I use the DG380 on my Geosatpro 90cm dish and I am well satisfied. It was my first install of HH motor and it set up easily for me using USALS and continues to run fine the past year or so.
HH Motor Install, Frustration and Recommendations?
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Brian,
I have experienced all the mentioned troubles plus a couple others (minus the USALS issue) in the past while setting up my own personal dishes. Some were self inflicted (related to the flimsy gage metal of the SG2100 motor bracket and me trying to use it for "jacking" purposes).
I originally started out with an SG2100 motor, but when I started attaching heavier dishes to it it became apparent that it wasn't the route for me to follow. I started buying the DG-380 motors and have been extremely pleased since. I don't know if you sell these in your shop or not. I bought mine through Sadoun's (that's no reflection on your business or products - just a matter of where I found myself when starting out). The brackets of the DG-380 are very stout!
As for the USALS alignment, the best practice I have found was to start out with the nearest possible true southern sat first (typical approach). Use the most accurate longitude and latitude entries possible and set the motor latitude angle by reading the elevation angle from the flat belly of the motor with a gravity dial or a digital inclinometer and subtraction the reading from 90°. I don't get too excited about the setting of the dish elevation angle as there are so many other variables (motor tube bend / trying to read the scale accurately etc). I just fly be the seat of my pants on that part and use my SuperBuddy Meter or my trusty Coolsat 5K to get me where I need to be.
The items I start paying particular attention to from this point on are the centering of the dish mounting bracket on the motor tube axis, the backlash of the motor tube/gear assembly and the possible "droop" or side to side play in the dish bracket (the part of the dish clamping mechanism that fastens it to the motor tube). For the last case, a dish with a jacking bolt for the elevation adjustment is helpful as it keeps the dish from falling when you loosen the clamps to make a small tweak. If you don't have to focus on holding the entire weight of the dish to move it a partial degree, you can more closely monitor the flexing of the mounting brackets and keep that to a minimum to keep the assembly square.
I also try to avoid making dish elevation adjustments when the motor is positioned to the side of dead center. I test a satellite off to the side of the arc and if I need to raise or lower the dish elevation, I guestimate how much and command the motor to go back to zero first. Then I make the elevation adjustment there. This reduces the side pull force due to the center of gravity being off-center and lessens the chance that the bracket will twist and introduce a new and unwanted error.
The next step that I follow is a "calibration" routine. I didn't come up with this myself, I read it somewhere and it came from the president of one of the H-H motor MFG companies.
Once you have set up the nearest true south sat, you command the motor to go to the furthest receivable sat to either side of the arc. Then you tweak on either the dish elevation angle or the motor azimuth angle (but only one - NOT both). Then you command the motor to the furthest possible receivable sat on the opposite side of the arc and tweak on the other adjustment. You go back and forth from one side of the arc to the other and continue adjusting dish elevation on one side and motor azimuth on the other. You then work your way further out to the ends of the available arc and LOS in this methodical process. It doesn't matter which adjustment you make on which side of the arc, as long as you adjust only one and always only that specific adjustment on that side of the arc (in other words, stick to the same pattern throughout the whole process).
Not sure if my way of doing this is better or great, but I offer it as information for Mark and anyone else that desires to check it out. I wish your friend Mark better luck in the next try anyway.
RADAR
I have experienced all the mentioned troubles plus a couple others (minus the USALS issue) in the past while setting up my own personal dishes. Some were self inflicted (related to the flimsy gage metal of the SG2100 motor bracket and me trying to use it for "jacking" purposes).
I originally started out with an SG2100 motor, but when I started attaching heavier dishes to it it became apparent that it wasn't the route for me to follow. I started buying the DG-380 motors and have been extremely pleased since. I don't know if you sell these in your shop or not. I bought mine through Sadoun's (that's no reflection on your business or products - just a matter of where I found myself when starting out). The brackets of the DG-380 are very stout!
As for the USALS alignment, the best practice I have found was to start out with the nearest possible true southern sat first (typical approach). Use the most accurate longitude and latitude entries possible and set the motor latitude angle by reading the elevation angle from the flat belly of the motor with a gravity dial or a digital inclinometer and subtraction the reading from 90°. I don't get too excited about the setting of the dish elevation angle as there are so many other variables (motor tube bend / trying to read the scale accurately etc). I just fly be the seat of my pants on that part and use my SuperBuddy Meter or my trusty Coolsat 5K to get me where I need to be.
The items I start paying particular attention to from this point on are the centering of the dish mounting bracket on the motor tube axis, the backlash of the motor tube/gear assembly and the possible "droop" or side to side play in the dish bracket (the part of the dish clamping mechanism that fastens it to the motor tube). For the last case, a dish with a jacking bolt for the elevation adjustment is helpful as it keeps the dish from falling when you loosen the clamps to make a small tweak. If you don't have to focus on holding the entire weight of the dish to move it a partial degree, you can more closely monitor the flexing of the mounting brackets and keep that to a minimum to keep the assembly square.
I also try to avoid making dish elevation adjustments when the motor is positioned to the side of dead center. I test a satellite off to the side of the arc and if I need to raise or lower the dish elevation, I guestimate how much and command the motor to go back to zero first. Then I make the elevation adjustment there. This reduces the side pull force due to the center of gravity being off-center and lessens the chance that the bracket will twist and introduce a new and unwanted error.
The next step that I follow is a "calibration" routine. I didn't come up with this myself, I read it somewhere and it came from the president of one of the H-H motor MFG companies.
Once you have set up the nearest true south sat, you command the motor to go to the furthest receivable sat to either side of the arc. Then you tweak on either the dish elevation angle or the motor azimuth angle (but only one - NOT both). Then you command the motor to the furthest possible receivable sat on the opposite side of the arc and tweak on the other adjustment. You go back and forth from one side of the arc to the other and continue adjusting dish elevation on one side and motor azimuth on the other. You then work your way further out to the ends of the available arc and LOS in this methodical process. It doesn't matter which adjustment you make on which side of the arc, as long as you adjust only one and always only that specific adjustment on that side of the arc (in other words, stick to the same pattern throughout the whole process).
Not sure if my way of doing this is better or great, but I offer it as information for Mark and anyone else that desires to check it out. I wish your friend Mark better luck in the next try anyway.
RADAR
I will probably never forget that look of fire in your whole face when you said you would not have that box in your home "Let alone sell it to anyone", telling me your customers were more important to you than your own use; own pleasure.
Thank you, POP
Mikey11, I like your suggestion that it is the motor bracket that needs to be plumb, but I've had to take it a step further. I own the SG2100 and the bracket distorts once you tighten the U-bolts. Soooo.... I had to level the actual motor housing. This proves difficult because there aren't many places on the physical motor housing to place a level- too many curves.
SatAV, thanks for starting this thread. The SG2100's motor bracket distorting has caused me a great deal of grief. Now I know others are dealing with the same thing. I think the dream motor would be a STAB HH210, but I only see these on eBay for a lot of money.
SatAV, thanks for starting this thread. The SG2100's motor bracket distorting has caused me a great deal of grief. Now I know others are dealing with the same thing. I think the dream motor would be a STAB HH210, but I only see these on eBay for a lot of money.
Looks like I have to start from scratch. I have not touched the dish/motor since Brian came out. Do I have reset receiver to factory default?
I just installed the HD Receiver, but still am at a loss.
I am unable to find where I can input my coordinates. And am also unsure whether I should remove the motor,
and manually seek G19. then replace the motor...
Mark
I just installed the HD Receiver, but still am at a loss.
I am unable to find where I can input my coordinates. And am also unsure whether I should remove the motor,
and manually seek G19. then replace the motor...
Mark
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If you had it and have not moved it --- do not touch that dial!!! Those dish pointer apps will give you your co-ordinates from your address. Mine is off by 1500 feet, but that is close enough for that big shotgun pattern.
I would vote for the Stab HH120. I have never had trouble with it other than having to tighten the bearing pre-load... it was used on a 120cm dish.
Big wind came and broke one of the mounting ears off the casting. Still hoping to repair it.
I have never owned a DG380 so I can't compare.
I have an old SG2100 that works good, had to remove the re-set switch though, it failed due to moisture. Havn't had problems since. Use it on a 90cm dish. Also have an SG9120B, don't think it will last too long and it's USALS/diseqc operation is intermittant.
Big wind came and broke one of the mounting ears off the casting. Still hoping to repair it.
I have never owned a DG380 so I can't compare.
I have an old SG2100 that works good, had to remove the re-set switch though, it failed due to moisture. Havn't had problems since. Use it on a 90cm dish. Also have an SG9120B, don't think it will last too long and it's USALS/diseqc operation is intermittant.
I've had a little experience with HH motors having used them to drive a 6ft dish 
The HH120 is a fine motor although my experience has been that it develops a little bit of play. On the other hand, I've used several SG9120s with different dishes and they have all performed well. I'm sure there are always good and bad experiences but if purchasing another motor today I would choose an SG9120 over the HH120. YMMV
The HH120 is a fine motor although my experience has been that it develops a little bit of play. On the other hand, I've used several SG9120s with different dishes and they have all performed well. I'm sure there are always good and bad experiences but if purchasing another motor today I would choose an SG9120 over the HH120. YMMV
My SG2100 is shimmed so much it's ridiculous. I suspect that not only is the bracket a piece of junk but the threaded holes on the motor aren't lined up with the shaft!
I just finished my initial install of a new SG-2100 from Hypermegasat. I put it on my relatively new GeosatPro 90cm dish, and dug out a qph-031 lnbf from the parts drawer. After about 2 hours work ( including reaming the top hole on the motor tube to fit the dish mount) I've got the arc from 72W to 125W, and it looks pretty good. The most notable thing is the Q number are quite nice with this dish/lnbf combo. I'm getting Montana PBS at ~78% on the MicroHD receiver. Maybe the signal is really good today, but that's a nice number. I swore I'd never buy another SG-2100, but this was available and pretty cheap. So far it works, but I've been careful not to overtorque anything, just snug it all up. We'll see how it goes.
Just curious how many different versions are there of "SG-2100"? Nothing more frustrating than thinking you have some specific thing only to find out it's actually a generic term encompassing a broad range of variations. I too suffer from the "USALS works fine near true south but inaccurate further away" issue so I'm pretty much used to DiSEqC positioning for everything at this point.
Thanks for the useful tips here. Five years or so ago when I installed the thing, I was meticulous about leveling the pole but leveling the motor mount itself has never occurred to me. A shim might be appropriate. Unfortunately, all the mounting bolts have long since rusted so trying to alter anything might end up a big disaster.
Thanks for the useful tips here. Five years or so ago when I installed the thing, I was meticulous about leveling the pole but leveling the motor mount itself has never occurred to me. A shim might be appropriate. Unfortunately, all the mounting bolts have long since rusted so trying to alter anything might end up a big disaster.
i usually use pb blaster ... but i,ve got a cordless drill and a small wire brush attachment on the agenda for my future projects
STAB HH100, HH120 are available from a few sellers in Canada and on ebay(canadaeoutlet)
have had 4 HH100 now over 6 years.
tried the cheaper ones but found you do get what you pay for with STAB.
and the HH100, HH120 are just easier to install with the shaft being upward duh
good luck
have had 4 HH100 now over 6 years.
tried the cheaper ones but found you do get what you pay for with STAB.
and the HH100, HH120 are just easier to install with the shaft being upward duh
good luck
I got an SG6000, the installation instuctions say to subtract 6.5 from 40 degrees to get dish mounting angle, 33.5 degrees. Couldn't get a signal off anything, then measured and found that the motor shaft angle is 30 degrees, so the dish mounting angle needs to be 23.5 degrees. Only took 6 weeks to solve that one.
I'm mounting to my old BUD mounting pole, it's sunk into about 2 tons of cement. Anyway, in the 22 years since I installed the pole, my neighbor's tree at my due south has grown, and I think he'd notice if it came up missing. I can get a few satellites, like from 110 to 125, and am pretty sure I can see in the 70's okay, is there an alignment method I can use that doesn't require a due south satellite? Thanks
I'm mounting to my old BUD mounting pole, it's sunk into about 2 tons of cement. Anyway, in the 22 years since I installed the pole, my neighbor's tree at my due south has grown, and I think he'd notice if it came up missing. I can get a few satellites, like from 110 to 125, and am pretty sure I can see in the 70's okay, is there an alignment method I can use that doesn't require a due south satellite? Thanks
Sounds like your alignment must be fairly close now if you are hitting some of the sats.
Are you using USALS to move your dish?
If not you need to turn USALS on, enter your lat and long data. Then select one of the satellites that you can see now that is closest to your longitude.
The motor should move to the correct position, then you should aim your dish and peak the signal on that sat. Make sure you have an active transponder selected.
At that point you should be able to select any satellite and USALS will move the dish to it, might need some minor adjustments to optimize but should be very close.
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