How To Fix West Limit on 12 Ft Mesh Dish?

[jsattv]

Finally succeeded in tracking many C Band Satellites on my 12 Foot Mesh Dish - (but Ku Sats are still a problem) on the Arc to the West but was really dissapointed when I discovered that the Actuator will ONLY Track Satellites as far West as 137.0W, that is I cannot go beyond 137.0W which is at Count 469 on the V Box III. I cannot get to 139.0W because I think that my rebuilt Von Weise Actuators' Internal Limits are preventing any further Dish Travel?

My Question is: How can this be fixed? Do I have to reposition the Dish by undoing the Bolts holding the Dish on the Pole Cap and then move it more to the West? How much would I turn the Dish it if this is the solution? Will that completely undo all my work in the last week in that will I have to find all the Satellites again? Any replies would be much appreciated.

 

[Lak7]

If you remove the Actuator cover, where the wires are connected, you will be able to see the Physical Limit switches. But these are usually already set for the Arm's Max. travel and do not need to be adjusted.

What size Actuator Arm are you using?
Does it look like the Are is fully retracted?
If so, you could loosen the bolts holding the Actuator and let the Dish slide to 139. If you do that, you will have to re-do all your Sat positions.

 

[sergei]

If you haven't moved the dish on the mount before having to install the rebuilt actuator and it worked before correctly then the limits do need adjusting.
But if the actuator is either fully retracted or extended then you will need to reposition the entire dish on the pole, kind of depends on much of the rod is exposed when the actuator stops at 137.

 

[jsattv]

If you haven't moved the dish on the mount before having to install the rebuilt actuator and it worked before correctly then the limits do need adjusting.
But if the actuator is either fully retracted or extended then you will need to reposition the entire dish on the pole, kind of depends on much of the rod is exposed when the actuator stops at 137.

Thanks Lak7 and Sergei for the replies.

I just drove the Dish back to C Band Sat 133.0W, and watched it, the Actuator is almost fully retracted so its likely a case where I need to reposition the Dish on the Pole.

I haven't tried it all the way yet, but I believe the Dish is travelling way too far in the East direction!! Hate to Reposition it again on the Pole since its taken me 2 months to at least pickup a Satellite farther West than 107.2W. But I still cannot get much for Ku Band Satellites other than 97.0W - my South Sat, and now 93.0W which only has marginal reception (15 to 20% Q quality) on AG Happy. C Band is coming in well. Lak7 I'm using an old rebuilt 8 magnet Von Weise Actuator which I took appart and regreased with white lithium grease re Gabsheres' instructions. Any replies would be much appreciated.

 

[linuxman]

Just loosen the clamp on the outside tube, and slide the tube into the clamp about an inch. That will allow you to get further West, and limit your travel East by that much.

Then just find all your satellites again which shouldn't be too hard. Count how many pulses between satellites and you can wrap it up in less than half an hour.

 

[Lak7]

"Do I have to reposition the Dish by undoing the Bolts holding the Dish on the Pole Cap and then move it more to the West? "
No! Just loosen the clamp holding the Actuator Arm and let the Dish "slide" down to the west.

 

[jsattv]

Just loosen the clamp on the outside tube, and slide the tube into the clamp about an inch. That will allow you to get further West, and limit your travel East by that much.

Then just find all your satellites again which shouldn't be too hard. Count how many pulses between satellites and you can wrap it up in less than half an hour.

Thanks a lot Linuxman and Lak7, I'll loosen off the Back Clamp holding the Actuator and try to Move the Dish a bit more to the West. The Pulse Count seems to be about 10 to 11 V Box III Counts per Satellite degree. I appreciate the help from the "Experts".

 

[linuxman]

The Pulse Count seems to be about 10 to 11 V Box III Counts per Satellite degree.

Is that 10 to 11 counts per degree and 20-22 per two degree satellite?

Or is it 10-11 counts between two degree satellites?

For instance between 137W and 135W, how many counts or pulses?

 

[jsattv]

Is that 10 to 11 counts per degree and 20-22 per two degree satellite?

Or is it 10-11 counts between two degree satellites?

For instance between 137W and 135W, how many counts or pulses?

Linuxman, the counts yesterday were:

Count / Satellite
951 = 93.0W
972 = 95.0W
992 = 97.0W - my South Satellite
014 = 99.0W
038 = 101.0W
105 = 107.3W
178 = 113.0W
334 = 125.0W
363 = 127.0W
411 = 131.0W
440 = 133.0W
466 = 137.0W - but the Count Stopped here as the Actuator was fully retracted, and I had to press the V Box III Remote Control a number of times to the East as it seemed the Actuator was temporarily hung up! Not sure whether the Higher End Satellites around 131.0W are keeping to the 10 to 11 counts per Sat degree.
I have enclosed some pictures of the Actuator.

Linuxman re moving the Dish more to the West Direction...... I'd like at some point be able to reach West as far as 148.0W - I can only get to approx 137.0W now so wouldn't I need to move the Actuator tube more than an Inch or so? And to move it more to the West do I need Remove the Bolt out of the Bracket in picture #3, OR can I just LOOSEN the Back end of the 2 Bolts on the Actuator Clamp and slowly move the Dish say approx 6 - 8 inches to the West?? Then I can set the West Dish limit electrically on the V Box III.

 

[linuxman]

Linuxman, the counts yesterday were:

Count / Satellite
951 = 93.0W
972 = 95.0W = 21
992 = 97.0W - my South Satellite = 20
014 = 99.0W = 22
038 = 101.0W = 24
105 = 107.3W = 67
178 = 113.0W = 73
334 = 125.0W = 156
363 = 127.0W = 29
411 = 131.0W = 48
440 = 133.0W = 29
466 = 137.0W = 26

The reason I asked is the number of pulses per degree, and therefore pulses between satellites dictates how accurately the dish is stopping and how incremental the dish moves when trying to fine tune.

With a 12 foot dish, the focus is much tighter and the accuracy has less tolerance especially for Ku. That could be the reason you aren't seeing any Ku signals.

Linuxman re moving the Dish more to the West Direction...... I'd like at some point be able to reach West as far as 148.0W - I can only get to approx 137.0W now so wouldn't I need to move the Actuator tube more than an Inch or so?

The only thing on 148W is DBS signals. I doubt you will install a DBS LNBF in the center point of your dish, so you don't actually need to move the dish that far West. If you mount a DBS LNBF on the East side of your feed-horn it will be about 6 degrees off center. On my Birdview, with a DBS mounted on the side, it is just a little past 139W that 148W comes in, so you don't need the dish to go the whole distance.

And to move it more to the West do I need Remove the Bolt out of the Bracket in picture #3, OR can I just LOOSEN the Back end of the 2 Bolts on the Actuator Clamp and slowly move the Dish say approx 6 - 8 inches to the West??

Just loosen the two bolts on the back side of picture number three that tighten around the outer tube on the actuator. I wouldn't think you would need to move it in more than an inch or maybe two.

Hope that helps!

 

[jsattv]

The reason I asked is the number of pulses per degree, and therefore pulses between satellites dictates how accurately the dish is stopping and how incremental the dish moves when trying to fine tune.

With a 12 foot dish, the focus is much tighter and the accuracy has less tolerance especially for Ku. That could be the reason you aren't seeing any Ku signals.


The only thing on 148W is DBS signals. I doubt you will install a DBS LNBF in the center point of your dish, so you don't actually need to move the dish that far West. If you mount a DBS LNBF on the East side of your feed-horn it will be about 6 degrees off center. On my Birdview, with a DBS mounted on the side, it is just a little past 139W that 148W comes in, so you don't need the dish to go the whole distance.



Just loosen the two bolts on the back side of picture number three that tighten around the outer tube on the actuator. I wouldn't think you would need to move it in more than an inch or maybe two.

Hope that helps!

Thanks a lot Linuxman. That is disappointing info re the Focus issues on my 12 Footer, since for Ku reception you are correct in that I am currently only seeing 97.0W and 95.0W (CCCTV) - with good Quality, and 93.0W - which is at very poor Quality and not really viewable.

One thing I forgot to mention is when I tried the Patent Infringing Feedhorn (that you advised me about) which is on the Dish right now, I left the older Gardiner C and Ku LNB's on it - just to try it out. I wonder if replacing those Gardiners' with my Norsat LNBs would give me more Accuracy and Focus - at least on Ku Band? 123.0W is the Ku Sat I would really like to pickup.

If not then I guess I'll need to use the Fortec 1 Meter Dish and Invacom LNB on the Roof of my house for Ku Band reception ..... and hope the Wind doesn't blow it out of kilter again. I've thought about mounting the Invacom LNB to the side of my Corotor II with some Brackets I have But it is very heavy.

Thanks for the great info re adjusting the Actuator more to the West, I'll loosen those Nuts on the Back of the Bracket and slide the Dish to the West a couple of inches. Lastly what's a DBS LNB and what is the recommended types?

 

[linuxman]

I wonder if replacing those Gardiners' with my Norsat LNBs would give me more Accuracy and Focus - at least on Ku Band? 123.0W is the Ku Sat I would really like to pickup.

The Ku LNB could be your whole problem if it isn't functioning correctly. By all means, put the Norsats on.

I've thought about mounting the Invacom LNB to the side of my Corotor II with some Brackets I have But it is very heavy.

I wouldn't do that. It defeats the whole purpose of having a Co-Rotor. Besides all your Ku satellites would be off by about 6 degrees.

Lastly what's a DBS LNB and what is the recommended types?

A DBS LNBF is a Circular type LNB used mostly for DirecTV and Dish Network. You would only need to mount one if you wanted to pickup the handful of channels that are ITC scattered across the arc.

 

[jsattv]

Thanks Linuxman for the great and valuable advice. Re the DBS LNB - just remembered that I did purchase a "Astrotel DSS LNBF with Scalar Ring" for $65.00 last year from Ricks Sat, - but it wouldn't fit properly on my Ring, and it always got in the way when I tried to rotate the Corotor II to the proper clock position, so I had to use a Scalar Ring without it. I've never heard about ITC Channels so I guess I need to read up on them!!

 

[jsattv]

Thanks a lot Lak7, and Linuxman your advice was 100% spot on!!! I loosened the Actuator Bracket and moved the Dish back about 1.25 inches and was able to see 139.0W but there was nothing on it. I got about 60 Counts more to the West.

Linuxman, you were dead right re changing out the Gardiner LNBs for the Norsat LNBs. There wasn't a big change on C Band, - but on Ku Band there was, and I can now get good Ku reception from 93.0W to 103.0W. Unfortunately I still can't get 123.0W / G10R, yet on C Band I can pickup 125.0W, as well as 127.0W!! Very frustrating, not really sure what else I can do to get 123.0W on Ku Band??

 

[Lak7]

Remember, what you gain in the West, you lose in the East. You should be OK though, just be careful trying for Sats past 72 west.

Your tracking may be off a little. Try getting C Band on 123, then switch to Ku then Raise / Lower Dish Elevation to see if you can get a lock. Remember to count the number of turns(or "faces" of the nut) while adjusting, so you can return the elevation to your starting point. When I was setting up my BUD, a 1/4 turn made a difference.