Fix Your OpenBox S-9 For 58 Cents

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Pixl

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Feb 27, 2010
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Traverse City, Michigan
I’ve traced the problem of low LNB voltage that causes the S-9 to work for a while then drop off. There is a small part that looks like a disc capacitor near the tuner that actually is a PTC thermistor that goes bad.

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This part provides short circuit protection, but when bad it trips off at loading well under the max rating of 500ma. The two bad ones I have found so far are marked M60 065, W60 065.


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On my own OpenBox that is still working, this part is larger and is marked JK60 065. Digi-Key engineer crossed this to a “Little Fuse” brand part # F1990CT-ND.


IMG_0016-1.jpg


This part can be changed from the top side of the board. Just snip the old one off.


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Then tack solder the new one to the solder pads.


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I then tested the S-9 by operating into a variable power resistor.


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Ran it at 19v. @ 460ma. For two hours. The voltage and current held and the thermistor ran cool.

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http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/60R065XPR/F1990CT-ND/2690458
I ordered a few extra of these, I'll mail these out for free to people who actually have trouble with your lnb voltage. Just PM me with your request and address. Please not for "maybe I might need this" and set it on the shelf.


Update: The part numbers in BOLD have been changed. Also the Digi-Key Link at the end has been updated

Reason for edit: Pixl has been advised by another engineer that Digi-Key slightly over sized this part. The new part number is closer to the original specs.
 
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I bet its the same but now I want to pop open my s10 again and see what the part number is on the one in it.

Nice pics too....Thanks for the tutorial.
 
Hey iceberg we need to post this somewhere:

THE MEMO OF THE WEEK!!

or Probably of the month.....
 
overload

a cut from the m3602 demo board schematic,I didn't circle it so it must be a sore spot even for that board.
 

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I just ordered 2 of them based on your link.
My openbox s9 sometimes just gives me a no signal message from a 75% Q and stable lnb.
I am just going to change it out.
Thank you so much for your insight on this.

Kodaz
 
Great find Pixl! Do you think it is a quality control problem with the original part, or a problem with the engineering of the circuit in general?
 
Great find Pixl! Do you think it is a quality control problem with the original part, or a problem with the engineering of the circuit in general?

It is thought that many of these boxes came from different mfg. in China. Some of those mfg. may have skimped on the specs. of these parts. The trouble some M60 is smaller than the JK60 that is still working in my OpenBox.
 
It seems like it was only yesterday that you offered to fix them for free... now it's 58 cents!!!... :eek:

Seriously a big thank you for all of your work! :bow
 
Super job there Pixl, very nice work.
Hope I don't ever need to use this info on my 2 S9s, but it sure is nice knowing that there are people here on this forum with the knowledge, skills and willingness to figure stuff like this out. :hatsoff:
 
Pixl, You just saved me from digging up the pipe that I thought was a bad RG-6 cable, (I ordered the part today). I replaced a diseq switch then a 22KHz switch & all connectors. Funny thing is that the line going to the C-band dish does not drop out? But the one to the KU dish will run for a few minutes then no signal then it might come back in. Voltage was 12v on vertical & 17v on horizontal. Thanks again.
 
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First Signal

Bigger dish no improvement?

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