Hopper 3 Audio Sync issue
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This has been reported on our tech portal, also, over the last few months, but no response from the higher-ups
I forgot to mention that before I read Tampa8's post last night, I had also tried disconnecting the HDMI cable from my ViP211k and reconnecting it, and also unplugging the external hard drive and plugging it back in. So, I am not sure if either or both of those steps helped fix my issue. It may be worth trying, though, for others who are having the audio sync issue.
I changed the Volume Leveling to off and will report back. In the audio settings for the H3, there are only two options. Dolby (on or off) and Volume Leveling (on or off). I didn't see any option for 'Decoder' or where I could turn off CEC. Where are those options on the H3?
The CEC is inexplicably in the setup for the remote.
Seems logical to me because with CEC you are remotely turning on the TV when you turn on the receiver.
Like when a woman asks you to "turn the air conditioning down", my left brain male thought is that she wants it to get warmer. That is always wrong.
I thought the H3 still had a power button. Am I misremembering? Mine is in a closet, so I literally don't now. Was there ever a Dish receiver built without a physical power button? If so, then how do you turn it on in order to pair the remote?
More to the point, the 54-series remotes have a single Power button that automatically controls both the receiver and the TV. So, turning one on (TV or receiver) automatically when you turn the other one on is not the primary function of CEC here, since the remote already does that. In this case, CEC is more for automatically changing the input on the TV to the correct input, whenever there is activity on the receiver.
If I remember correctly, the model 1000 did not have any front panel buttons at all. It came with a non-addressable remote that could not control any other components, either. Volume control was done through the receiver, with an on-screen volume bar. (That was really annoying if you were recording something with a VCR, since it would also record the volume bar on screen. Also, if you turned down the volume on the receiver, it would also limit the volume on the recording, no matter how loud you tried to make it with the TV's remote.) So, it was not a universal remote for controlling other components, but it was a "universal" remote for controlling all Dish receivers of the same or similar model. So, you had better not have more than one of them in the same room, or you would end up controlling all of them at the same time. The DTV Pal digital-to-analog converter boxes had the same problem, although Dish did recall those remotes and send out replacement remotes without that issue, if I remember correctly.
My AVR will sometimes come on when I hit the sat then enter button on my remote control and sometimes it will come on after the tv comes on. The problem is when the AVR comes on first before the tv, I get no sound out of the speakers and have to hit the AVR button to turn it off and then on again to get the sound out of the speakers. It changes all the time and there is no rhyme or reason to it. My Wife could never get the sound to come out on the AVR in the bedroom so I turned off the CES control on my joey and now just leave the AVR on at all times so when she turns on the receiver it has sound. Beats the constant yelling from my wife over the issue: " We need to get cable!" When I hear this I think Sacrilege ! After 24 years she wants to go back to CABLE??
Success! For the first time this season, I was able to watch Batwoman without the annoying audio delay issue. Towards the end of the show, there was just starting to be a slight delay that was barely noticeable, and I only saw it because I was looking for it. That is a lot better than it was before. Thanks, Tampa8!
I *THINK* it's better, but I'm still testing. On Saturday, I changed the Volume Leveling to off. I still can't find anywhere to turn on 'Line' as mentioned above. My wife said that her and my niece didn't have the sound issue Saturday night, but they were boozing it up and not really paying attention and also watching a lot of Netflix (from the Dish app). On Sunday, I changed the CEC to off and only an hour or two later, the sound issue re-appeared. So, I turned it on again. Watching stuff Sunday night, I feel like crodrules in that it was better, but because I was really looking for it, it seemed like the might've been off by a little, but way better than before.
One thing I've noticed is that right before the sound gets really messed up, I'll hear a bunch of pops in the audio. 10-15 random pops that aren't really loud, but they are noticeable. As soon as that happens, the sound gets off by 3-4 seconds at least.
I'd still like to figure out where to turn on the 'Line' option to see if that's the last piece of the puzzle. Can someone point me to that?
The Line option no longer exists on Hoppers
Copy that. I don't think it happened yesterday and that would be a big deal because it's happened multiple times a day every day for a few weeks now.
It's happened a couple of times since my last post, but it's not nearly as bad as it was. My next step would be to get a different receiver if it starts getting worse again. I've had the H3 for over a year, so I don't know what happened in the last 5 weeks to start this issue.
My next step will also be to get a new (well, probably refurbished) Hopper 3, and see if it does any better than my ViP211k. I agree that this issue is still happening, although it is not nearly as noticeable as it was before. I will keep everyone posted if it gets worse, or if the Hopper 3 has the same problem when I get one.
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