Horizon to horizon motor issue

[Sinsky]

I picked up this used c band dish maybe 25 years ago and when I remember to use it, it worked ok..... but recently I turned it on and apparently I am getting an error on my Titanium Satellite ASC1 that I am at my western limit.... except that I am not.... the satellite is pointing in the middle of the gear... I pulled the cover off and one of the electrical connectors had broken off (I have no idea what they are and are associated with the little square boxes) and I tried to squeeze the connectors together using a rock to push the connectors together. Does anyone have any ideas what my problem is and how to fix it ? Obviously I hardly have a clue on this stuff. See the photos. First photo shows the connector pushed together by the rock (rock is to the immediate left), Photo 2 shows the little square thing that appears to be associated with determining where the limits lie, you can also see the connectors smashed together with the rock. It is just too small and cramped to do anything with soldering, and even if I could I am afraid if I tried to take the square thing off, the bolt attaching it would break; Photo 3 is a close up. Any work arounds? Or perhaps something I can replace?

 

[Cham]

Those are limit switches for sure, they have to work or things can get messed up. Mouser or Digi-Key would carry replacement switches similar to that with the long tabs, think I've seen them. The connector that came out is likely corroded so not likely possible to repair the switch. Might be a way to get it to work meanwhile, you just need something to break the circuit when the stud on the gear hits the limit (where the original switch would shut off).

Amazon.ca:
Amazon product ASIN B07MK67JGVView: https://www.amazon.ca/Hemobllo-switches-Waterproof-momentary-Button/dp/B07MK67JGV/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=waterproof+momentary+lever+switch&qid=1631190114&sr=8-12


Think these are stdp you want the pins that are normally closed I believe. Just an example, not likely a direct replacement. These are rated at 10 amps (125v), should be ok for 36v motor likely 2-3 amps max considering the usual 16ga long run between controller and motor.

Others might have a line on a direct replacement and/or specs required for the switch, just guessing here. Good luck!

 

[Magic Static]

Yes those are the limit switches and diodes. The switches stop the current flowing to the motor when the pin on the ends of the big gear hit the levers on the switches. The diodes allow the current to flow in the opposite direction when the switches cut power to the motor in one direction.

 

[arlo]

The limit switches would be easy to troubleshoot if you have a multimeter and a little bit of electrical skills.
Or you could just unhook them and use the ASC-1 soft limit settings. I prefer to have both.
The switches are good to have if and "when" the mover goes nuts like mine has in a power flicker.
Those switches don't play too nice out in the weather.

 

[a33]

Yes those are the limit switches and diodes. The switches stop the current flowing to the motor when the pin on the ends of the big gear hit the levers on the switches.

In this case it looks like the setup, that the motor is connected between the two limit switches (where the black wire is drawn in MS' picture), and that the ASC1 motor power is supplied at the two red cables. (The black wire at the top is not there, then.)the motor is connected between the two limit switches
So the principle is the same, but the motor is connected at another place.

Before substituting the switch, I would check if the motor is in fact still OK. You can short circuit the switch for testing purposes, and see if it runs. But be carefull: the limit switch is then not in function then, so keep the motor setup in view during this test! You don't want the setup to run beyond its limits!

NB Motor and diodes should keep their present connections! Don't reverse them; that would mean trouble.

greetz,
A33

 

[Sinsky]

I am an electrical idiot. Is there any way to bypass them? When my sat is at the end of the satellites I can see, I am nowhere near the horizon in either direction, so I think I am ok without the switches. Explain it to me like you are talking to a golden retriever dog.... who doesn't understand satellite tech....

 

[a33]

Your little square box, right to the stone, has two wires connected to it: one is red, the other white.
These two wires are connected to the square box (the switch), and to a little black round barrel type thing: that is de diode.

Short circuiting the switch connections would be: connect an electrical wire to the white and red wire. Easiest would be to connect that wire to the bare metal sides of the diode: there you have the electrical wires easily accessible.

Does this clarify things a bit?

Greetz,
A33

 

[arlo]

Me, I would just find the 2 motor wires and fasten them to the terminal strip where the ASC-1 motor cable is connected. And use the soft limit settings in the controller. Work on the switches and perhaps overhaul the motor later.

 

[Houston Rockets]

I would say that is a good rebuilt project, I would pull the whole assemble down clean and soak everything
and look for parts to substitute for ones you can get working.. I always wanted a H to H setup.

 

[Sinsky]

I would say that is a good rebuilt project, I would pull the whole assemble down clean and soak everything
and look for parts to substitute for ones you can get working.. I always wanted a H to H setup.

Where could I get similar replacement limiter switches? I kinda like the cleaning it all up idea. The motor and everything worked 6 months ago- even with the rock in place... now it doesn't seem to matter- it doesn't work either way.

 

[anto@]

write micro toggle switches on the internet and find everything you want mine also broke and I replaced them I took 10 now I have a spare

 

[arlo]

Ebay item number 293473128346
They are Cherry Microswitches not some chinesium junk.