Home-Brew Satellite Dish

[thomas34461usa]

schedule 40 PVC pipe for the Feed-horn support

Well I have the dish home.

The diameter from the tip of the outer edge to the other outer edge is 6 foot 4 inches.

I put the string test on it, and it is perfect as far as not being warped.

What the guy said was true because the paint has peeled off a small area exposing the solid aluminum sheet on the reflector side with fiberglass on the back side for stability.

He only bought the reflector part from some manufacturer, and hand made the mount, the elevation and declination adjustments, the motor drive, and the electronic positioner wired through a calculator with display on the front. Pretty smart guy, but I will probably just hook up his motor drive to a GBox.

The online calculations show it to have a Focal distance of 25.7 inches, and an F/D ration of 0.34, so it is almost average as far as depth. I will have pictures a little later. My wife just got back with the camera, and I'll have to off-load all of their pictures before I can use it.

The Feed-horn support is made out of schedule 40 PVC pipe, and after studying it a while, I think it might not be a bad way to make one. I will need to figure out a way to adjust the height unless he has it right on the money.

I think it is going to be fun to play with, and might be a secondary Ku testing unit on the parking lot out front.

His polar mount is very simplistic in the way he designed it, and the mover design is a hoot.

But hey, if it works, I will not complain.

Hey Fred,
Congraduations on your new dish. It does look like it is an interesting one too. Certaintly one that had some kind of thought going into it for design, like using schedule 40 PVC pipe for the Feed-horn support. Can't wait to see lots of pictures of it in the future. From looking at the photo.... is that a bungee cord attached to the dish to the support bars?

Thanks,
TOM



P.S. On that other dish that you found and the one that AL thought was used for keep out Terrestrial Interference. Maybe it could be a way to contact some Extra Terrestrial for beaming somebody away??? You know what I mean without saying any names!

 

[linuxman]

is that a bungee cord attached to the dish to the support bars?

Nah, that is a garage door spring attached to provide tension on the dish when it moves. When it stops, the spring keeps everything tight.

I'll have to get it hooked up to see how all that works.

P.S. On that other dish that you found and the one that AL thought was used for keep out Terrestrial Interference. Maybe it could be a way to contact some Extra Terrestrial for beaming somebody away??? You know what I mean without saying any names!

HeHe!

 

[linuxman]

Well the heat got to me yesterday afternoon, and my wife got home from Church Camp with the camera, but I was whooped and didn't do anything else yesterday.

I started dissecting the parts and lubing everything up in preparation for re-assembly on my parking lot at least temporarily this morning early.

I am starting with the motor/ drive assembly.

The guy gave me a whole file folder with schematics and articles, but nothing for the motor. It looks like an ordinary motor used on a lot of satellite dishes, but the markings have long since dis-appeared. He said it was 12 or 24 volts. I also got the had manufactured electronic box he used to move it wired through a calculator which I have included a picture of with that I also have his hand drawn schematics for. I can hook the meter to it to see what voltage it outputs.

The threaded rod you see is standard 5/8" all-thread with 11 threads per inch. It is out about 9.5 inches and will screw further onto the rod down to about 2 inches, so that is about 7 inches of travel further East. The entire rod is 26 inches long, so it should allow me to see a pretty good chunk of the arc. He made the outside of the rod out of conduit and welded universal joints on each end.

The motor has a glass-covered reed switch, and a magnet on the other end of the motor shaft which he said produced one click per revolution. If that isn't accurate enough, I have several small magnet wheels that I can attach and get up to 8 pulses per revolution. I am assuming that I will have to do that because 11 pusles per inch of travel just won't cut it with Ku signal. Probably won't cut it with C-Band digital either.

But that being said, the motor looks like it wires up just like any other motor with M1 and M2 for power plus the two wires for the magnet wheel pulses. It should hook right up to the GBox and take off.

I'll probably just take the motor off and fix the magnet wheel before I put it all together.

Here are the pics. Let me know what you think.

 

[linuxman]

Well, I successfully got a 6 pole magnet wheel mounted on the motor shaft, and got rid of the glass encased sensor switch and hot-glued a new one in it's place.

Hooked up the GBox to it, and I get 6 pulses per revolution of the shaft. That's 66 pulses per inch of thread X conservatively 14 inches of the arc equals 924 pulses. That may not be enough for close accuracy, but it is a lot closer than what was there with one or two per revolution. I'll have to see where the rod hooks onto the dish and how it acts before I can say if it is enough or not.

I get 6 pulses, but the GBox show 12 on the front display. I might try moving the sensor a little further away and see if I can get the same mileage I did out of another actuator and have twelve actual pulses instead of 6. I kinda doubt it because the wheel is not big enough making the distance between poles too small to get both ends of the pole.

Here is a pic of the new motor/sensor:

 

[gpat]

Just got off the phone with the guy and I am going to go pick it up tomorrow morning.

I'll figure out what to do with it later.

The guy said that he didn't make the dish, he only made the mount and tracking mechanism. The dish was commercially made. I asked if it was mesh inside, and he said that it was solid metal encased in fiberglass.

Don't know who would have made a dish like that, but I guess I'll find out.


I hope you dont fry any LNBs as the gain can be quite high with a solid dish vs mesh.Might be better to purposely unaim it a little
so that all the surface area isnt picking it up.Did you say LNA is what he has on it?yea that is old. I havent used an LNA in 20 yrs.

 

[linuxman]

hope you dont fry any LNBs as the gain can be quite high with a solid dish vs mesh.Might be better to purposely unaim it a little
so that all the surface area isnt picking it up.Did you say LNA is what he has on it?yea that is old. I havent used an LNA in 20 yrs.

The surface is painted except a small hole where the paint has peeled off. The LNB won't fry because of heat/sunlight.

I personally have never heard of a solid dish frying an LNB because of too much gain. I can only hope the gain is that high.

Yes, it has an LNA and Block down converter on it right now, but once I put it up it will have an LNB or LNBF.

I am thinking of trying my Geosat Pro C/KU LNBF on it simply because I don't expect to get that much C-Band anyway, and it will be very easy to adjust even on my TS satellite. It is very low to the ground so I can just walk up to it and make adjustments.

 

[Anole]

I just love the green fishing tackle box. - :up
I have a red one just like it for my electronic tools.
Got it when I was a tech for Century Data, in the 70's.

Haven't figured out just what the heck the motor does.
Can you get few a full sized shots from the back side of the dish, where the moving parts are?
Maybe have a human stand beside it to give scale.
And point to the thing that moves the dish.
Putting the drive motor on the ground is interesting... but I'm not understanding the geometry of the drive system.
Also, before you write off your total number of pulses, you really should measure how much of the sky that encompasses.
Might be plenty

Now, as to the counts, remember, we were figuring your Gbox counted once on the contact closure and once on the contact opening.
That'd give it 12 counts per revolution of your 6-magnet wheel.
Cool that you just happened to have one on hand! - :up
Good thing you didn't use one of your 24-pole wheels... or, maybe you could make one with 12..16 magnets...?

Anxious to hear more about how the GeoSat CK-1 handles.
One band or the other should work fine... maybe both.

 

[linuxman]

I just love the green fishing tackle box. -
I have a red one just like it for my electronic tools.
Got it when I was a tech for Century Data, in the 70's.

Hey, it's been working for him all these years.

Haven't figured out just what the heck the motor does.
Can you get few a full sized shots from the back side of the dish, where the moving parts are?
Maybe have a human stand beside it to give scale.
And point to the thing that moves the dish.

Haven't got that far in the assembly yet, but in the pictures below, you can see the shaft sticking out of the tackle box. A threaded rod with a U-Joint hooks onto that and extends to the back mount frame on the dish. For perspective, the top of the elevation axis bar hits me right at the chest standing right next to it.

Putting the drive motor on the ground is interesting... but I'm not understanding the geometry of the drive system.

Hopefully later today, I'll get the dish mounted on it and we can all take a close look.

Also, before you write off your total number of pulses, you really should measure how much of the sky that encompasses.
Might be plenty

I hope you are right.

Now, as to the counts, remember, we were figuring your Gbox counted once on the contact closure and once on the contact opening.
That'd give it 12 counts per revolution of your 6-magnet wheel.
Cool that you just happened to have one on hand! -
Good thing you didn't use one of your 24-pole wheels... or, maybe you could make one with 12..16 magnets...?

The GBox does give 12 counts on the display, but only stops at every two. So I am assuming the magnets are too close together to allow stopping on the close and open part of the cycle.

Anxious to hear more about how the GeoSat CK-1 handles.
One band or the other should work fine... maybe both.

Who knows, the Geosat may have been made for just this type of dish.

We'll soon see!

Here are some more pics:

 

[linuxman]

Just for you Anole.

My wife and I went out this morning and put the dish on the mount.

I have detailed pictures below of the whole thing.

I'm not sure I will like the U-Joints setup. They seem to have a little slop in them and want to bind a little while I was hand turning the tube on the threaded rod. He had it set at about 9.5 inches out, but I don't know what satellite he had it aimed at, so I screwed it out to about 11.5 inches and it is pointing at my South. The threads can travel a total of about 22 inches, so this should be about center.

You will see the spring, and I am think that is to keep tension on the U-Joints so they won't bind. I'll have to get a new spring if I keep that setup. It wouldn't be to much of a problem to put a real actuator on it, but I am keeping my mind open. Or perhaps moving the tackle box to a different spot for less angle on the U-Joints.

I checked the elevation and declination, and he has it set almost dead on.

You can see, that he had everything wired up pretty well. He was using Cat-5 cable and double pairing the wires. There is a DB9 connector in the bottom of the center for the polarotor wires. I will take that out too.

The bottom center piece is nothing more than a PVC cap bolted onto the dish with splits in the sides to allow for slipping the center tube into it and tightening.

I'll have to explore what his Focal Length vs. the online calculations as the next part of the project.

BTW, the motor sounds like a machine gun. Not loud, but a constant clack as it moves. Don't know whether that is normal or not, but it moves ok and there is no smoke.

Before I do much overhauling, I want to get it hooked up and see what kind of signal I get.

Here are the pics:

 

[Anole]

Love the welded bed-frame construction, and the big hinge used for elevation pivot!
This guy really solved a lot of problems, and he did it well! - :up

The declination adjustment bolts are quite clever, too.
I'll have to put mine on the bottom just to be different, if I ever build such a mount.

Kudos too, for the elevation adjusting turnbuckles.
Go a little too far with the rear one when tightening it?
No problem; just crank on the two out front to compensate.
That main square tube just gets put into tension, but is too stiff to mess with the dish pivot hinge

Not sure what to say about that garage door spring, though.
Seems like a harsh way to pre-load all the floppy bits to one side.
I guess as long as the motor and screw don't care, and the pivots 'n hinges can handle it, then it does get the job done!
The alternative would have been to make everything very tight 'n accurate.

I'm liking the plastic pipe for holding the LNBF.
It removes any load to the sides of the dish, which might distort it in operation.
Sure, you could attach to the same points and with the same bolts which secure the bedframe in the rear, but this is elegant.

If I ever get a Prodelin 6' dish, it'll need some way to motorize it.
Even thought it's an offset, your pictures still give some good ideas and imaginative solutions to the problems.

I know you won't be using the original calculator/motor controller, but if you get a chance to figure out what he did with that, it'd probably be a hoot.
I suspect he's got a handwritten table of satellite IDs with a related count.
Perhaps you punch in the count for the desired bird, and the motor slews 'till you get there, maybe actuating some key every time his magnet went around, to increment/decrement the count.
Doesn't look like a scientific calculator, so it probably can't compute angles.

 

[linuxman]

Love the welded bed-frame construction, and the big hinge used for elevation pivot!
This guy really solved a lot of problems, and he did it well! - :up

The declination adjustment bolts are quite clever, too.
I'll have to put mine on the bottom just to be different, if I ever build such a mount.

Kudos too, for the elevation adjusting turnbuckles.
Go a little too far with the rear one when tightening it?
No problem; just crank on the two out front to compensate.
That main square tube just gets put into tension, but is too stiff to mess with the dish pivot hinge

Not sure what to say about that garage door spring, though.
Seems like a harsh way to pre-load all the floppy bits to one side.
I guess as long as the motor and screw don't care, and the pivots 'n hinges can handle it, then it does get the job done!
The alternative would have been to make everything very tight 'n accurate.

I think he did a pretty good job using ordinary items that can be found at any hardware store.

I'm liking the plastic pipe for holding the LNBF.
It removes any load to the sides of the dish, which might distort it in operation.
Sure, you could attach to the same points and with the same bolts which secure the bedframe in the rear, but this is elegant.

I think you are right about trying to use support arms from the sides. It would probably cause a distortion of the dish just to hold the feed-horn up. The more I have thought about it, this might really be a solution to guys that have "sagging" button-hooks on their dishes.

BTW, the pipe is not schedule 40 PVC. It is plastic drain pipe 6" ID (6.25" OD)and about 1/8" thick walls. Like the Birdview mast pole, the size of the pipe is what gives it strength. It fits perfectly just inside the Chaparral scaler ring.

The only problem that I can forsee is that his pipe is too short. From my measurements of the dish diameter and depth, the Focal Length (center of the dish to the 1/4" inside the mouth of the feed-horn) is 25.7 inches.

He has the Focal Length at 22-3/8 inches and has a Gold Ring on the feed-horn. The dish is not nearly deep enough to call for a Gold Ring. You need to be at a .28 F/D ratio for that non-sense. and the F/D on this dish is .34!

I bought some L brackets at Lowes a while ago, and I am going to mount them to the plastic pipe and the outside of my feed-horn and use an idea right out of Mike Kohl's playbook to move the feed-horn out to my specs and then can easily move it in one crank at a time until I get the best signal.

If I ever get a Prodelin 6' dish, it'll need some way to motorize it.
Even thought it's an offset, your pictures still give some good ideas and imaginative solutions to the problems.

He used some ideas that I had never thought about, but then I have a few of his articles that he used to get those ideas circa 1985.

I know you won't be using the original calculator/motor controller, but if you get a chance to figure out what he did with that, it'd probably be a hoot.
I suspect he's got a handwritten table of satellite IDs with a related count.
Perhaps you punch in the count for the desired bird, and the motor slews 'till you get there, maybe actuating some key every time his magnet went around, to increment/decrement the count.
Doesn't look like a scientific calculator, so it probably can't compute angles.

There is a table with counts for each satellite.

He said that the magnet was wired through the plus one on the calculator so that every time it clicked the calculator added one to the display. If you would like it and the schematics that go with it, I can ship it to you.

If it wasn't so stinking hot and muggy here, I could get more done. As it is, I can only work a short while in the mornings and very late in the evening for a short time.

I am looking forward to getting it hooked up and snag a signal.

 

[linuxman]

Ok Guys,

The only problem that I can forsee is that his pipe is too short. From my measurements of the dish diameter and depth, the Focal Length (center of the dish to the 1/4" inside the mouth of the feed-horn) is 25.7 inches.

He has the Focal Length at 22-3/8 inches and has a Gold Ring on the feed-horn. The dish is not nearly deep enough to call for a Gold Ring. You need to be at a .28 F/D ratio for that non-sense. and the F/D on this dish is .34!

I bought some L brackets at Lowes a while ago, and I am going to mount them to the plastic pipe and the outside of my feed-horn and use an idea right out of Mike Kohl's playbook to move the feed-horn out to my specs and then can easily move it in one crank at a time until I get the best signal.

Here it is. The Mike Kohl Method of adjusting the feed-horn to get the best signal.

I set the GeoSat Pro C/KU LNBF at about .34 F/D ratio as best as I can guess. There aren't any markings to tell for sure.

I have the focal length set at 25-1/2" with 1/4" inside the mouth of the Feed-horn and allowing for 1/4" at the bottom for the PVC cap bolted onto the reflector.

So everything should be read to start tuning at this point. Mike Kohl's method uses the stove bolts as you can see, but ordinarily they would be the other way around and the screw part through the scalar ring with the adjustments through the slots on the support arms of an ordinary dish.

But this method will allow me to gradually and incrementally move the feed-horn in and out to get best signal without having to adjust the F/D ratio. Mike sent me these bolts to use on the Pinnacle which I have never gotten around to using and he gave me detailed instructions on their use.

So here is the setup, and over the next few days when I get the wire run and things set up, I am going to try it.

Here are a couple of pics:

 

[Anole]

peak that signal, null that noise!

I've given this whole idea some thought before.
Not fully understanding everything, I came to my own conclusions.
Perhaps I've overlooked something . . .
It would require decoupling the LNBF from the scalar, because moving them together just makes no sense to me.
That's like changing two variables in an equation at one time.

I know the following is very difficult, but hear me out:

#1. mount the LNBF 'n peak the signal for highest level on a bird in some quiet part of the sky.
The scalar ring should be out of the picture, or pulled back on the LNBF as far (close to the coax connector) as reasonably possible.

#2. move the dish to a cluttered part of the sky, with adjacent satellites.
Bring the scalar forward (toward the dish), looking for lowest noise, best BER, or max Quality, whatever you have that you can measure.

I haven't been able to field test the theory.
But, did plan to mount a CK1 or B1sat on the 6' Prodelin with its own bracket, peak it, then hang the scalar onto the LNBF as a second step.

Makes no sense to me to bolt down a scalar, nor set the F/D, as a starting point for this entire adjustment cycle.
Especially, when you have no F/D guidelines to go by.


So, now that you have your scalar backed away from the dish, I'd inch the CK1 in and out by itself, looking for the best Quality.
THEN, I'd measure the dish-to-lip* distance on the CK1, and move the scalar toward the dish 1/16th or whatever increments you like, but hold the dish-to-lip* constant!


Likewise, I have been unable to locate the forum post I ran across some time back, which showed a simple way to figure the F/D on an unmarked scalar/LNBF combination.
Neither the CK1 nor the B1sat have any markings.


* - distance from the center of the dish, to the lip of the LNBF

 

[voomvoom]

The suspense is killing me..... come on Fred... do something.... now, don't wait till tomorrow....???

 

[linuxman]

I've given this whole idea some thought before.
Not fully understanding everything, I came to my own conclusions.
Perhaps I've overlooked something . . .
It would require decoupling the LNBF from the scalar, because moving them together just makes no sense to me.
That's like changing two variables in an equation at one time.

I think that is the whole point. By setting the F/D ratio, you have eliminated one variable of the equation.

I know the following is very difficult, but hear me out:

#1. mount the LNBF 'n peak the signal for highest level on a bird in some quiet part of the sky.
The scalar ring should be out of the picture, or pulled back on the LNBF as far (close to the coax connector) as reasonably possible.

#2. move the dish to a cluttered part of the sky, with adjacent satellites.
Bring the scalar forward (toward the dish), looking for lowest noise, best BER, or max Quality, whatever you have that you can measure.

If I remember correctly, the scalar ring's main function is to block unwanted or bad signal wherever it comes from, but primarily TI. Blocking interference from adjacent satellites is a side-lobe function.

There are other signals bouncing around in the dish that the scalar ring kills. Like refracted signal which could cause interference. The scalar stops that from continuing to bounce around.

I haven't been able to field test the theory.
But, did plan to mount a CK1 or B1sat on the 6' Prodelin with its own bracket, peak it, then hang the scalar onto the LNBF as a second step.

Makes no sense to me to bolt down a scalar, nor set the F/D, as a starting point for this entire adjustment cycle.
Especially, when you have no F/D guidelines to go by.

I agree that it is very difficult when you have no F/D guidelines, but you have to start somewhere.

So, now that you have your scalar backed away from the dish, I'd inch the CK1 in and out by itself, looking for the best Quality.
THEN, I'd measure the dish-to-lip* distance on the CK1, and move the scalar toward the dish 1/16th or whatever increments you like, but hold the dish-to-lip* constant!

Perhaps someone with more knowledge can answer with something clearer on the function of the scalar.

Likewise, I have been unable to locate the forum post I ran across some time back, which showed a simple way to figure the F/D on an unmarked scalar/LNBF combination.
Neither the CK1 nor the B1sat have any markings.

* - distance from the center of the dish, to the lip of the LNBF

And that's a real shame. I saw when you posted it but didn't take any action at the time because I had no need. Now I do, but like you haven't been able to find it.

Most of the process of adjusting the whole assembly started when there was no setting for the F/D on the feed-horn. It was pre-cast and you bought the one designed for your dish. They manufactured them for deep dishes, flat dishes, and middle of the road dishes.

Now that they have an adjustment doesn't mean you can arbitrarily use that setting as an adjustment tool. The setting is there to allow you to be more precise in setting the F/D. Granted on the CK1 and the BSC621, that is a moot point, but the principle remains. Adjustment of the Focal Length is with the whole assembly not just the tube sticking out.

Thanks Al,

I am working on it when I can. It's hotter than blue blazes here with humidity that is thick enough to wring out water from the air with your bare hands.

 

[linuxman]

Man I am lucky!!!

I have been working on this project the last couple of days, but have had other things to do and it is so stinking hot.

I got out there this morning in my shorts and t-shirt. No sense sweating up a whole clean change of clothes.

I assembled the terminal block, and finished hooking up the wires from the motor and the LNBF to my cable box that I always put on my dishes. Moved my handy-dandy tune-up box to the dish, setup an umbrella, and turned everything on.

BAM!!! I had the CW at about 30% SQ using my Pansat 3500 on G-11 C-Band moved the dish over a few clicks and now have it at 60%. Still no Ku on G11.

Moved the dish over to G28 and got the Pentagon channel, and have Ku on G28.

I haven't touched anything as far as elevation, or moving the feed-horn in or out. I have the Focal Length set where the calculations say it should be. Haven't even adjusted polarity yet. I hope I don't have to.

I am going to try a few more satellites off of center to see where I am. All I might have to do is move the whole assembly on the pole to have it all set.

Wouldn't that be sweet?

I love working on the ground with this little dish. I can actually easily reach and adjust the LNBF standing in front with it on my TS Satellite. The LNBF is about 3 inches above my head. I can bend forward and touch the cover with my head.

We got signal Al. I think I am really going to like this little dish. WooHoo!!!

Here are some pictures:

 

[thomas34461usa]

Looking Great

Hey Fred,
Looking great so far and I look forward to seeing your work on it each day via this thread. I really find the Feedhorn assembly unique using the PCP Pipe. Is this setup using the PCP Pipe just for this dish or can it be used for other dishes where you would have to replace the metal feedhorn bar?

I also like your design of your handy-dandy tune-up box. What a great idea you have there Fred! Keeping cool underneath your umbrella and hooking the wires from the dish to your portable handy-dandy tune-up box and using a shield to keep the glare away from the screen. Great Idea!

I also took notice of your Birdview in the crate next to your house. Reminds me of mine! I have mine stored inside my garage. I took down a whole lot of trees in my backyard so that I would have a clearer and broader line of site. Got a good “LOS” now. Shortly after that I got real sick with C.O.P.D. and it’s been real hard for me to breathe, and have enough energy to do anything! I never smoked but got sick a lot with bad cases of Bronchitis. The good news is that I’m getting better now. During the spring the pollen can do a number on me! I’m excited and anxious too to get out there and remove the last of what I have to do with the trees out there and dig a new hole for my Birdview Pole! : Just want to be top notch before I start working.


Thanks,
Tom

Man I am lucky!!!

I have been working on this project the last couple of days, but have had other things to do and it is so stinking hot.

I got out there this morning in my shorts and t-shirt. No sense sweating up a whole clean change of clothes.

I assembled the terminal block, and finished hooking up the wires from the motor and the LNBF to my cable box that I always put on my dishes. Moved my handy-dandy tune-up box to the dish, setup an umbrella, and turned everything on.

BAM!!! I had the CW at about 30% SQ using my Pansat 3500 on G-11 C-Band moved the dish over a few clicks and now have it at 60%. Still no Ku on G11.

Moved the dish over to G28 and got the Pentagon channel, and have Ku on G28.

I haven't touched anything as far as elevation, or moving the feed-horn in or out. I have the Focal Length set where the calculations say it should be. Haven't even adjusted polarity yet. I hope I don't have to.

I am going to try a few more satellites off of center to see where I am. All I might have to do is move the whole assembly on the pole to have it all set.

Wouldn't that be sweet?

I love working on the ground with this little dish. I can actually easily reach and adjust the LNBF standing in front with it on my TS Satellite. The LNBF is about 3 inches above my head. I can bend forward and touch the cover with my head.

We got signal Al. I think I am really going to like this little dish. WooHoo!!!

Here are some pictures:

View attachment 27401 View attachment 27402 View attachment 27403

 

[linuxman]

Hey Fred,
Looking great so far and I look forward to seeing your work on it each day via this thread. I really find the Feedhorn assembly unique using the PCP Pipe. Is this setup using the PCP Pipe just for this dish or can it be used for other dishes where you would have to replace the metal feedhorn bar?

Hi Thomas,

I think it could be used for any dish. So far it is working well. I'll have to see it work over the long haul. On the other hand, it has been up quite a few years now.

I also like your design of your handy-dandy tune-up box. What a great idea you have there Fred! Keeping cool underneath your umbrella and hooking the wires from the dish to your portable handy-dandy tune-up box and using a shield to keep the glare away from the screen. Great Idea!

Thanks, I wrote about it in a thread in the FTA section with pictures when I first built it.

I also took notice of your Birdview in the crate next to your house. Reminds me of mine! I have mine stored inside my garage. I took down a whole lot of trees in my backyard so that I would have a clearer and broader line of site. Got a good “LOS” now. Shortly after that I got real sick with C.O.P.D. and it’s been real hard for me to breathe, and have enough energy to do anything! I never smoked but got sick a lot with bad cases of Bronchitis. The good news is that I’m getting better now. During the spring the pollen can do a number on me! I’m excited and anxious too to get out there and remove the last of what I have to do with the trees out there and dig a new hole for my Birdview Pole! : Just want to be top notch before I start working.


Thanks,
Tom

I hope you are getting better now. I know what it is like to try and get something done when you don't feel well.

I only worked on it another half hour or so after I posted this morning. Just got too hot.

I tried the whole assembly thing, and it didn't help much. I did get Ku on G11. I need to raise or lower the elevation just a smidge.

I'll try that tomorrow morning.

 

[linuxman]

I managed to get out and do a little setup on the dish this morning before it got too terribly hot.

I am now getting C and Ku from G13 127W to AMC6 72W.

Is the signal great? Not yet!

The fact that I can get Ku at all from G18 123W to AMC6 at 72W tells me that it is tracking the arc pretty well.

Tomorrow I'll try adjusting the polarity. I think it is leaning a little heavily on the V side. I will then try moving the LNBF in a little and see what happens.

I redesigned the feed-horn adjuster to make it a little easier to operate. I flattened out the elbows and ran a bolt through the scaler to allow the nuts on the stove bolt to operate freely.

Here is a pic:

 

[gremlin411]

If I ever get a Prodelin 6' dish, it'll need some way to motorize it.
Even thought it's an offset, your pictures still give some good ideas and imaginative solutions to the problems.



Anole,
sorry to high jack this great thread but you know that Prodelin does have a polar mount for their 6' offset dish.


Hey linuxman nice setup you have. and that looks like a fun project keep us posted.