DP 34 Switch and SuperDish

briansanders007

SatelliteGuys Pro
Original poster
Nov 24, 2003
295
0
I having some issues with my picture on 119. Seems like it keeps dropping off. Looking at my switch (dp34) does it matter what sat location is connected to the three sat inputs on the left side of the switch. It says dish 500 on the first 2 and dish 300 on the 3 port. Should it be 110 and 119 on dish 500 ports and 105 on the dish 300 port or does it matter? I have 105 on the first port, 110 on the second and 119 on the third port. That's how it was installed and wondered if thats right.
 
Some claim it makes no difference what order. Dish recomends 119 on 1,110 on 2, and whatever your third sat (if any) on 3.
 
One way to see if it's your switch is to note on Chk Switch Screen what SATs are on what inputs, then switch the sat cables around on the switch. If you still lose 119 it's a Dish issue (repeak). If you start losing signal on the 105 or 110 (either one of which will be on the input 119 USED to be on) you know you have a bad port on the switch.
n0qcu said:
Some claim it makes no difference what order. Dish recomends 119 on 1,110 on 2, and whatever your third sat (if any) on 3.
Like Kevin says, don't worry about what cables go to what inputs. I've tried them all, no probs. I usually do 105 to input 1, 110 to 2, 119 to 3 just to make it easier for the next guy who may have to troubleshoot the system.
 
I have had one DP-34 go bad in which port 1 would work, port 2 wouldn't work, port 3 would get some satellites but when I switched the port 1 and port 3 wires both tested good. Port 4 worked fine. This is the ports in which the receivers connect to. I put a new switch on it and it has worked fine for a month or two now.
 
BluEBoaR said:
... Like Kevin says, don't worry about what cables go to what inputs. I've tried them all, no probs. I usually do 105 to input 1, 110 to 2, 119 to 3 just to make it easier for the next guy who may have to troubleshoot the system.
You mean the next guy will automatically know that you did NOT do it according to the book, and exactly how you decided not to? :no
 
8 port switches

I am being installed on Saturday with an 811 and three 311's. I also bought a used 311, am looking for another and I intend on upgrading the 811 to a 942 later. So - I will eventually need 6 ports (2 for 942, plus 4 for the 311's). I know that the given way to do this would be to cascade one DP34 off another. But - does anyone make a Dish Pro compatible 3x8 or 5x8 switch? Seems to me that cascading would introduce more loss than a single switch...
 
I have a DP34 switch for my 921 and 508 setup. Unfortunately one of my COAX caps came off while moving stuff around, and when I just inserted the bare wire into the DP34 I saw an ever so tiny spark. Consequently I blew port 2 and 3 on the switch so I hadda buy a new one. Looks like you are good to go though, but if it starts acting up again, know that individiual outputs on the switch can go bad.
 
bbtkd said:
I am being installed on Saturday with an 811 and three 311's. I also bought a used 311, am looking for another and I intend on upgrading the 811 to a 942 later. So - I will eventually need 6 ports (2 for 942, plus 4 for the 311's). I know that the given way to do this would be to cascade one DP34 off another. But - does anyone make a Dish Pro compatible 3x8 or 5x8 switch? Seems to me that cascading would introduce more loss than a single switch...
Not an issue until you get OVER 3 DP34's in a row.
 

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