Help with install of flat RG6!!

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mymnte

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Apr 14, 2006
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What is the easiest way to run my flat RG6. My sliding glass door is to snug to the bottom and appears it would shred the heck out of the cable and going through the jam between Doors it will crimp the cable. Am i missing something because it appears to do the same on the sliding glass doors at my friends house a few towns away also. and my windows are up and down moveable and if ran appears that the screen will not close all the way but the window can be forced down over it. Please help because i thought this was supposed to be a simple solution and i am failing to understand how.

I apologize if something similar was posted but i searched and could not find anything usefull. Also if someone has a picture of what thiers looks like ran it may shed some light for me.

Thank you

Mymnte
 
I'ts easier to ask for forgiveness than permission.
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Chip

I definitely like the thinking but would like to do to their code so i hear no b@tching
 
flat cable is not what i recommend , but since you are in a situation that you need it , flat cable will take the abuse that of your sliding door or window when fully shut. Just be careful not to slam door or window when closing. I have had MDU service calls because of flat cabe. But if you must use i fully do understand. I also recommend using F81 barrels instead. When you need to go , all you need to do is just unscrew cable from barrel and close door or window when you leave. Then again there are some disadvantages going that route as well.
 
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You may want to see if you can "remove" the threshold of the sliding glass door, or one of the side pieces. Most sliders are made like !$@ and you might be able to actually get the flat coax underneath the threshold. My slider on the back I could actually do this if I wanted to.
 
Doesn't Channel Plus still make something called Glass Link or Glass Plus for $100 or so that sticks onto both sides of the window and induces the L-band signal and LNB voltage through it? I installed a couple of them five or six years ago and never got any callbacks.

I remember they made two different models, optimized for the different thicknesses of glass plate.
 
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AntAltMike said:
Doesn't Channel Plus still make something called Glass Link or Glass Plus for $100 or so that sticks onto both sides of the window and induces the L-band signal and LNB voltage through it? I installed a couple of them five or six years ago and never got any callbacks.

I remember they made two different models, optimized of the different thicknesses of glass plate.
Just checked the Channel Plus web site and sadly, they have discontinued both GlassLink models.
 
ok i think i may be able to figure a way to run the cable but now the issue coming down is the grounding. Is there anything wrong with just using an 8 ft copper rod driven into the ground. Is there anything easier and what all has to be grounded. this whole apartment code thing is killing me and i really appreciate any info you guys provide.

mymnte
 
Grounding is not necessary for technical purposes. It is only necessary to meet the fire and safety code.

Grounding the antenna mast supposedly makes it slightly less likely to attract lightning, and the ground on the coax is intended to suck down the level of otherwise dangerous voltages and shunt away any high current that might otherwise travel further into the residence.

Back before DBS, maybe one antenna in a hundred was grounded.
 
i wish i could not ground it but this has to be done to code for the apartment complex i am in. I have installed dishes before but never at an apartment so i never had to deal with all these codes and jst need to know what is the best way to ground this stupid thing so i do not have to pay a fortune for a pro.

I appreciate the help from everyone
 
well it looks now that the apartment is not as worried about code as stated in their literature so i do not have to worry about the grounding, that is what the renters insurance is for. that is their answer and i am sticking to it. thank you all for your help
 
One thing to remember about grounding to satisfy the whims of the building management is that 99 times out of a hundred, the installation will not be inspected by someone who actually knows the particulars of the local electrical code, so if you have a dish on a balcomy, you can run a groundwire to the metal railing or to an outside electrical conduit, and you can run a groundwire for the coax to the little screw that holds the cover plate on an electrical outlet and most people will think the code requirements have been satisfied.
 
I used the flat coax on the "fixed" side of the window. Once in place with screen and window in the tracks, there is no wear and tear on the cable. Other side slides open easily!
 
For that matter, I've used real flimsy 300 ohm ribbon cable, the kind that you might use to extend an FM radio antenna input, and I simply pigtail spliced it to the coax, and it worked just fine.
 
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