Has enyone heard for sure on amount of RG6 cables needed from switch to server including OTA antenna. I only have two to my network hub and i'm getting ready to put drywall up at the end of the month. Thank's Guys.
HMC Wiring Question
- Thread starter twodutys
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I really haven't got a clue. But aside from the cost, what's the harm in putting in some extra lines?
Take it from me. You simply can't have enough wire installed before the drywall goes up. Once everything is finished, its a real pain in the butt to add more later.
You don't have to terminate everything up front but at least pull plenty of wire.
I'd add at least one phone line, one Cat 5e line, and two coax lines in every single location you think you might want to put a TV, even the kids rooms, guest rooms, etc. I would also make sure to centralize everything if possible in an easy to access location. I put most of my stuff in a closet near the media room.
First chance to do it right up front vs adding again and again over time.
You don't have to terminate everything up front but at least pull plenty of wire.
I'd add at least one phone line, one Cat 5e line, and two coax lines in every single location you think you might want to put a TV, even the kids rooms, guest rooms, etc. I would also make sure to centralize everything if possible in an easy to access location. I put most of my stuff in a closet near the media room.
First chance to do it right up front vs adding again and again over time.
twodutys said:
AMEN to all who say run extra wires! If your drywall is not up yet, run at least two coax, one ethernet and one or two phone lines to each room. Seriously! If you think you may eventually want a tv in the kitchen or a bathroom, do it now! It costs nothing compared to running it all after the fact.
fkostyn has a great point too. 6 lines from the dish to the switch location may sound like overkill, but why not? It's not really any more expensive in the long run. Also, go ahead with the 4 lines to the home theater location. If you don't use all of the runs in the future, you're only out a few dollars worth of cable, but if you need them and you didn't run them when you had the chance, shame on you, and get ready for a real headache! Fishing wires is costly if you hire someone to do it, and a pain in the a$$ if you do it yourself.
Good luck with the house! (I'd wire the crap out of it...)
fkostyn has a great point too. 6 lines from the dish to the switch location may sound like overkill, but why not? It's not really any more expensive in the long run. Also, go ahead with the 4 lines to the home theater location. If you don't use all of the runs in the future, you're only out a few dollars worth of cable, but if you need them and you didn't run them when you had the chance, shame on you, and get ready for a real headache! Fishing wires is costly if you hire someone to do it, and a pain in the a$$ if you do it yourself.
Good luck with the house! (I'd wire the crap out of it...)
I install a lot of prewires and retrofits. I prefer the open work method. The same can be done for new construction and old work.
Do not staple anything to the studs. Only staple the cables as they come out of the hole in an accessable space in the attic, the crawl space or the basement. Stapling anything inside the wall means that you will not be able to pull it out later, without tearing out the wall, or use the wire to pull in additional cables. Electricians are required under Code to do it with line voltage, but it is not necessary with low voltage.
Run wires next to studs directly vertical from access boxes with orange open frames. like those sold by Carlon at Lowe's or Home Depot.
Use easy to access 1-1/4" holes that allow easy access with fiberglass push rods.
Seal extra space in holes that wires run through with galvanized sheet metal. One edge is folded over where it contacts wire. Use 1/4" hex #8x3/4" long sheet metal screws to fasten these access plates to the wood.
The standard studded wall space is 14.5 or 22.5 inches wide depending if the studs are placed 16 or 24 inches on center and usually 7' 10.5 inches high. Most standard 2x4 boxes are placed right next to a stud. With a cheap set of Greenlee "Fish Sticks" fiberglass rods ($35 at Home Depot), you can push any cable from any hole next to the side of the stud from above or below so that it appears with the cable in the 2x4 opening in the wall. This will even work with a wall with fiberglass insulation. You can use existing cables to pull other cables in and out. You can cut a 1.5" hole with a hole saw into the wall right next to the center of the 2x4 box hole and put in a telephone jack with just a couple of plastic screw shields and cover plate screws. Matter of fact you can drill a 1/2" hole and put in another "F" connector wall plate. I have a wide expanse of wall to place additional upgrade plates on, not just a one gang or evan a two gang shallow restricted box.
This means that you can add or remove cables easily. Who knows. In 10 years everything might be fiber optic.
Do not staple anything to the studs. Only staple the cables as they come out of the hole in an accessable space in the attic, the crawl space or the basement. Stapling anything inside the wall means that you will not be able to pull it out later, without tearing out the wall, or use the wire to pull in additional cables. Electricians are required under Code to do it with line voltage, but it is not necessary with low voltage.
Run wires next to studs directly vertical from access boxes with orange open frames. like those sold by Carlon at Lowe's or Home Depot.
Use easy to access 1-1/4" holes that allow easy access with fiberglass push rods.
Seal extra space in holes that wires run through with galvanized sheet metal. One edge is folded over where it contacts wire. Use 1/4" hex #8x3/4" long sheet metal screws to fasten these access plates to the wood.
The standard studded wall space is 14.5 or 22.5 inches wide depending if the studs are placed 16 or 24 inches on center and usually 7' 10.5 inches high. Most standard 2x4 boxes are placed right next to a stud. With a cheap set of Greenlee "Fish Sticks" fiberglass rods ($35 at Home Depot), you can push any cable from any hole next to the side of the stud from above or below so that it appears with the cable in the 2x4 opening in the wall. This will even work with a wall with fiberglass insulation. You can use existing cables to pull other cables in and out. You can cut a 1.5" hole with a hole saw into the wall right next to the center of the 2x4 box hole and put in a telephone jack with just a couple of plastic screw shields and cover plate screws. Matter of fact you can drill a 1/2" hole and put in another "F" connector wall plate. I have a wide expanse of wall to place additional upgrade plates on, not just a one gang or evan a two gang shallow restricted box.
This means that you can add or remove cables easily. Who knows. In 10 years everything might be fiber optic.
Do not staple anything to the studs. Only staple the cables as they come out of the hole in an accessable space in the attic, the crawl space or the basement. Stapling anything inside the wall means that you will not be able to pull it out later, without tearing out the wall, or use the wire to pull in additional cables. ***Electricians are required under Code to do it with line voltage, but it is not necessary with low voltage.
***This statement is not true in the great state of Oregon
***This statement is not true in the great state of Oregon
The NEC does not even require that line voltage cables be stapled to the studs for old work, since it is not possible. It only needs to be clamped at the box. Fastening low voltage outside of the walls under a slight tension meets the NEC requirement.
Home Depot sells a "combo" cable that contains 2 RG6, 2 Cat 5 and 1 fiber line in one bundle, so you only have to pull one cable everywhere. I ran one of these cables to every room in my house when I remodeled, so it's very easy to connect a computer or tv or phone in any location in the house now.
sequoiadean said:
i'm curios to see how expensive that wire is. I searched on the homedepot site and couldn't find it. Do you know how much that costs per foot?
EDIT: Right after I posted I saw it at some other online stores for 1.99 per foot
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