Although I just noticed something odd, not sure what to make of it. The way I have setup is my dual output is set on 91 middle 97 and last 103 but going by inputs as marked on switch the dual output is plugged into lnb4 and 103 is plugged into LNB2 but when I select port 4 in my receiver I get 103 and port 2 I get 97 so maybe the ports are labeled wrong on the switch or my receiver assigns numbers differently or somehow I'm catching reflections just right getting the opposite signals the both LNBs
how do figure out how far to space multiple LNBFs
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When you setup the Slimline for 121w, you may also be able to catch KBS World on 123w using one lnbf by turning it just a bit toward 123w. On one of my Slimlines I have it this way, with a Q of 80% on Velocity and Q of 60 on KBS World, on a MicroHD receiver.
Here's a few pictures of the lnbf mounting on my other two Slimlines. Both have the quick release bail, on one I had to put a shim in there along with the block of wood to make it tight. One's aimed at 95w, the other I don't think I can say in the open forum, think the channels aren't listed anywhere. The lnbf on that one is a circular lnbf with a Lo of 10750 and didn't need anything special to hold it in.
Dish on the far left is the Slimline on 121w, middle on top is a 30" on 103w, below that is a 30" on 87w, on the right is the Slimline on 95w. The third Slimline is mounted on a round picnic table bolted onto a tree stump out by my 9' dish.
Here's a few pictures of the lnbf mounting on my other two Slimlines. Both have the quick release bail, on one I had to put a shim in there along with the block of wood to make it tight. One's aimed at 95w, the other I don't think I can say in the open forum, think the channels aren't listed anywhere. The lnbf on that one is a circular lnbf with a Lo of 10750 and didn't need anything special to hold it in.
Dish on the far left is the Slimline on 121w, middle on top is a 30" on 103w, below that is a 30" on 87w, on the right is the Slimline on 95w. The third Slimline is mounted on a round picnic table bolted onto a tree stump out by my 9' dish.
I'm thinking the switch might be bad aside from the ports 2 and 4 being flipped port 1 is completely dead
Remember to completely remove all power to the receiver when connecting or disconnecting the switch or the LNBs. DiSEqC switches can be easily damaged during installation and service.
Usually port one does not fail as it is the default position when no valid control signal is received. Unusual...
Usually port one does not fail as it is the default position when no valid control signal is received. Unusual...
Yeah I unplugged my receiver from the wall, tried swapping cables and lnbs no matter what is connected to port 1 gets no power. Signal on port 1 9% same cable and LNB signal same position piort 2 (which the receiver sees as port 4) signal 80% quality 35% with lock
Just so I'm clear about ports being flipped
right now my setup is
Avenger KSC322-2 Dual Output Universal pointed at 91W connected to LNB4
Avenger KSC321S2 pointed at 97W connected to LNB3
Avenger KSC321S2 pointed at 103W connected to LNB2
I go into my receiver settings select
port 2 it scans in 91W
port 3 scans in 97W
port 4 scans in 103W
Which is why I'm confused I would think port 2 would scan 103 and port 4 would scan 91.
Receiver is a X2 V1 HD and the switch is a pansat 4x1 with weather cover
right now my setup is
Avenger KSC322-2 Dual Output Universal pointed at 91W connected to LNB4
Avenger KSC321S2 pointed at 97W connected to LNB3
Avenger KSC321S2 pointed at 103W connected to LNB2
I go into my receiver settings select
port 2 it scans in 91W
port 3 scans in 97W
port 4 scans in 103W
Which is why I'm confused I would think port 2 would scan 103 and port 4 would scan 91.
Receiver is a X2 V1 HD and the switch is a pansat 4x1 with weather cover
Take the one you say or think is 91W and hook it straight to the receiver, bypassing the switch. If it is indeed scanning in 91(do same with 103W), I would say your switch is for sure bad.
If 97 is the center LNBF when looking into the dish over the LNBF's, 103 would be the LNBF on the right and 91 on the left since the signal is reflected. Just the opposite of what you would expect. Could this be your situation?
In looking from behind the dish 103 is the one on the Left and the highest in is plugged into LNB2 port on the switch and 91W is the one on the Right and the lowest plugged into LNB4. But on my receiver when I select Port 2 it scans in 91W and if I select port 4 it scans in 103W. The middle LNB pointed at 97W is connected to LNB1 and LNB3, Selecting Port 1 the receiver acts like no LNB is connected or the power is turned off to LNB. Selecting port 3 scans 97W as expected
Plugging the receiver into the the Highest LNB gets me 103 and the lowest gets me 91 but when connected to the switch with 103 plugged into port 2 and 91 into port 4 receiver set to port 2 scans in 91 and port 4 scans in 103 the opposite of what I expected.
I'm guessing I damaged the switch despite taking precautions but for now I don't really have a problem it is doing what I wanted just not exactly sure why its working the way it is other than a flaky switch
I know of two kinds of switch port layouts:
one with 1-2-out-3-4,
and one with 2-1-out-3-4.
Which one is yours?
It is sometimes possible to turn the switch in the housing, thus causing port numbers to change.
Only one defective port means usually contact problem in the port, or blown end-transistor for that port inside.
Greetz,
A33
one with 1-2-out-3-4,
and one with 2-1-out-3-4.
Which one is yours?
It is sometimes possible to turn the switch in the housing, thus causing port numbers to change.
Only one defective port means usually contact problem in the port, or blown end-transistor for that port inside.
Greetz,
A33
I know I don't require both but I thought leaving a powered port open to the elements didn't seem like a good idea and I've noticed that sometimes TP's won't lock when LNB power is set "ON" but if I set it 13v or 18v they will lock but I lose other TPs. So I was going to use one output for 13v and the other for 18v. If that makes sense.
On the bright side I was tweaking the dish and I now get 11880 H and 12080 H on 103 something I was never able to do with just a single LNB
Switches operating at 18v and not at 13v it is often an indication of a cable/connector problem or even low 22KHz/DiSEqC signal level from the STB. Signaling can be attenuated by crushed or sharp bends, staples in the jacket, moisture trapped in coax, corrosion in fittings, etc. Some switches require higher control signal levels to reliably switch... or the switch may have simply failed.... 
If you can open the switch (not easy with some switches!) you can measure voltage on the base of the switching transistor (easy to find).
That is often a Darlington pair: in one housing, or as two consecutive (PNP-)transistors.
Contact problem: middle of F-plug corroded, or too wide for center lead from satellite cable.
Hope you find the cause!
Greetz,
A33
Well my satellite time will have to wait till I can replace my receiver. My son pulled the external IR sensor and ripped the port clean off the board and no funds to replace
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