Edision Edison Mio Has No Signal

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Is the KU LNBF mounted on the BUD or do you use a separate KU dish with motor? Your current wiring path is correct and will work fine if both C-band and KU-band LNBFs are on the same motorized BUD.

Bypass the switch and run the coax directly from the ASC1 LNB port to the KU KNBF and test for KU-band reception on the STB.

Is the 22KHz switch settings programmed correctly both of the STB's LNB menus?
Example:
  • LNB1 22KHz OFF
  • LNB2 22KHz ON
 
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Brian,

My kU LNBF shares my BUD with my C Band LNBF.
Yes my switch settings are as you described.
I will try your suggestion tomorrow.
Thanks again for all your help.

John.
 
JFOK said:
Arlo,

Until a few days ago, I never had an issue with the ASC1, my chosen image and my 22khz switch…they played nicely together.
I don’t know why there would be a voltage issue all of a sudden, when I haven’t messed with the voltage settings.
Thanks for replying.

John
Click to expand...
Kind of ignore this and instead let Brian be the diagnostician. But read it over.

It makes sense that the switch should always work on the 0 kHz port.
Perhaps change the receiver settings temporarily to not use a switch for C & ku (but keep it in the circuit).
And bypassing the ASC-1. Receiver>Switch in>0 Khz port out.
Use the C band lnbf on that port and check you get a signal. Yes?
Power it all down. Just to be sure unplug the receiver power.
Swap the ku coax and use the 0 kHz port. Power it back up.
Can you get signal on for ku? Yes.
Considering that the 0 kHz port is "straight through" the switch.
Then change the receiver settings to port 2 of the switch. So it gets 22 kHz all of the time for C & ku.
Power it all down. Unplug the power supply jack.
Put your C band coax on port 2. Power it up.
With 22 kHz multiplexed on the coax out of the receiver. The switch "should" be on port 2 (22 kHz).
Do you get C band channels? Yes?
Then the switch is good. Power down and swap the ku lnbf coax to to port 2 of the switch.
Fire it back up again. Getting ku channels? Yes? Hope so.
Again. Receiver off, juice removed. Put the ASC-1 in the mix.
The ASC-1 "should" pass through 22 kHz from the receiver to the switch. Fire it all up again. Still using port 2 (because you haven't changed receiver settings).
Getting ku channels still? Switch is good and the the ASC-1 is passing the frequency that activates port 2.
Again. EVERYTHING off cold. ASC-1 power switch off. Repeat it all just like when the ASC-1 was out of the signal path. A pita, yes. I know.
The only thing left, if everything works, is to change the receiver settings to use the switch.
Hook up the coax cables to Port 1 & Port 2 of the switch. Make sure you set the receiver to use the right ports.
Aye, Capn?
 
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arlo said:
Kind of ignore this and instead let Brian be the diagnostician. But read it over.

It makes sense that the switch should always work on the 0 kHz port.
Perhaps change the receiver settings temporarily to not use a switch for C & ku (but keep it in the circuit).
And bypassing the ASC-1. Receiver>Switch in>0 Khz port out.
Use the C band lnbf on that port and check you get a signal. Yes?
Power it all down. Just to be sure unplug the receiver power.
Swap the ku coax and use the 0 kHz port. Power it back up.
Can you get signal on for ku? Yes.
Considering that the 0 kHz port is "straight through" the switch.
Then change the receiver settings to port 2 of the switch. So it gets 22 kHz all of the time for C & ku.
Power it all down. Unplug the power supply jack.
Put your C band coax on port 2. Power it up.
With 22 kHz multiplexed on the coax out of the receiver. The switch "should" be on port 2 (22 kHz).
Do you get C band channels? Yes?
Then the switch is good. Power down and swap the ku lnbf coax to to port 2 of the switch.
Fire it back up again. Getting ku channels? Yes? Hope so.
Again. Receiver off, juice removed. Put the ASC-1 in the mix.
The ASC-1 "should" pass through 22 kHz from the receiver to the switch. Fire it all up again. Still using port 2 (because you haven't changed receiver settings).
Getting ku channels still? Switch is good and the the ASC-1 is passing the frequency that activates port 2.
Again. EVERYTHING off cold. ASC-1 power switch off. Repeat it all just like when the ASC-1 was out of the signal path. A pita, yes. I know.
The only thing left, if everything works, is to change the receiver settings to use the switch.
Hook up the coax cables to Port 1 & Port 2 of the switch. Make sure you set the receiver to use the right ports.
Aye, Capn?
Click to expand...
Arlo,

Thanks for the detailed instructions… very appreciative.
I’m kinda busy today, but will try to start this procedure this evening if possible.
If not, will do tomorrow.
I’ll let you know how it goes.
Thanks again.

John
 
Arlo,

I was able to complete step one of your instructions. Unfortunately the windstorm in my area messed up my kU
LNBF, knocking it off center…so no signal there. With temps here in the low 30s it was too cold to refocus it today, but with warmer weather tomorrow, I’ll fix that issue and resume repairs.
Thanks again.

John.
 
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Arlo and All,

I followed your instructions and got the following….

Receiver>Switch in>0 Khz port out.
Use the C band lnbf on that port and check you get a signal. (Yes)

Swap the ku coax and use the 0 kHz port. Power it back up.
Can you get signal on for ku? (No)

Put your C band coax on port 2. Power it up. The switch "should" be on port 2 (22 kHz). Do you get C band channels? (No)

Power down and swap the ku lnbf coax to to port 2 of the switch.
Fire it back up again. Getting ku channels? (No)

Without hooking up the ASC 1 and all settings for C and kU in the receiver and on the 22khz switch returned to what they should be I rescanned 105w C Band and 97w kU and got nothing.
I then rescanned 97kU and 105w with the ASC 1 hooked up and got nothing. I rechecked my receiver settings once again and they were correct for C and kU bands. I also checked the ASC1 settings and they were good. I unplugged my system with each change.
Is my switch dead ?

John

** I just replaced tbe 22 khz switch and it got me C Band once again, but only vertical transponders and no kU whatso ever.
I noticed that the ASC1 isnt switching between H and V.
 
Last edited:
Hi all,

Hope those of you who celebrate Christmas had a wonderful day.
So as for my dish system, as it stands now, I am directly connected C Band wise, to my STB. I am getting H and V channels on all of C Band. I have no kU currently due to an issue with my ASC 1.
The ASC 1 is not changing polarities and not allowing me to switch between C and kU. The 22khz switch, which I replaced seems to be working normally.
What’s my next step ?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions

John.
 
JFOK said:
Hi all,

Hope those of you who celebrate Christmas had a wonderful day.
So as for my dish system, as it stands now, I am directly connected C Band wise, to my STB. I am getting H and V channels on all of C Band. I have no kU currently due to an issue with my ASC 1.
The ASC 1 is not changing polarities and not allowing me to switch between C and kU. The 22khz switch, which I replaced seems to be working normally.
What’s my next step ?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions

John.
Click to expand...
Perhaps factory reset the ASC-1, and/or reflash its firmware, as it may have been corrupted somehow? Though if it was me, I'd contact Brian directly and ask him. Email him, (he prefers that) don't PM him: support@titaniumsatellite.com

Here's the downloads:

 
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Hi Mike,

Hope you’re feeling better.
A factory reset did cross my mind, but I don’t want to go this route if not necessary, as I lose all my satellite settings.
Let me see if Brian chimes in here with a suggestion otherwise I’ll email him directly. Thanks for the email address and thanks for replying.

John
 
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JFOK said:
Hi Mike,

Hope you’re feeling better.
A factory reset did cross my mind, but I don’t want to go this route if not necessary, as I lose all my satellite settings.
Let me see if Brian chimes in here with a suggestion otherwise I’ll email him directly. Thanks for the email address and thanks for replying.

John
Click to expand...
Never did get all that sick this time. Finished the Paxlovid (and the horrid taste it has) on Wednesday, and tested negative again on Saturday. Still have a bit of cough, but that may be my chronic bronchitis acting up. It usually does that all through the 6 months on mid-Michigan Winter. All you need is a little cold and damp weather...
 
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JFOK said:
Arlo and All,

I followed your instructions and got the following….


To Verify.

Receiver>Switch in>0 Khz port out.
Use the C band lnbf on that port and check you get a signal. (Yes)


Meaning in Tuner Setup LNB is set to LNB 1
All LO settings are 10750
Voltage mode is set to Polarization (Because you're using 13/18 volts to switch polarities).
Tone Mode is set to On (because you're not using a high/low band lnbf and don't need 22 kHz over coax to switch bands but you do want to send it to control the switch).


Swap the ku coax and use the 0 kHz port. Power it back up.
Can you get signal on for ku? (No)

Okay then. Are you sure that the tuner settings are identical to the C band lnbf ones? Besides the lbf type and LO settings? Remember. The switch with no 22 kHz signal is just a pass thru device using the 0 kHz port. In essence you should be able to hook the ku band coax to the receiver directly and get a signal. Once you get that, hook it to the 0 kHz port. You must get a signal.

Put your C band coax on port 2. Power it up. The switch "should" be on port 2 (22 kHz). Do you get C band channels? (No)

Did you make all of the receiver tuner settings to send 22 kHz out to it over the coax?
Port 2 will never be active until you do that.

Power down and swap the ku lnbf coax to to port 2 of the switch.
Fire it back up again. Getting ku channels? (No)

Same as above....

Without hooking up the ASC 1 and all settings for C and kU in the receiver and on the 22khz switch returned to what they should be I rescanned 105w C Band and 97w kU and got nothing.
I then rescanned 97kU and 105w with the ASC 1 hooked up and got nothing. I rechecked my receiver settings once again and they were correct for C and kU bands. I also checked the ASC1 settings and they were good. I unplugged my system with each change.
Is my switch dead ?

John

** I just replaced tbe 22 khz switch and it got me C Band once again, but only vertical transponders and no kU whatso ever.
I noticed that the ASC1 isnt switching between H and V.

Voltage mode does that. Again. If a direct coax hookup from receiver to dish works good. And the ASC-1 lnb setting is correct. It should see the receiver switching polarity and relay that over coax to the dish. If you spend a lot of time like I did. Spend the bucks and get a DISEqC switch. It will work.
Without the ability to snoop the coax with a frequency meter to find just when and how receiver settings actually send the tone out. It's just as much of a pita as it was for me. I probably have 4 good 22 kHz switches here that I couldn't get to work. When I got my DISEqC switch to work after a long time with the others. Immediately I have to add. Didn't pee with the tone switches any more. Not saying that they are good or bad because others use them. I'm lazy?
Click to expand...
 
Hi arlo,

I will once again revisit all connections and try the settings you suggested.
I have to make one correction.
With C Band directly connected from the 0 side of the 22khz switch to my stb, I am getting both H and V polarities, not just one polarity as I earlier stated.
I’m enclosing a picture of the stb settings for both C Band and kU that ALWAYS worked for me.
Thanks for replying.

John A7CA0A22-19B0-406D-AE8B-82CDA2DBC86D.jpegED90E4DF-06AE-4265-A5BB-CFE3E8825763.jpeg
 
arlo said:
"Toneburst". That's what I was trying to remember. I got the link from tvro.
Pretty good explanation and guide for setting up different scenarios.
Look in section 2.3.4.
No tone, port 0 of the switch is straight through it. Send a tone and port 2 turns on. Give it a shot.

Click to expand...

However, a 'tone switch' is different from a 'toneburst switch'.
(Toneburst is sometimes called mini-diseqc, or simple diseqc.)
That is missing in this tutorial, it seems?

I haven't followed the rest of this thread though, so cannot give advice.

Greetz,
A33
 
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a33 said:
However, a 'tone switch' is different from a 'toneburst switch'.
(Toneburst is sometimes called mini-diseqc, or simple diseqc.)
That is missing in this tutorial, it seems?

I haven't followed the rest of this thread though, so cannot give advice.

Greetz,
A33
Click to expand...
I know. It's a little fuzzy. I grabbed another link from the ViX team. It's a bit more thorough.
Committed vs uncommitted switch. Continuous tone. Committed switches get a tone burst coded with 'switch to port A,B.....A,B,C.D' and stay there as long as they get power. Uncommitted. Like I'm pretty sure is used here. Needs a continuous tone to keep the switch on port B. And universal lnb's that get a burst to switch from low to high band. They toggle frequency bands. The tone is coded to do that. So they are 'committed' to performing a task. Multi-port committed switches should do the same thing. Too bad a lot of the guides are written by guys fluid in the usage of peripherals and don't granulate it for nubies or even seasoned folks who may have never used them before.
Just trying to help.


 
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Hi all,

Good News !!!
Apparently, after going through all the recommended procedures and coming up empty handed, it turns out that the problem was the 22 htz switch.
I don’t know why the previous switch went bad as I’m always careful when doing any maintenance, I always unplug the entire system.
I want to thank all those who took the time to assist me, it was much appreciated and once again it just proves how helpful the “Satellite Community” really is.
Thanks again.

John
 
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