Help on setup - 10ft dish using BSC621

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Here's a cell phone shot of the LNB label...
 

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Ok...
Then for all the C band I use L.O. 5.150 / 22KHz OFF, right?
I think I'm starting to get this...
Still haven't got Ku on 123W... Yet...
 
You got it. FTA is the oppsite of Plug N Play. :)
Remember that you need to setup each and every Sat.
Ku on a BUD is not easy, the BUD must be tracking Perfect.
The BSC621 will not get every Ku TP up there, Live Feeds are the worst.
I have RTN 11720 V 27692 at Q74 though
 
I think just having the 621 is my biggest issue with this. Just got my Corotor II from Scootertime this past week.
Was planning to put it on the 8ft dish and use with the 920 4Dtv receiver...
Also thought about getting a couple of smaller dishes for Ku...
What are your thoughts on it?
 
You should get 123 with the BSC621, it just takes time to fine tune.
I get most "Regular" Ku using the BSC621, except the LPBS DVB-S2 on 125west
For the Live Feeds and LPBS, I have an 80cm Motorized, just in case or on windy days. :)
The more the better.
 
the 621 will work just fine on a 10ft dish, providing it is a good ku compatable dish, an just like Lak said fine tuniing is the secret to get them to play. I got a 10ft Channel Master here with the 621-2 on it an I don't miss any transponders on 123, an get fine signal on the 125 sat even on the S-2 mux. also do you're self a favor an put a disqec switch in, an ditch that short jumper, an for c-band make sure that the coax is in the REC port on the side of the lnb, an ku band is at the back of the 621.

now the 621 have no F/D markings on them so you will need to measure a feed with F/D scale with a ruler, an set the 621 to it, then never change it. anothe trick that I have done is after you got the F/D set in the scalar, put a hose clamp on lnb throat with a couple pieces of small metal right next to the scalar ring as a stop, now you can set you polarity with out changing the F/D. then just remove it when you're done. the F/D is VERY important setting.

now what brand of 10ft dish are you trying to set up cause I have F/D & F/L settins for alot of dishes?
 
The dish is a no-name with Ku mesh. No warpage. String test is dead on.
Diameter is dead-on 120"
Depth is 20-5/8"
I calculate my FL as 43.636 and my F/D as .364.
I used the Corotor II to measure the F/D. I am just a bit off on FL - but I'm extended as far as the supports will allow. I'm planning to get some longer bolts with washers to raise the entire assembly about 1/2". But that's how close it is. I was of the understanding there was a "tennis ball" size region I needed to be in.
I'm reloading channels right now to clean up all the trash I've accumulated all day but I'll try and get some Q numbers from 91 to 123 and post them later. I'm really concerned that I might be fighting some sidelobes, but I can say for certain that the dish is not warped...
 
Ok, I finally got something back on 123 Ku...
Here are numbers...
12110V2250 - 66Q - Clear channels
11725V27692 - 69Q - Clear channels
11800V26657 - <10Q - Nothing
Just for comparison - all the scrambled stuff on 123 C I'm getting at 97Q
Now... is there some secret to 11800 that I need to know?
 
There is one point I can hit and it will jump for just a second to about 40Q and go green, then immediately goes back red and 'No or Bad Signal'...
One thing that perturbs me about the CoolSat is that the signal meter on the channels will not stay up when it does this... pain for tuning a dish!
Let me get moved back to 91W... my actuator count is all jacked up right now...
 
And - thought I'd check my arc on further west, so I went to 127 C-band... 4186H is at 98Q.
I'm guessing here, and someone can correct me if I'm wrong...
It's impossible to get a CoolSat 6000 to hit 100%, ain't it?
 
See if you can get the Echo9 Sat @ 121, it's Linear.
You may have to tweak the BUD and LNBF a little more to get Ku across the arc.
 
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Ok... Q numbers on 121 Ku (if they are bouncing, I'm putting the lower number)
11971H 93%
12015V 6% - must be down - I was getting this hot yesterday (Superdish pointer)
11898H 63% ??? I think this must be a side lobe...
11972V 70% Same thing here?

Also, took 1Captain's advise and jacked in a DisEq Switch and bypassed the jumper.
I have dual coax so it wasn't a biggie. I have the switch cabled in at the receiver (not on the dish).
I honestly can't tell any difference in my numbers.

I'll just have to tweak the feedhorn/scaler/yay! some more next weekend. May call in sick a day or two this week... (Sick from tweaking a feedhorn!)
I HATE standard time - wish they'd leave DST alone... :mad:
 
14karat-
1captain wrote:
an get fine signal on the 125 sat even on the S-2 mux
Was off work today, so I thought I'd try for the LPBS DVB-S2 on 125west using the BSC621.
After 3hrs of "tweaking" with out much improvement, accidentially knocked off the Feedhorn cover, low and behold Q65 on 12072. Put the cover back on - QZero, nothing, nada. I see little difference with Cover On vs. Cover Off on TP 12080.
I now have a new cover, bottom of water bottle, it works.
 
You've got to be kidding... the feedhorn cover?
Well... know what I'm going to try in the dark when I get home... won't take much, if I just bump the dish a couple of times, the thing will fall off. Had planned on putting a dab of silicone caulk on opposite sides of it so it wouldn't fall when I wasn't watching...
Hmmm... :eureka
Clear plastic wrap and a rubber band, that should do the trick...:D
 
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LNB and scalar assembly

New Dish FINALLY installed

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