DPP33 & Solo Node connection nightmare!

[ScubaGuy]

A partial answer you don't have DPP LNB's if you have single or duals on your dishes. A DPP TWIN was made for dishes such as the 500 or original 1000. All that really means is band stacking was used instead of voltage switching used on Legacy LNB's (original DISH or Directv LNB)
DPH42 takes DP LNBs and converts them to work on hybrid systems giving correct frequencies and satellites.

If you can see 61.5 and 72.7 you only need 2 dishes to get all of DISH's programming. 61.5 & 72.7 will work with your existing Hopper 1.

Sorry if I called my LNBs by the incorrect name. I've attached a picture to show you what type I use.

For the longest time, everyone where I live only tuned in to 119. Eventually, they started to add a second dish for 110. Then someone got smart and figured out that you can actually just make an "L" bracket and add another LNB to the dish for 119 and pick up 110 also with just one dish. I never tried myself, but I was told that 129 is too far below the horizon to get a good line of sight, so as far as I know, no one uses it.

When I first set my system up, I did a ton of research into seeing which satellites I should use in order to get HD programming. At that time, it appeared that 61.5 was the one to use, so I think I may have been one of the first to even try and see if it could be done. I was able to pick it up, but unfortunately, very shortly afterwards, DISH switched over to using a new satellite at that location which was pretty much just spot beams (which of course I'm nowhere close to being under any of them). Then I switched to using 119 and 110 on one dish, and 72.7 on another. That's how I've been set up ever since. Like I said though, it appears that I'm now going to need to switch back from 72.7 to 61.5. I haven't done a comparison using the List to see if I would be better off just looking at 72.7 and 61.5 instead, though.

 

[boba]

You should be able to use a much simpler setup to get 61.5 and 72.7. When you get your dishes setup you should be able to take one line from the 61.5 dish to port #1 on the solo node and one line from the 72.7 to port 2 on the solo node. On the solo node the to host port should go to the HOPPER and the to client port gets a 2 way splitter and the 2 JOEYS.. You should be up and running with all your programming

 

[ScubaGuy]

You should be able to use a much simpler setup to get 61.5 and 72.7. When you get your dishes setup you should be able to take one line from the 61.5 dish to port #1 on the solo node and one line from the 72.7 to port 2 on the solo node. On the solo node the to host port should go to the HOPPER and the to client port gets a 2 way splitter and the 2 JOEYS.. You should be up and running with all your programming

Great suggestion! I hadn't tried that (although keep in mind, I don't have my 8' dish set up with the LNB or pointed yet). I just used your suggestion and removed the DPP33 and swapped in the node. So that meant that the two RG6 cables coming into the garage from my 119 and 110 LNBs were hooked straight to the LNB ports on the Solo Node, and then the host port hooked to the RG6 going to the living room where the Hopper is, and then the client port going to the RG6 going to the master bedroom where one of the Joeys is (although no TV is connected to the Joey yet - still waiting to be taken out of the box). I rebooted the Hopper and then did another check switch, but unfortunately, nothing. Again coming up with no switch and no node connected, with of course, no signal.

When hooking it back up the way that I had it before with the DPP33 in the garage and connected to the LNBs, it dawned on me that when digging through my boxes of satellite stuff, I had come across a Tap (part # 190506) still brand new in the plastic. I looked back at the Hopper Installation Job Aid pdf to see what is a Tap for, and decided even though it states that Taps are only supposed to be connected to Host lines, I thought, "What the hell!" and decided to try it. I connected one of the outputs of the DPP33 to the Tap, and the Host and Client ports of the Tap to the living room and master bedroom lines. I did another Hopper reboot and check switch, and now the Joey is showing up! I still have the issue that only two tuners of the Hopper show signals (both 110 and 119, as they should), and also still have the mysterious 118 showing up on tuner 3.

Does this information help anyone with figuring out what is going on? Is there anything wrong with me using the Tap in the meantime (so I can get the master bedroom TV working for my wife)? And again, why in the world does the Solo Node only work when connected right at the Hopper?

 

[NYDutch]

Obviously, I don't know exactly where the OP is, but using the VI as a reference, the 129 sat is at 16.6 degrees, which should be "seeable" if he's within the footprint. Upstate NY has 129 at about the same elevation, and 129 works there. Of course, the eastern arc at the higher elevation is usually much easier to "see".

 

[HipKat]

Obviously, I don't know exactly where the OP is, but using the VI as a reference, the 129 sat is at 16.6 degrees, which should be "seeable" if he's within the footprint. Upstate NY has 129 at about the same elevation, and 129 works there. Of course, the eastern arc at the higher elevation is usually much easier to "see".

Yeah, Buffalo, the 129 is at 18. Seeable but I bet the signal strength is pretty weak

 

[Jim5506]

When sats get that low in the sky, they have 3-4X more atmosphere to transit.

 

[NYDutch]

Yeah, Buffalo, the 129 is at 18. Seeable but I bet the signal strength is pretty weak

Our H2 can "see" 129 with a 40-45 strength reading at our cottage in the southern Adirondacks using our portable 1K4 dish. The EA strengths with our permanently installed 1K4 there are about 55-65. I had to run out 250 feet of coax and locate the dish on an access road to get a clear WA LOS though, so the long cable run may have affected the strength.

 

[HipKat]

Our H2 can "see" 129 with a 40-45 strength reading at our cottage in the southern Adirondacks using our portable 1K4 dish. The EA strengths with our permanently installed 1K4 there are about 55-65. I had to run out 250 feet of coax and locate the dish on an access road to get a clear WA LOS though, so the long cable run may have affected the strength.

I'm sure it does. The dBM's at that distance are probably pretty high, but those are decent signal strengths. The formula i 1 point per 10 feet, plus 1.5 at each connection. Normally, at the Dish, dBM's read from about 26 to about 31 so you have to be way over the 50 threshold where signal loss could occur.

Why do you have one for the 129 if you have a .4 eastern arc?? Which btw, you could possibly replace with a 1000.2 eastern arc

 

[boba]

Scubaguy Amazon/Ebay have solo nodes $10-15 have you thought about replacing yours?

 

[boba]

Scubaguy Amazon/Ebay have solo nodes $10-15 have you thought about replacing yours?

Actually found Ebay as low as $8.99 with free shipping.for "NEW".

 

[NYDutch]

I'm sure it does. The dBM's at that distance are probably pretty high, but those are decent signal strengths. The formula i 1 point per 10 feet, plus 1.5 at each connection. Normally, at the Dish, dBM's read from about 26 to about 31 so you have to be way over the 50 threshold where signal loss could occur.

Why do you have one for the 129 if you have a .4 eastern arc?? Which btw, you could possibly replace with a 1000.2 eastern arc

I set up the portable 1K4 dish at our cottage just to test a used WA triple LNB that I salvaged for a spare for the RV. The permanent dish at the cottage is a 1K4 with an EA triple LNB, and I see no reason to switch to a 1K2. On the road with our RV, we use the portable 1K4 with either an EA or WA triple LNB depending on the available aiming opportunities and/or where the locals are. Having the triple EA LNB has been a help sometimes as well when the tree cover only allows a limited view of one arc, and I can hit the 72.7 and 77 sats, but not 61.5 and 72.7. Now that Dish has moved so many channels to 61.5 though, I may have to just hit 61.5 in those situations to get most of the channels we want. We'll see how it works out when the situation arises again.

 

[ScubaGuy]

Actually found Ebay as low as $8.99 with free shipping.for "NEW".

Hi boba,

Oh yes, I've most definitely thought about replacing it, but unfortunately, I can't just go down to the local satellite store and pick one up, and shipping items here is expensive and a headache. I'm going back to the States to visit family in a couple of weeks, so my plan is to buy everything that I need when there (probably order it ahead of time).

So I'm guessing that since you've asked me about buying one that you must think that it may be the problem. Is it normal for one to be working fine when located close to the Hopper, but not work when 50' away? Is it possible that it's not getting enough power when located further away (I thought about this when looking at the DPH42 and its power inserter)?

Another thing that I'm going to need to figure out is whether I want to upgrade my equipment (at considerable cost), or just stick with what I have. I have also thought about buying another receiver (such as a Hopper w/Sling) that will work with my existing equipment just so I'll have a backup in the event that my Hopper has a problem.

I've asked several questions and made some comments that have yet to be addressed by anyone that are making it very difficult for me to figure out what to do. I've now come across something that is confusing me more. In looking at the 2016 Hopper 3 wiring diagram, it shows a set up using the DPH42 switch with two Hopper 3s, and in the glossary, it defines a DISH PRO HYBRID 42 SWITCH by stating that "This switch allows two Hopper 3 DVRs to be installed using a single DISH traditional 1000.2 antenna. Each Hopper 3 forms its own MoCA video network with connected Joeys. The switch comes with a 110 VAC power supply unit." However, I've seen several people post that DISH won't allow two Hopper 3s on the same account, and I've also seen people state that you can't/shouldn't use two in the same house. This obviously is contrary to what the diagram shows. What I'm really curious about is this: if the switch allows there to be two completely separate MoCA networks, would it be possible to put my existing Hopper with two original Joeys on one side, and a single Hopper 3 on the other? When looking at prices, a Hopper 3 doesn't cost much more than a Hopper w/Sling, so I'd rather just get the current technology. However, I don't really want to buy three brand new Joeys, too.

 

[boba]

Hi boba,

Oh yes, I've most definitely thought about replacing it, but unfortunately, I can't just go down to the local satellite store and pick one up, and shipping items here is expensive and a headache. I'm going back to the States to visit family in a couple of weeks, so my plan is to buy everything that I need when there (probably order it ahead of time).

So I'm guessing that since you've asked me about buying one that you must think that it may be the problem. Is it normal for one to be working fine when located close to the Hopper, but not work when 50' away? Is it possible that it's not getting enough power when located further away (I thought about this when looking at the DPH42 and its power inserter)?

Another thing that I'm going to need to figure out is whether I want to upgrade my equipment (at considerable cost), or just stick with what I have. I have also thought about buying another receiver (such as a Hopper w/Sling) that will work with my existing equipment just so I'll have a backup in the event that my Hopper has a problem.

I've asked several questions and made some comments that have yet to be addressed by anyone that are making it very difficult for me to figure out what to do. I've now come across something that is confusing me more. In looking at the 2016 Hopper 3 wiring diagram, it shows a set up using the DPH42 switch with two Hopper 3s, and in the glossary, it defines a DISH PRO HYBRID 42 SWITCH by stating that "This switch allows two Hopper 3 DVRs to be installed using a single DISH traditional 1000.2 antenna. Each Hopper 3 forms its own MoCA video network with connected Joeys. The switch comes with a 110 VAC power supply unit." However, I've seen several people post that DISH won't allow two Hopper 3s on the same account, and I've also seen people state that you can't/shouldn't use two in the same house. This obviously is contrary to what the diagram shows. What I'm really curious about is this: if the switch allows there to be two completely separate MoCA networks, would it be possible to put my existing Hopper with two original Joeys on one side, and a single Hopper 3 on the other? When looking at prices, a Hopper 3 doesn't cost much more than a Hopper w/Sling, so I'd rather just get the current technology. However, I don't really want to buy three brand new Joeys, too.

MAKE UP YOUR MIND. CAN YOU GET A HOPPER 3 INSTALLED? If yes go for it and forget everything else. If NO then HWS is the best you can do.

The node could fail at any time at that low a price I would have the spare.

 

[HipKat]

Dish will allow 2 Hopper 3’s, it’s in the diagrams released with the 42 switch, however, I’m 99% sure one must be purchased

 

[Bobby]

MAKE UP YOUR MIND. CAN YOU GET A HOPPER 3 INSTALLED? If yes go for it and forget everything else. If NO then HWS is the best you can do.

The node could fail at any time at that low a price I would have the spare.

For God’s sake, have you read any of this thread? He is not in the United States! There is no installer for him except himself...

 

[ScubaGuy]

For God’s sake, have you read any of this thread? He is not in the United States! There is no installer for him except himself...

Exactly! And if you'll recall, I stated earlier that I'm quite concerned about buying anything other (such as a Hopper 3) than what I have (maybe a HWS would be okay?), install it myself, and then contact DISH and ask them to activate it, just to have them say that they're going to have to send out a tech (like they did a friend of mine). If you guys think that I can somehow get around that issue (and if you think that it is indeed something that I could do myself without too big of a problem), then I am willing to try.

That last sentence actually made me think of something else. My service address is in New York City, so if there is a tech on here in that area that would be willing to call DISH and tell them that they have made the service call to my house, that would probably get me around that little issue. Hmmmm....

By the way, I finally got around to unboxing the TV for the master bedroom and hooked it up to the Joey, and it is working great (other than the fact that only two tuners work, and the stupid software isn't smart enough to not try and use tuner 3 even though it clearly shows as nothing there when you do a check switch). No one ever told me whether I shouldn't use a Tap in the way that I am, so I sure hope that I'm not going to hurt anything.

I definitely agree that it makes sense to buy an extra Solo Node considering how cheap they are. I'm actually also thinking it might be good to also get an extra switch. My instincts say to buy the DPH42, but I've mentioned several times whether one will work with the original Hopper, and I haven't gotten that answer yet.

 

[HipKat]

Yes, it will work with all 3 Hoppers. If it were me, other than a Hopper 3, I would at least get Hopper Sling. The H2K is junk. The CUI ruined it. Sling has better-hardware, twice the storage and built in WiFi.

 

[HipKat]

Also, you may as well upgrade your Joeys. The new ones are much faster than the old ones.

 

[satnewb]

You should be able to use a much simpler setup to get 61.5 and 72.7. When you get your dishes setup you should be able to take one line from the 61.5 dish to port #1 on the solo node and one line from the 72.7 to port 2 on the solo node. On the solo node the to host port should go to the HOPPER and the to client port gets a 2 way splitter and the 2 JOEYS.. You should be up and running with all your programming

You can't run from those lnb's to the node without a switch.

 

[ScubaGuy]

You can't run from those lnb's to the node without a switch.

Thanks for the info. I'm currently in discussions with the Chief Finance Officer (my wife) as to which way we should go in regards to this problem. I'm also going to contact the satellite shop where I bought all of the equipment five years ago and see what they think about going with a Hopper 3 (to see if it is even possible for me to do the install myself, and if they will help me in the event that Dish starts asking too many questions).