GBox 3000 And Performance Pak Actuator

[Babadem]

Ha ha ha ! Not until you make one.

I was thinking about either popping out the original magnets, drilling 8 hole (in , and between current locations), inserting 8 tiny new super magnets, then mount a new tiny reed switch to that triangular plastic bracket holding existing reed.
Alternately, make a new magnet wheel (Magic Static has a thread where he's doing that for his Ajak 180).
10-12 magnets should be possible. Depends on diameter of the wheel.

Those jacks like yours are rated in how many pulses per inch of travel.
We know you get 4 pulses per rotation of the magnet wheel now.
Put a big red mark on the wheel, and tell us how many times it goes around for one inch extension of the arm.

(I see you tried to PM me. I cleared some space in mailbox)

I will probably concentrate on getting the motor cleaned out and working for now, and pursue any modification to the motor in the near future. Please, check you PM.

 

[FaT Air]

I will guess it's going to be 32 pulses. 2880 degrees rotation. 8 times around.
Maybe on an outside chance, 40, 9 times around.
I wouldn't bother with more magnets if it's going to be C band only. Think you're going to have plenty of pulses per degree. The biggest (IMHO) factor in accuracy is end play. Find out which is an issue first, then repair or modify as required.

 

[Babadem]

I will guess it's going to be 32 pulses. 2880 degrees rotation. 8 times around.
Maybe on an outside chance, 40, 9 times around.
I wouldn't bother with more magnets if it's going to be C band only. Think you're going to have plenty of pulses per degree. The biggest (IMHO) factor in accuracy is end play. Find out which is an issue first, then repair or modify as required.

This will be a C-Band only setup.

 

[Lone Gunman]

Sounds like your Gbox has a welded relay contact, which will cause what you are describing.

Be careful not to put 36 volts to that reed switch or it will be toast!

If you do decide to add magnets, be aware that the north south polls are suppose to alternate for each location.

When I made the 10 magnet wheel for my Von Weise mover I used some 1/4" round by 1/4" long super type magnets I got from Digikey. I also used these same magnets on the drive shaft sensor on a data logger.

Also, I answered your PM on that Vbox 7 I got for $37 shipped. It came from http://www.hypermegasat.com/v_box_6.htm

 

[Babadem]

Sounds like your Gbox has a welded relay contact, which will cause what you are describing.

Be careful not to put 36 volts to that reed switch or it will be toast!

If you do decide to add magnets, be aware that the north south polls are suppose to alternate for each location.

When I made the 10 magnet wheel for my Von Weise mover I used some 1/4" round by 1/4" long super type magnets I got from Digikey. I also used these same magnets on the drive shaft sensor on a data logger.

Also, I answered your PM on that Vbox 7 I got for $37 shipped. It came from http://www.hypermegasat.com/v_box_6.htm

Thanks for the insight. I hope I didn't reed fry the reed switch on the Salvaged actuator.

 

[waylew]

Looking at your Gbox pics,diode "D3"appears to be fried,most likely shorted.Next to the relays under the yellow wires.

 

[Babadem]

Looking at your Gbox pics,diode "D3"appears to be fried,most likely shorted.Next to the relays under the yellow wires.

Thanks for the observation, but what makes that evident?

 

[waylew]

It should look like the other 3 around it.Appears discolored and the white markings are gone.At least that's what it looks like to me in your pic.
edit

Well after going back and looking at one of the other pics it looks okay.Must have been a shadow from the wires.Originally only looked at pic 4 full size.

 

[Babadem]

GBox 3000 Update

Phew!! I'm glad to report that my GBox 3000 was not fried during my test of the SAGINAW Actuator a few days ago. I opened up the powermax PMA24 Actuator and I noticed that the "Upper and lower Cams" or Upper and lower limits settings on the Actuator were loose. I adjusted and tightened it (white plastic cam on the left) and there is no more E----2 issues. I will be putting back the PMA24 Actuator back on the 6ft dish as soon as I can. On the other hand, I'm currently cleaning and repainting the SAGINAW Actuator, and will be testing that when that project is complete.

 

[Babadem]

The sensors are available through Digi-Key last time I looked. Strange they shielded the ground wires. I agree the Saginaw gear drives are second to none... I have an old one as a backup that needed some TLC as it was sitting in a junk pile for at least a decade... It cleaned up well and works like a champ as far as I can tell, might use it on a 2nd dish if I put one up.
If you can varify the unit works it might be a good idea to change the cabling into the motor enclosure. Outdoor rated 16ga X 2 extension cord cable for the motor and shielded cat5 or cat6 for the sensor are likely the cheapest options unless there are surplus sources for ribbon cable. I picked up about 150' ribbon cable one time I drove through Fergus Falls (Skyvision) but in those days I was still using a polarotor. It was not cheap.
Just spend some time on the unit, I am sure yours will clean up well too!

I went to Digi-Key website, but I was overwhelmed with all the information there. Would you know the part number/parameters for the sensor(s) needed for the Saginaw actuator. I would like have all the parts around in case I need any to be replaced when I start putting the actuator back together.

 

[Babadem]

The reed sensor is the thing that the two blue wires hook to. ( or is it blue and black? whatever) It mounts to the piece of plastic with a jamb nut. You can see the top nut in your picture. And the other ends of the wire hook to the terminal strip. Then the wires from your house hook to the other side of the terminal strip, i.e. reed sensor to reed sensor, motor to motor. Dont hook the reed sensor to the motor screws for any reason!

Here's something I threw together that may help. View attachment 88535View attachment 88535 Maybe not, I am not an artist..LOL

This doesn't seem to have a Lower/Upper limit switch on this Actuator, or it is hidden somewhere within it?

 

[stogie5150]

This doesn't seem to have a Lower/Upper limit switch on this Actuator, or it is hidden somewhere within it?

I have no idea, I seem to remember back in the day that they would run away, maybe they relied on the receiver to make sure they didn't run away. Remember those arms were made in a different time, for different equipment. I was there, what we do now everyday was science fiction in 1981...LOL

 

[Cham]

I'll look for the p/n as soon as I get a chance. Don't see a p/n on the spare. Hv to head out for work right now but will try later.
C.

 

[. Raine]

So, is your g-box working now? If not, it's pretty easy to check most of those components with a multimeter if you have one, I could probably help you with that. I'd guess one of the black diodes or the voltage regulator as the culprit, or a stuck/welded relay contact as I think it was Waylew suggested. Using a magnifying glass, or jeweler's loupe, if you have one, is good for looking for burnt components, sometimes when they burn it's only a tiny hole or crack in the case of the component and real hard to see. Traces on the bottom of the board could have burned off also. A shorted diode [or two] , or voltage regulator would probably also be a lot hotter than the rest while the unit is powered on and you could feel if any are hotter than the rest. Be careful though, they definitely can be hot enough to burn and also you don't want to touch any leads and use only one hand when probing around inside, stuff your other hand into your pocket, you don't want to get shocked. It doesn't look like anything in there could shock you very bad but I've never worked on a g-box before, so I don't know.

 

[Babadem]

So, is your g-box working now? If not, it's pretty easy to check most of those components with a multimeter if you have one, I could probably help you with that. I'd guess one of the black diodes or the voltage regulator as the culprit, or a stuck/welded relay contact as I think it was Waylew suggested. Using a magnifying glass, or jeweler's loupe, if you have one, is good for looking for burnt components, sometimes when they burn it's only a tiny hole or crack in the case of the component and real hard to see. Traces on the bottom of the board could have burned off also. A shorted diode [or two] , or voltage regulator would probably also be a lot hotter than the rest while the unit is powered on and you could feel if any are hotter than the rest. Be careful though, they definitely can be hot enough to burn and also you don't want to touch any leads and use only one hand when probing around inside, stuff your other hand into your pocket, you don't want to get shocked. It doesn't look like anything in there could shock you very bad but I've never worked on a g-box before, so I don't know.

It is fine now. I didn't have to do anything to get it working again. Thanks!.

 

[. Raine]

Excellent!

 

[turbosat]

He has power steering from GM on that dish now!