Help wiring for satellite!

[Beachbum]

Well, im new to satellite TV. I currently have all cable, cable TV and high speed internet. I just recently bought an FTA setup to fool around with which brought me to this forum .

I live on an island in northwest Florida which of course was battered by hurricane Ivan, screwed up the house etc.... Yes, Its 6 months later and no there is no progress down here, but there is some normalcy.
Our cable TV line runs across the street from north to south, so far this month the line has been snapped TWICE by who knows what. I believe the snapping of our cable line is intentionally since it only occurs late at night and during the day the debris hauling trucks don't even come close.

I'll live with it for now, but if this happens one more time im giving up! I'll be forced to switch to satellite and then get DSL. Currently the house is gutted and I just recently finished wiring it, obviously I want to make sure its future proof before the drywall goes up!

So far I have 3 cables going into a structured wiring panel: 1 for cable TV, 2 for satellite? Now this 2 wire concept dumbfounds me. And at the wire panel there is one coax that goes to each room which I was planning on attaching an amplified splitter to.

I know with the dual or even triple LNB's there are more than one wires involved in that but those wires are hooked up to a multiswitch and it all boils down to ONE coax which attaches to the receiver? I swear I have seen some receivers that required 2 coax cables from the dish?

I'm very confused.
I included a basic drawing:

 

[korsjs]

if you can afford it. i would run three if not more to your main tv room. i would do two to the other rooms.

 

[VOOMER]

Dtv Dihnetwork Voom ?

It really depends on what you will use for service !
In any case if you run 4 from the dish to your (wire closet) and 2 to every room that you may want a tv in then you should be pretty well set,
for Directv /Dishnetwork or VOOOOM..

DVR units or Tivo needs 2 lines to each to have full capability,Standard receivers need only 1 line to them.

Post a little more about what you may want to hook up and i am sure you will get more replies than youll need.

hope this helps

 

[Beachbum]

Well, I find that somewhat comforting. I dont plan on using a DVR or Tivo in my time, though the next owner of the house might. I'm just kind of running out of space in my wire pannel. I'll see if I can atleast have 2 coax in each room.

 

[Beachbum]

Additionally, I have a security camera that is attached to an RF modulator that broadcasts on channel 88 or something high like that, would it be possible to implement that?

 

[PILMAN]

You live in NW Florida? I live in FWB, what city you live in? Funny thing is after hurricane Ivan at least we were able to watch tv on a generator whereas everyones cable was down for like 3 weeks.

EDIT: bah ignore that post I remember you said you lived in Pensacola or panama.

 

[Beachbum]

Yeah, Pensacola Beach. Thats also a plus, it took like 4 weeks to get our cable line to get reattached after the hurricane (in pensacola, not the beach). And phone service was always on! I'm seriously considering it now.

 

[PILMAN]

yes phone service never went out. Our cable has had TONS Of problems recently though. It's not just us, everyone on our block is experiencing outages almost everyday about 3 times a day, there tv's will lose signal and their internet will go down, my internet goes down constantly. Yeah cable sure is more reliable than satellite [sarcasm], maybe in the rest of the world but in this area hell no.

Went to my aunts house and there was this funny directv commercial (she has cable) and this kid screams "DAD THE CABLES OUT AGAIN!" and the dad says "well it's time to get directv". funny stuff.

 

[Foxbat]

Beachbum, if the walls are still exposed and you want to truely future-proof your home, get some 3/4", 1", & 2" interduct and run that to any location that you might want to put a TV or satellite (or Internet connection, for that matter). SmartHome sells this stuff, but there may be cheaper sources. It cuts with a hacksaw and can be glued with PVC cement to attach threaded nipples for termination in a low-voltage box. Also, it has pull tape run thoughout the interduct, so dragging two, three, or more RG6 cables is no sweat.

That way, if DBS goes to fiber optic cabling in the future, or your cable co. gets their act together and you want to hook up every room, you're set.

 

[Mike500]

I've used and installed all sorts of panels and conduits. None of them seem to satisfy my needs. I no longer spend money on them.

I prefer the open work architecture method. If I was building a house, I would, as I have with my own house took and catalogued many pictures of the walls with the wiring plumbing, and structure before the insulation went in.

A standard wall cavity has a cross section of 3.5x14.5 inches if built on 16 inch stud centers and 3.5x22.5 inches if built on 24 inch center between studs. That is a lot more room for running cables. Basically, I'd drill 1.25 inch holes right next to the vertical studs centered on the top and bottom plate 2x4's. 1.25 inch holes are used, because they meet NEC 2002 requirements for 1.25" spacing from outside or inside walls for regular house wiring. For mounting the wall plates, I use the Carlon orange old work 2x4' mounting frames. In new work, I use the these old work frames, but use two angled drywall screws to mount it to the stud, with the ennded 1/2" spacing out for the drywall. This way, I can later remove the drame without damaging the sheet rock and repalce it in the same hole with the built in clamp ears. Adding more plates is simple. You just go to the side of the stud and cut a 1.5 inch hole with a hole saw and use dry wall screw shields to mount the plates to the wall. You can also use the orange Carlon old work frames. The cables are not stapled to the walls, but anchored in the attic with cable clamps into the wood outside of the wall. Using this open work, more cables can be pulled in with the old cables at any time. Old unused cables and be discarded and removed. A piece of galvanized flashing with one edge folded over to avoid cutting the wires can be screwed over the holes with 1/4" hex x 3/4" long sheet metal screws. They cab be removed with a nut driver to access the holes, yet steel would provide the necessary shielding for fire resistance required by code.

Cable types and number of cables requirement change over time. This allows for easy future upgrades.

 

[Beachbum]

Beachbum, if the walls are still exposed and you want to truely future-proof your home, get some 3/4", 1", & 2" interduct and run that to any location that you might want to put a TV or satellite (or Internet connection, for that matter). SmartHome sells this stuff, but there may be cheaper sources. It cuts with a hacksaw and can be glued with PVC cement to attach threaded nipples for termination in a low-voltage box. Also, it has pull tape run thoughout the interduct, so dragging two, three, or more RG6 cables is no sweat.

That way, if DBS goes to fiber optic cabling in the future, or your cable co. gets their act together and you want to hook up every room, you're set.

I already did that! Along with a box and everything....
I'm trying not to worry about anything right now, our hurricane house isnt so hurricane proof anymore the blowout walls are bolted to the ground now (why, I dont now). So bassically if another hurricane comes, our house will be....GONE. And if a hurricane doesnt come, we are going to sell in 2-3 years, and once its sold, there is a good chance that who ever buys it will just bulldoze it .