Don't know how it got so rusted like it did. It went years without ever getting rusted. I need to do some elevation adjustments, except this bolt is now so rusted that I can't even get the nut to turn with a pipe wrench. It's unreal, almost like someone superglued the nut to the bolt. I would just replace the entire bolt and nut with a new one, but I have no clue where to even find a bolt like that where there is a slot at the top in the bolt. Any one know of any tricks to loosen the nut on the bolt so that I can make some elevation adjustments?
Elevation bolt rusted
- Thread starter highskies
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Spray the nut several times with PB Blaster and let it sit overnight. Gently tap the nut with a hammer while spraying the PB Blaster. If the nut doesn't free up the next day, use a torch to heat the nut - not the threaded shaft. Maybe put aluminum foil on the shaft to shield it from the heat. Good luck!
I wire brush mine and use pb blaster tapping like mentioned above . heat from torch like mentioned above works also
afterwards i clean nut and threads with wire brush & after installing i paint them
afterwards i clean nut and threads with wire brush & after installing i paint them
A torch is not doable since I don't have one nor access to one. But this PB Blaster is doable. I think I will get a can of that and try. I had already thought about WD 40, but wasn't certain it might do the trick or not. But after reading what this PB Blaster is supposed to do, that seems to be what I need then.
Here in the Midwest we have Menard's, which has an expanded hardware section in their larger stores that carries hardware for boats, trailers, trailer jacks, etc. When encountering a similar impossible to fix rusted elevation bolt, I carefully propped up the bottom of the dish with a large cut-to-length framing timber, used an inexpensive die grinder to cut the elevation bolt loose in two places, then some big wrenches to remove the remainder. I ended up with a choice of an eyelet on one end, or a flat rod bent at a 90 degree angle from the new elevation bolt. Gravity and a hammer will install and keep the latter in place, or you can get several large fender washers to secure an eye bolt from moving, as long as you get it tight. Once properly installed, it should not move again.
I've hammered a 1/4 or 5/16 inch nut into the 'eye' of the eye-bolt. Had to grind down a few 'to fit'. Then had them welded. Then drilled out if necessary. No slop (if those sizes suffice)
Good liberal soaking with PBB/WD while tapping and/or wiggling. Let it work for a few hours. Then reapply and 'go to town' on it. Wiggling with a wrench and hammer (and heat if necessary) May find wire brushing the threads adjacent to the nut may also help.
Spray all bolts like these at least twice a year with WD40 and/or coat with grease to prevent rust. Even if the hardware is Stainless. I've seen them 'lock up' also. GL..
Good liberal soaking with PBB/WD while tapping and/or wiggling. Let it work for a few hours. Then reapply and 'go to town' on it. Wiggling with a wrench and hammer (and heat if necessary) May find wire brushing the threads adjacent to the nut may also help.
Spray all bolts like these at least twice a year with WD40 and/or coat with grease to prevent rust. Even if the hardware is Stainless. I've seen them 'lock up' also. GL..
It's not hard to do. You can get a torch like this one at hardware stores, for $10-20:
Good idea! I apply it when I'm changing winter/summer tires on my vehicles. A small container goes a long way.
sgs
Still haven't gotten around to trying anything suggested here as of yet...mainly because the weather outside has pretty much sucked lately, and now it's been raining non stop for some reason. But when I do get around to it, I think I will try the PB Blaster first, since I can get that over at Walmart apparently, and that Walmart is less than 1/4 mile from where I live. Thanks for all the suggestions thusfar. 
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