I have acquired a clean and healthy (as far as I can tell) DSR-410 which I intend to sub to SRL. I played around with it a little bit last night but I ran out of time to get it all the way working (my dish isn't peaked yet anyway.) I have a couple of questions about initial tuning/lock that I hope somebody can help with.
There was an earlier post on SatGuys (sorry I don't have it in front of me right now) where an actual H2H installer manual was attached... very interesting stuff. It walked through the procedure for manual tuning. The basic flow, which I'm guessing would be familiar to anybody with a 4DTV, goes like this:
Options...6 7,7,8, 1
Set polarity, symbol rate, coding, and frequency
Hit "Tune"
Without ever hitting "Go Back", hit Options, 6, 3, 1 to get to the signal strength bar.
Here are my two questions:
First, if you get the frequency, polarity, coding, and symbol rate correct, will the signal strength bar light up even if the EMM provider ID is wrong? Here's why I care: My true south is 91W. I would love to be able to lock a signal on 91W before I worry about moving off-center. Lyngsat shows a DCII mux that is 29270 and 3/4 (values that the 410 is capable of) at 3780 V. Of course, the EMM provider ID is going to be wrong and I won't be able to see anything, but will this at least make the bar go up so I know nothing is dead?
Second, If I manual tune to a DCII mux and I make sure that the feedhorn probe is pointed the same as the physical polarity on the satellite, will it light up the signal strength bar even if that's not what the 410 "thinks" it is set to? Example: The SRL receiver conversion instructions advise you to do a manual tune to 1430, which would be 3720 V on the 105W satellite. My feedhorn is a Corotor, which doesn't care about switching voltage (a power inserter is used to make sure the LNB gets enough juice.) If I make sure that the probe is oriented vertically, I believe the receiver should work regardless of whether I set "left" or "right" in the Manual Tune menu. Is that how it works?
Trying to learn about DCII and peak a brand new C-band dish at the same time is painful, to say the least. And I'll add... boy do I feel like a moron for putting this off. Classic Arts Showcase shut off its analog TP mere days before I started working on peaking the dish... grrrr. Would have been so much easier that way.
BTW, I believe others on this board may have found a workaround for the 410's goofy polarity, but I want to test it out formally before I say for sure.
Thanks, everyone! I apologize that it might be a day or two before I get time to try any suggestions, but I will definitely be checking replies.
There was an earlier post on SatGuys (sorry I don't have it in front of me right now) where an actual H2H installer manual was attached... very interesting stuff. It walked through the procedure for manual tuning. The basic flow, which I'm guessing would be familiar to anybody with a 4DTV, goes like this:
Options...6 7,7,8, 1
Set polarity, symbol rate, coding, and frequency
Hit "Tune"
Without ever hitting "Go Back", hit Options, 6, 3, 1 to get to the signal strength bar.
Here are my two questions:
First, if you get the frequency, polarity, coding, and symbol rate correct, will the signal strength bar light up even if the EMM provider ID is wrong? Here's why I care: My true south is 91W. I would love to be able to lock a signal on 91W before I worry about moving off-center. Lyngsat shows a DCII mux that is 29270 and 3/4 (values that the 410 is capable of) at 3780 V. Of course, the EMM provider ID is going to be wrong and I won't be able to see anything, but will this at least make the bar go up so I know nothing is dead?
Second, If I manual tune to a DCII mux and I make sure that the feedhorn probe is pointed the same as the physical polarity on the satellite, will it light up the signal strength bar even if that's not what the 410 "thinks" it is set to? Example: The SRL receiver conversion instructions advise you to do a manual tune to 1430, which would be 3720 V on the 105W satellite. My feedhorn is a Corotor, which doesn't care about switching voltage (a power inserter is used to make sure the LNB gets enough juice.) If I make sure that the probe is oriented vertically, I believe the receiver should work regardless of whether I set "left" or "right" in the Manual Tune menu. Is that how it works?
Trying to learn about DCII and peak a brand new C-band dish at the same time is painful, to say the least. And I'll add... boy do I feel like a moron for putting this off. Classic Arts Showcase shut off its analog TP mere days before I started working on peaking the dish... grrrr. Would have been so much easier that way.
BTW, I believe others on this board may have found a workaround for the 410's goofy polarity, but I want to test it out formally before I say for sure.
Thanks, everyone! I apologize that it might be a day or two before I get time to try any suggestions, but I will definitely be checking replies.