post.

Currently on my 12' dish I have a button hook, but I am thinking of putting on 4 guy wires for further alignment of the button hook. I do believe that there are better LNB's out there and prefer new to the used one I have. I will continue to fine tune what I have currently until I get a new LNB. I am also placing an actuator on the dish as well once I get one of them, until then I will be locking onto one satellite.
 
Thank you Magic Static for your input.
With the setup you show it has both ku and C-band. With the dish that I have it has holes in the mesh that isn't well suited for ku signals. suppose I could do a similar setup with both brands you listed but for C-Band only.
 
LOL toucan-man that would be a great option. I have been looking locally in the Bristol TN area for someone to setup my C-Band system and pay for it but learn from what they are doing.

If money weren't an issue I'd fly Magic Static to my place and let him handle everything.
 
Hello phlatwound

My Paraclipse if that is what it is and I believe it to be, is on a polar mount and currently with no actuator. I plan on getting a robust actuator and brand new LNB.

Is your Paraclipse on a polar mount w/linear actuator? I believe they made a factory H-H mount, there is probably some info here on the forum to repair or restore same.

For linear actuators I would look at Saginaw, Venture and Von Weiss. Ball screw variety is usually stouter. Lots of actuators with plenty of life left wasting away on existing dishes all over the fruited plain. With a little hunting and maybe a clean/lube you could be in business for real low/no bucks.
 
Ok FaT Air now that I have managed to upload some photos to the site which I consider an accomplishment in its self due to the time it took me to figure out just to do that they are here for the viewing. Now I realize the orientation is off but still here they are. In the afternoon when the sun is out, I shall gather more information regarding my system and how it is hooked up. But as you can see in 3 of the 4 photos you can see my smaller ku band dish.
20140226_134037.jpg20140226_134026.jpg20140226_134014.jpg20140226_133955.jpg


I'd say there's something amiss if the OP is not getting anything. Shouldn't have to 'fork out' much to figure out the defect. If the Ku is on the same receiver as the C but is working on Ku the receiver is OK.
Could be some switch setting?? Describe how it's wired, Switches, etc. Maybe it's just not aimed correctly????
Oh, post some pictures, we like pictures.
If it turns out the LNBF is bad, I'd go for a Titanium C1 PLL as you've got Ku is on it's own dish.
I have recently put the Ku PLL on a dish and it's really 'peaked' performance.
"Big block' performance would be a Ortho with PLL LNB's IMHO, either single or dual band. $$$$$$
BTW :welcome
 
Your approximate location is 36.47,-82.27 so 83W is almost due south. Dish at apex, should be able spin the mount/dish on the pole to tune in the PA channel, freq 3804 Vertical pol, SR 4167
Another thing that may be the problem is skew. May be backwards. Don't know, for sure, but the "0" skew mark may have to be placed at the 3 o'clock position. (Might just program the polarity as H ??)
83W AMC9
Elevation: 47.7°
Azimuth (true): 181.2°
Azimuth (magn.): 188.0°
In the interim you may look over a page I've published on tuning a BUD http://theho.web.fc2.com/BUD/9525/
BTW: NICE dish.




 
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Thank you I will add your page that you have published to my folder of printed material for FTA dish's. Always looking for good information to gather as you can never have enough info in your arsenal to set these dishes up. I tend to print out a lot on this type of material as it seems some websites lose links or go down al together. Below are my stats based on 83W with the exact location of my dish form http://www.dishpointer.com/. As you can see you were very close in locating me. If you happen to put in those coordinates you can see what appears to be a light colored plus sign/cross. That spot is when I was cementing in my pole for the dish and the pieces that make the cross were 90 degree supports for the pole so that it would stay plumb. and if you were to look at the right of that, the little grey spot is my small dish. That photo must have been taken 1 1/2 years ago to 2 years ago as that is when I started in this new hobby. I am also planning on getting my complete system specification but currently I am doing a little pre-spring cleanup in my yard and building a pile of brush to burn to reclaim some of my land that has seem to attracted unwanted visitors in my yard.

Latitude: 36.4811°
Longitude: -82.1531°
Name: 83W AMC-9 (GE-12)​
Distance: 37234km
Motor Latitude: 36.5°
Declination Angle: 5.8°
Dish Elevation: °
Elevation: 47.7°
Azimuth (true): 181.5°
Azimuth (magn.): 188.3°
LNB Skew [?]: 1.1°
arrow-l.png
arrow-r.png


Dish Skew [?]: 90.0°
arrow-l.png
arrow-r.png





Your approximate location is 36.47,-82.27 so 83W is almost due south. Dish at apex, should be able spin the mount/dish on the pole to tune in the PA channel, freq 3804 Vertical pol, SR 4167
Another thing that may be the problem is skew. May be backwards. Don't know, for sure, but the "0" skew mark may have to be placed at the 3 o'clock position. (Might just program the polarity as H ??)
83W AMC9
Elevation: 47.7°
Azimuth (true): 181.2°
Azimuth (magn.): 188.0°
In the interim you may look over a page I've published on tuning a BUD http://theho.web.fc2.com/BUD/9525/
BTW: NICE dish.




 
although I'm not real close to you , when i'm working I'm located in Richmond, Kentucky so if you do need help i don't mind to lend a hand. On everything else these guys can walk you through the basic setup and guide you through the steps of fine tuning the dish.

of the few basics I'm sure you've already noted that c-band uses only 4 numbers in the LO unlike the Ku's 5. I found it easier ( if using one receiver ) to make two satellites for each say 97 KU and 97 C-band that way you can have a different setup for each LO

forgive me if my information is a bit old the BSC 621 is a c/ ku lnbf and uses a small cable to connect the two together and uses a built in 22KHz for switching between the two. if you already have KU setup then you can skip the ku connection altogether and just connect the c-band lnbf ( if you do so i recommend that you place old coax cutoffs as covers or use the short cable and connect the ku to the 22k output, this will protect those from the rain / elements)

the rest should fall into place as these guys are great at walking you through stuff and answering questions :)
BTW Welcome to satellite guys ( atleast the chatting part since you've been lurking here a while and nice dish, did you do the restore work ?
 
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