How can I get NASA channel
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It looks GREAT directly from NASA! I'm not sure if they ever use HQ4, but I imagine it might be for occasional use during a mission. STS-120 had just ended when I was helping Kevin point his BUD. I guess I'll just have to work on getting my Paraclipse upheh, I have to laugh...tonite I do a blind scan on AMC8 (for the V side...I scan AMC7 for H) and what pops into the blind scan tonite?
4060 V 26664
hmmm....scan it (30 max quality...mainly 16-20)
HQ1
HQ2
HQ3
HQ4
yep...NASA...HQ4 is black screen but the other 3 are there and holy crap the picture quality blows Dish Compression Network out of the water
So I FINALLY get to see NASA on AMC7
I know, Anole, I know...
way off topic
I have a Syntax 542i which I got last Xmas, and after adjusting it to the SD sources, it's spectacular.
50% of the problem is that you can now see how bad FTA/Dish and some local analog channels really look. -
And of course, when you compare to dazzling digital local HD.... well, any SD pales by comparison.
On my 27" RCA analog set, everything looked uniform, with all the rough edges smeared off.
I couldn't tell Dish locals from a DVD, so I thought they were the same.
A proper calibration of the set really does help with the SD, though.
...and it did look a bit drab, right out of the box.
So, I'd say that today, anyone who still believes the myth, needs to look into the cause and solution.
There's plenty of sparkle in those LCD TVs.
I'd buy another without a second thought.
This myth that SD doesn't look good on LCDs may or may not have ever been true.
I have a Syntax 542i which I got last Xmas, and after adjusting it to the SD sources, it's spectacular.
50% of the problem is that you can now see how bad FTA/Dish and some local analog channels really look. -
And of course, when you compare to dazzling digital local HD.... well, any SD pales by comparison.
On my 27" RCA analog set, everything looked uniform, with all the rough edges smeared off.
I couldn't tell Dish locals from a DVD, so I thought they were the same.
A proper calibration of the set really does help with the SD, though.
...and it did look a bit drab, right out of the box.
So, I'd say that today, anyone who still believes the myth, needs to look into the cause and solution.
There's plenty of sparkle in those LCD TVs.
I'd buy another without a second thought.
I found this
one for sale
But also found the dielectric plate that inserts into the Co rotor2 to convert to circular.
The salesman told me I would loose the linears on C/Ku if this is installed.
Im not quite sure thats true but does anyone else know?
But also found the dielectric plate that inserts into the Co rotor2 to convert to circular.
The salesman told me I would loose the linears on C/Ku if this is installed.
Im not quite sure thats true but does anyone else know?
It is true, but I don't look at Circular C-Band, so ignore me? It would probably be best to stick it in when you want to watch one of those Atlantic Circular satellites and take it out for the rest of the birds? Or get a second dish and use one for Circular and one for Linear?
Al
Al
Looking at that picture, it looks like it has a Circular Ku-Band already attached to the Scaler Ring, or it really looks like it is on the other side of the Corotor 2? If thats what you're talking (and I doubt it, because you mentioned the C-Band insert) about it shouldn't effect anything?
Al
Al
Sorry to confuse
really its 2 solutions to one objective.
To get circular and linear.
The picture is of a C/Ku band with a Ku band circular added to the side of the feedhorn.
The second solution is what Chaparral uses in the co rotor2 wideband and thats a block of teflon inserted into the feedhorn throat.
I have been told by a salesman that when that block is inserted you will lose linear C and Ku.
I havent heard back form Chaparral to confirm this.
Just looking for anyone that can comment if they have done either one of these modifications.
really its 2 solutions to one objective.
To get circular and linear.
The picture is of a C/Ku band with a Ku band circular added to the side of the feedhorn.
The second solution is what Chaparral uses in the co rotor2 wideband and thats a block of teflon inserted into the feedhorn throat.
I have been told by a salesman that when that block is inserted you will lose linear C and Ku.
I havent heard back form Chaparral to confirm this.
Just looking for anyone that can comment if they have done either one of these modifications.
gpat - if you do some reading on the dielectric slab here on the forums, I believe you'll find what you're looking for. I know that I've read others comment on the fact that linear reception greatly degrades with the dielectric slab inserted in the feedhorn for circular c-band reception.
I just got an answer via email from Chaparral.
They say that the block cant be added to a co rotor.
Im not asking to re invent the wheel but it doesnt seem like
that big of a deal.
This is in contradiction to the supplier that says it will work and sells the product.
They say that the block cant be added to a co rotor.
Im not asking to re invent the wheel but it doesnt seem like
that big of a deal.
This is in contradiction to the supplier that says it will work and sells the product.
does this mean it works?
I got a wild hair and thought I would try a Direct TV LNB on my 10 Ft BUD.
I strapped it to the side of the scalar ring with a large hose clamp
and tried to aim it perpendicular to the polar axis.
I was then going to go looking for NASA on 119W but the BUD was already
on T6(93W) I saw such a good signal I blipped it a couple of clicks and this is what came up.
I m sure it was dumb luck to get such a good signal,what it is I dont have the foggiest idea as all Im hooked up to is a DirectTV LNB that says 12.2-12.7 on it.
Im afraid to touch the LNB as I may have already hit the sweet spot.
Will this LNB do circular and linear? what is the signal Im getting?
I read somewhere that RHCP is vertical and LHCP is horz.
I ll try and get a better shot in daylight of my contraption.
I got a wild hair and thought I would try a Direct TV LNB on my 10 Ft BUD.
I strapped it to the side of the scalar ring with a large hose clamp
and tried to aim it perpendicular to the polar axis.
I was then going to go looking for NASA on 119W but the BUD was already
on T6(93W) I saw such a good signal I blipped it a couple of clicks and this is what came up.
I m sure it was dumb luck to get such a good signal,what it is I dont have the foggiest idea as all Im hooked up to is a DirectTV LNB that says 12.2-12.7 on it.
Im afraid to touch the LNB as I may have already hit the sweet spot.
Will this LNB do circular and linear? what is the signal Im getting?
I read somewhere that RHCP is vertical and LHCP is horz.
I ll try and get a better shot in daylight of my contraption.
if that LNB is to the left of the C-Band (if you are in front of the dish) you might be on 82W (Nimiq2)
61.5,82,91,110,119,129,148 are all DBS satellites with the same symbol rate and frequencies so you might be on one of those. Try a transponder scan (scan all) and see what ya get for channels. They may be scrambled but we'll know where you are
and yes R hand polarity is V and left is H
61.5,82,91,110,119,129,148 are all DBS satellites with the same symbol rate and frequencies so you might be on one of those. Try a transponder scan (scan all) and see what ya get for channels. They may be scrambled but we'll know where you are
and yes R hand polarity is V and left is H
A Direct TV LNB will only receive circular satellite signals.
Right Hand polarization and Vertical polarization use the same voltage so some receivers do not differentiate between them. The same goes for Left Hand polarization and Horizontal polarization.
Right Hand polarization and Vertical polarization use the same voltage so some receivers do not differentiate between them. The same goes for Left Hand polarization and Horizontal polarization.
well it was on 91W as I saw after I took the pic.
I then went to 119W and did a scan and guess what popped up NASA!
Whats even more confusing to me is I borrowed this LNB from my neighbor
whos got DirectTV and I told him I would try it but didnt think it would work since
I need 11.7-12.2 but guess the DirectLNB will go lower than what its marked as?
I guess Ive been spoiled by C band this doesnt look near as good as even the analogs.
but the quality is 90.
I tried switching to horizontal and the signal goes into the red so im not sure if the LNB is at fault
or if I need to twist it.
More tuning to do in the daylight hours.
I then went to 119W and did a scan and guess what popped up NASA!
Whats even more confusing to me is I borrowed this LNB from my neighbor
whos got DirectTV and I told him I would try it but didnt think it would work since
I need 11.7-12.2 but guess the DirectLNB will go lower than what its marked as?
I guess Ive been spoiled by C band this doesnt look near as good as even the analogs.
but the quality is 90.
I tried switching to horizontal and the signal goes into the red so im not sure if the LNB is at fault
or if I need to twist it.
More tuning to do in the daylight hours.
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11.7 - 12.2 are linear FTA frequencies, 12.2 - 12.7 are circular FTA frequencies (Very few channels), Nasa is in the 12.2 - 12.7 range so you can pick it up with the DirecTV lnb.
gpat that is a neat trick! Don't think twisting it will make any difference to a circ lnbf... nice engineering there.
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