homemade dish mover idea!

[melgarga]

Just checking in...yes, thank you satphreak for noteing the load resistor. You are correct guapoharry, class D PS/amps are very unstable w/o a minimum constant load. I think the idea was to use decommisioned computer power supplys for the project, so warranty wouldnt be an issue, but the disclaimer was cute if not a bit sarcastic......lol. I had considered harvesting the hall effect fan of a dead one and trying to mod it to use as a pulse generator for a Birdview H/H unit....but thats another thread......anyway......
Saying a person that has worked with electricity and never been bitten is like saying a carpenter has never hit his thumb. Complacency will get you every time. On the other hand bragging about how many times one has been stupid isnt impressive either. I've had a few 'Aw sh*t! I didnt just do that' moments over the passed 40 years or so and I am careful. Fortunately they were all 'glanceing blows' and I wasnt in a position to get locked up, nor was the path across my chest. As was pointed out the deadly isnt the voltage (to a point anyway) it's the current. Everybody's been bit by a lawnmower spark plug wire, or at least anyone who used a mower before the CPSC started idiotproofing everything. The magneto is good for a few k's of voltage on the secondary side but very little current.
No one here ever played Woosie Out ( term modifed for G rating) with an old phone ring generator and a few of your toughest friends? (C'mon RVpop, TVROPro, fess up....lol)
If you dont think 12vdc wont sizzle you, lay a sweaty forearm across the positive terminal and a fender and see how long it take you Git up off of that thang.
It is slower but doesnt take as long as you might think to move at 12v. As I said depending on how it is wound, it may be possible to series the +12 and +5 volt output. That's one problem with the young, they are always in a hurry. To what? Say it with me Fiz, slowly, "hurry up and wait". I wish I could switch to 12v for a fine adustment mode, but the pulse counter expects a pulse in a very small window or it faults.
As for what I am on........well, I cant be specific, but just be thankful that I am Medicated for YOUR Protection..............:yikes

 

[Inno]

12 volts?!?! what are you on? that would take all day to move

i have been shocked many times by 120 in my computer buidling days, doesnt hurt too bad, like someone shaking your arm really fast.

10,000 volts from a plasma lamp does pack a punch though (been there)

lonewolf said he would make that postioner mine for a small price

i have stuff going off ebay sunday, and have a sharp notevision projector to buy, so if i have any money left, il higly consider it

Yup, "back in your good ole' computer buildin' days eh?!?" Yup those were the days. Wet your arm and fingers real good.......then wet your pants! Actually you won't have to it'll be done automatically.
Knock it off........you CLEARLY do not have the necessary experience to be messing with this stuff. As much as we give you a hard time I don't think there is a single one of use that wants to read about some kid electrocuting himself while working on his satellite system.
I've been shocked by televisions (approx 22KV), microwaves (could have been lethal), 120VAC, and yes, even 12VDC....and God only knows what else......and in ALL cases under the right circumstances it could have been much worse than what it was.........did you know that if you get a sufficient shock it will leave both and entry and exit wound? It's true.........in my case the entry wound was at my elbow and the exit wound was out the side of my index finger (near the tip). If it had been across my chest I might not be here to type this to you.

Just because you haven't had a shock sufficient to make you respect electricity doesn't mean you never will. It's true that some people conduct electricity better than others but there is a lethal limit for everybody........be careful!

 

[tvropro]

Hey Fizzle's the Supertech He can build a dc power supply for 24-36 v and logic 5 v then design the counting circuit for counting the pulses on the reed and store them with a micro circuit. When he gets the schematic drawn up he can post it here.

But honestly Fizzle to keep it simple you could rip the transformer out of the old analog receiver look for the 24 to 36 vac taps rectify and filter it to dc. Then use two pbno momentary switches and wire it so that it feeds standard and reverse polarity to the motor. And you would have a working simple mover control, state of the art for 1981. To prevent over run you set the cam in the actuator so the limit switches engage for your limits and cut power. Heck I could build that in a couple hours.

 

[Techfizzle]

Yup, "back in your good ole' computer buildin' days eh?!?" Yup those were the days. Wet your arm and fingers real good.......then wet your pants! Actually you won't have to it'll be done automatically.
Knock it off........you CLEARLY do not have the necessary experience to be messing with this stuff. As much as we give you a hard time I don't think there is a single one of use that wants to read about some kid electrocuting himself while working on his satellite system.
I've been shocked by televisions (approx 22KV), microwaves (could have been lethal), 120VAC, and yes, even 12VDC....and God only knows what else......and in ALL cases under the right circumstances it could have been much worse than what it was.........did you know that if you get a sufficient shock it will leave both and entry and exit wound? It's true.........in my case the entry wound was at my elbow and the exit wound was out the side of my index finger (near the tip). If it had been across my chest I might not be here to type this to you.

Just because you haven't had a shock sufficient to make you respect electricity doesn't mean you never will. It's true that some people conduct electricity better than others but there is a lethal limit for everybody........be careful!

I do respect electricty, I have been never shocked by a tv or microwave, your supposed to discharge the cap in a microwave, or discharge the CRT in a televsion, both can be done with a ground clip and a long insutlated screw driver.

I have been shocked by house current 2-3 times. Once i was putting a fuse in a power supply, second time i was working on a vcr, the 3rd time i can't remember .Once i was dinking arround with a power supply for a flatbed scanner's light, the little 4,000 volt transformer came in contact with my thumb, I couldnt move my arms for a good minute.

Now-a-days i try to be more careful, and unplug stuff before i work on it.

Electronics are becoming too hard to work on, i have installed new cap's in power supplys.

The surface mount technology and dual sided pcb is much too hard to work on.

I just like buidling computers, later this summer i plan on building a fm-radio

excuse my spelling, ive only had 3 hour sleep

 

[SatPhreak]

Thanks melgagra, actually I forgot about those old phones. When I was a kid we had one with a hand crank that we got from my grandmother, and even though it only had a 6 volt battery in when you tried to hold the wire when someone cranked it there was no way you could hang on lol. The battery in those old phones was't what the output voltage was when you cranked it though. The battery was used for talking/listening once the other party picked up, the crank whas used to sent a high enought current to ring the bell on the other end off the line in order to know that someone was calling you.

 

[melgarga]

Thanks melgagra, actually I forgot about those old phones. When I was a kid we had one with a hand crank that we got from my grandmother, and even though it only had a 6 volt battery in when you tried to hold the wire when someone cranked it there was no way you could hang on lol. The battery in those old phones was't what the output voltage was when you cranked it though. The battery was used for talking/listening once the other party picked up, the crank whas used to sent a high enought current to ring the bell on the other end off the line in order to know that someone was calling you.

Yes one of the guys in HS had one and us 'tough guys' would make a circle and someone would crank it increasing in speed until sombody let go. He "woosed out' the circle was closed and the challenge continued. There usually wasnt any argument as to who was the one that let go since it ws pretty easy to read electrified body language....lol
The Bell (NA) standard for ringer voltage/freq is around 70v @ 16hz. I dont know what that damned thing put out, but it was pre standard I'm sure. If you held on loosely, then suddenly squeezed tight with both hands, you could almost always knock somebody out with a jolt.
They work pretty good for ringing up catfish too.....er, uh, I heard that from an old timer, I think he was of the Cajun persuasion Mr. Game Warden.....

 

[freezy]

ok there is not much left on analog, and my drake makes the room hot, plus it takes up space.

im thinking of making something that takes a 36 volt trasformer, housed seperate from the unit (so my computer station is not a heater)

two switches housed on top, for east and west,

a little dial on top, where i can mark satellites

what i need to know is how do you switch dc? if there is only two wires, how do you make something that allows you switch polarties, and induce the voltage to the motor?

use a 3 position double pull double throw switch (dpdt)

the trick is you need the center position "off" in there so it doesn't apply current all the time

 

[tvropro]

use a 3 position double pull double throw switch (dpdt)

the trick is you need the center position "off" in there so it doesn't apply current all the time

Get one thats springs back to center off then you can fine adjust. Or use a relay or two like the big boys do. May be best to put some Mov's and reverse protect diodes in there to prevent reverse current flow and spikes.

 

[Inno]

I do respect electricty, I have been never shocked by a tv or microwave, your supposed to discharge the cap in a microwave, or discharge the CRT in a televsion, both can be done with a ground clip and a long insutlated screw driver.

I have been shocked by house current 2-3 times. Once i was putting a fuse in a power supply, second time i was working on a vcr, the 3rd time i can't remember .Once i was dinking arround with a power supply for a flatbed scanner's light, the little 4,000 volt transformer came in contact with my thumb, I couldnt move my arms for a good minute.

Now-a-days i try to be more careful, and unplug stuff before i work on it.

Electronics are becoming too hard to work on, i have installed new cap's in power supplys.

The surface mount technology and dual sided pcb is much too hard to work on.

I just like buidling computers, later this summer i plan on building a fm-radio

excuse my spelling, ive only had 3 hour sleep

Thanks for the tips..........I'm well aware of the correct procedures for discharging equipment but when you are troubleshooting sometimes it has to be live.

There is also a range of current (very small) that will send your heart into fibrillation. I'm not sure what that range is but anything less and you will not suffer any damage and any more and it is strong enough to make all your muscles contract strongly (including your heart) then release when you let go.....you'll be sore but you will likely survive if you don't slam your head into something solid or cause some other bodily damage. But in that magical range your heart starts to vibrate (instead of contract strongly) or fibrillate. This can be (and often is) deadly!
Of course all of this depends on the situation and there are no hard and fast rules.......... one thing I learned a long time ago is that if you are unsure, keep one hand behind your back. That way if electricity enters through your other hand, it likely will not travel across your chest and out your other hand (which if not behind your back will likely be grounded somewhere!), thus traveling through your heart.

 

[guapoharry]

I do respect electricty, I have been never shocked by a tv or microwave, your supposed to discharge the cap in a microwave, or discharge the CRT in a televsion, both can be done with a ground clip and a long insutlated screw driver. ...

Uh, don't forget the big resistor in that discharger to safely limit the current...

lets see here, you dont need a $79 g-box when a $30 dollar receiver off ebay will steer the bud, and get you analog

Not such a good idea now?

 

[eurosport]

Originally Posted by Techfizzle
lets see here, you dont need a $79 g-box when a $30 dollar receiver off ebay will steer the bud, and get you analog

Not such a good idea now?

ROFL!!!! :up

 

[Pismire]

ROFL!!!! :up

Think you forgot to take your pills.

 

[Inno]

If that's the case I forgot to take mine too!!!

ROFL!!!!! HYSTERICALLY!!!!

 

[Inno]

Thanks melgagra, actually I forgot about those old phones. When I was a kid we had one with a hand crank that we got from my grandmother, and even though it only had a 6 volt battery in when you tried to hold the wire when someone cranked it there was no way you could hang on lol. The battery in those old phones was't what the output voltage was when you cranked it though. The battery was used for talking/listening once the other party picked up, the crank whas used to sent a high enought current to ring the bell on the other end off the line in order to know that someone was calling you.

Fast forward to modern times..........I was under my first house splicing phone wires and did not have my strippers on me and didn't want to crawl up out of the crawl space to get 'em..........so of course I'm using the next best thing.........my teeth.........and the $#%@ phone rings...........red wire on my tongue, green wire on my cheek.......I've heard things said tongue in cheek before but I'm pretty sure I meant every word I said after that!

 

[eurosport]

Think you forgot to take your pills.

LOL! I know- and I was doing so good too!
FIZZLE-FREE for over 2 WEEKS! -And now this.
Right off the damn wagon!
:rant:It's all guapoharry's fault...:rant:
...for posting some more FUNNY FIZZLE-SHIZZLE!!!

 

[Techfizzle]

Fast forward to modern times..........I was under my first house splicing phone wires and did not have my strippers on me and didn't want to crawl up out of the crawl space to get 'em..........so of course I'm using the next best thing.........my teeth.........and the $#%@ phone rings...........red wire on my tongue, green wire on my cheek.......I've heard things said tongue in cheek before but I'm pretty sure I meant every word I said after that!

if you use a ac to dc converter, you can bum eletricity from the phone company

ive stripped wires with my teeth, but i try not to do that anymore:tux:

 

[Dale_Gribble]

I've been moving my 8 foot aluminum bud with a center off type dpdt switch an a 12 volt/850ma power supply for a couple of months now. There are mechanical limit switches and diodes in the motor. The limit switches can be adjusted. I forget what the name brand of the motor is, but maybe tommorow I can take a picture of the limit switches and show how they are adjusted.

I actually like the slower speed, it helps to go slower when there is no position sensor to tell you where the hell the dish is pointing. There's really only 2 downsides to doing it this way, no position sensor and no wireless remote control. I can live without the remote control, but I have to do something about the lac of a position sensor. I've already tried a GM fuel gauge sending unit at the dish wired to an an ohmeter in the house, it worked good about 50% of the time, but it gave a lot of erratic readings too. I know someone who had one of those early 1980's BUD setups, the dish controller was seperate from the receiver. There was a 4 digit display that told you where the dish was, it worked well (although the numbers were not the same as the degree number of the satellite.) Sure would like to have that old dish controller, but of course it's long gone now. If I ever get something built that works well I will post it here.

 

[guapoharry]

...I actually like the slower speed, it helps to go slower when there is no position sensor to tell you where the hell the dish is pointing. There's really only 2 downsides to doing it this way, no position sensor and no wireless remote control. I can live without the remote control, but I have to do something about the lac of a position sensor. I've already tried a GM fuel gauge sending unit at the dish wired to an an ohmeter in the house, it worked good about 50% of the time, but it gave a lot of erratic readings too. ...

Honorable Mention....

 

[Inno]

I've been moving my 8 foot aluminum bud with a center off type dpdt switch an a 12 volt/850ma power supply for a couple of months now. There are mechanical limit switches and diodes in the motor. The limit switches can be adjusted. I forget what the name brand of the motor is, but maybe tommorow I can take a picture of the limit switches and show how they are adjusted.

I actually like the slower speed, it helps to go slower when there is no position sensor to tell you where the hell the dish is pointing. There's really only 2 downsides to doing it this way, no position sensor and no wireless remote control. I can live without the remote control, but I have to do something about the lac of a position sensor. I've already tried a GM fuel gauge sending unit at the dish wired to an an ohmeter in the house, it worked good about 50% of the time, but it gave a lot of erratic readings too. I know someone who had one of those early 1980's BUD setups, the dish controller was seperate from the receiver. There was a 4 digit display that told you where the dish was, it worked well (although the numbers were not the same as the degree number of the satellite.) Sure would like to have that old dish controller, but of course it's long gone now. If I ever get something built that works well I will post it here.

Of all the fuel gauge sending units you had to choose the WORST one on the market! That's probably half your problem there.

Honorable mention? Oh yeah!

 

[digiblur]

if you use a ac to dc converter, you can bum eletricity from the phone company

Um....yeah... if you used a DC to AC converter instead and someone kept calling your phone.