Hopper Voltage Issue

[gadgtfreek]

While the NEC says 5%, thats to take into account spikes and drops. 120v devices are designed to operate at 120v +/- 10% without issue, once again, period.

If you talk to utilities, thats what they are going by. If they come out to your house and you have 110 volts, or 130, they may check things out, but will deem it "in spec".

The bigger concern for me with regards to a DVR is the HDD, which is why I always keep them on a UPS. Id be a lot more concerned about power outages/flicker than anything else.

 

[3HaloODST]

Of course they'll say it's in-spec, as that means less work for them. My point was that just because one says 5% doesn't mean "they don't know what they're talking about!"

Really for the average home, NEC specifies +/- 3%. So that's 116.4/123.6 volts.

 

[Jeff3243]

The problem is the tech has no idea what he is talking about. The hopper would not power up and the tech said it had burned up due to excessive voltage. He stated the hopper was only rated for 118-122 volts. My house is sitting at 123.6 volts with a hopper for 14 months. If that is the true range of the hopper provide documentation before making the declaration.

If the tech is correct that the hopper will only work between 118-122 volts, then so far no one in my town would qualify. After contacting friends, the lowest voltage in Huntsville, AL so far is 123.1.

 

[jimdandyvi]

Just another couple of pieces of electrical trivia.

Most everyone knows that AC power fluctuates over the sine wave. The volts you see on your meter is a derived number supposed to be equivalent of 120 volts DC. In fact it is approximately 170 volts at the peak.

Most surge protectors don't kick in until 370 volts.

 

[3HaloODST]

No, it's pretty obvious that the tech didn't know what he's talking about. The goal is 120V +/- 3% (116.4/123.6.) Most homes get that. 120V +/- 5% (114/126) is still acceptable, and 120V +/- 10% (108/132) is "acceptable" for short periods of time. Undervoltage in particular is bad, especially on motors and ballasts. It is true, switched-mode power supplies can accept quite a large range, so yes, +/-10% wouldn't make one iota of difference for the Hopper. If your voltage is approaching the 10% mark and staying there consistently, there may be a problem.

Fun fact: Resistive loads (incandescent light bulbs, ovens, heaters, etc.) use MORE wattage as the voltage rises. Say your voltage is 126 volts. Resistive loads will use 10% more power! Light bulbs can also burn out faster, too.

 

[srcronk]

When my HWS was installed in May, the technician had difficulty getting the box to complete the software download. He also cited the rating of the receiver to be 118-122, and my voltage was measured (I think) to be 123V. Turned out that the problem was with the wing dish I had for getting HD locals. After he disconnected that cable, the receiver worked fine, and we have had no trouble with it after about 2 1/2 months of use.

My point is that I, too, heard a technician recently say the same thing that the OP heard about the voltage rating for the Hopper.

 

[bobrown14]

We get between 123VAC and 128VAC here where I live and hopper/Joey work just fine. I've got other WAY more sensitive audio equipment than the Hopper and I get concerned when the voltage gets up to say +126VAC. +-10% fluctuation is expected (from 117VAC) and I would bet even that you won't be able to get the electric supply company to even take a look unless its upwards of ~130VAC. 123VAC is perfect by today's standards and I'd take that every day all day. Noise on the AC coming into the house now that's another worry altogether and I would expect that to be a larger issue with these small devices with regard to operation/power supply regulation. Cheers, Bob