My 15yo Klipsch 12" downfiring subwoofer has developed a nasty loud rattle sound (almost snapping) on movies with a lot of deep base (explosions, etc). I had to turn the speaker down ~6db to stop hearing it so now I suspect I'm not getting anything from it. Is it worth trying to repair or should I just spring for a new one? Looks like a replacement is under $500.
Do Subwoofers Fail
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Sounds like it's blown, you could look for replacements online, monoprice, Dayton etc. but results may vary.
My old Sunfire sub had a power transistor fail, blowing the fuse. I tried to bypass the 10A fuse with a higher rating and this caused the power transistor to become a plasma arc cutter, burning a hole through the multi-layer circuitboard underneath. So, yes, a subwoofer can go bad.
I've seen the voice coil on the speaker motor become delaminated, causing contact with the stator and making a "tick" or "scratch" to the sound. Usually a problem with overdriving the speaker, or a failure in the adhesive holding the voice coil together.
I've seen the voice coil on the speaker motor become delaminated, causing contact with the stator and making a "tick" or "scratch" to the sound. Usually a problem with overdriving the speaker, or a failure in the adhesive holding the voice coil together.
We have an old Pioneer S-W1000 active subwoofer/center channel that I managed to get free about 20 years ago. The parents of a teen gave it away because the teen played music too loud and the sub was really bothering them.
This made a great addition to our home theater setup. Rather than trying to remember to turn it on and off every time we used the system I just kept it turned on all the time. Fast forward to a couple of years ago. One winter we started hearing an occasional crackling sound. Since we had recently received a big snow and ice storm that had started to melt we associated the sound with the snow and ice melting and shifting on the roof. One day the sound turned into large booms and I realized it was the sub. I took it apart, sourced parts and installed all new capacitors. I also cleaned all the switches and potentiometers with Caid Laboratories DeoxIT D5. To avoid having it turned on all the time I added a Russound ACT-1 triggered AC outlet to the 12V trigger on the amp. It has been working great since the refurb!
This made a great addition to our home theater setup. Rather than trying to remember to turn it on and off every time we used the system I just kept it turned on all the time. Fast forward to a couple of years ago. One winter we started hearing an occasional crackling sound. Since we had recently received a big snow and ice storm that had started to melt we associated the sound with the snow and ice melting and shifting on the roof. One day the sound turned into large booms and I realized it was the sub. I took it apart, sourced parts and installed all new capacitors. I also cleaned all the switches and potentiometers with Caid Laboratories DeoxIT D5. To avoid having it turned on all the time I added a Russound ACT-1 triggered AC outlet to the 12V trigger on the amp. It has been working great since the refurb!
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Be watchful about losing some features with the newer models. Older models had speaker pass-through as well as an RCA jack and if you're system needs speaker pass-through, most of the cheap subs don't provide it.
I picked up 2 of these,
Quite recently,
After a 10 year old sub died.
Put 1 on either side of entertainment center.
Best bang for buck in subs.
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Quite recently,
After a 10 year old sub died.
Put 1 on either side of entertainment center.
Best bang for buck in subs.
Monoprice Premium Select 8in 200-Watt Subwoofer - Monoprice.com
Get big sound at the low end by adding this Select 8‑inch 200‑watt Subwoofer to your existing audio system. Enjoy deep, rich bass in music and experience the room rattling rumble
www.monoprice.com
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Bad surround on thr driver?? ?? More info... It is a KSW-12 powered. Fed into the LFE input from a Denon receiver. Bypass set on 120, level on 5. I will look at it to see if it has come apart between the coil and speaker parts. Not sure if I know how to determine that. My floor standing speakers are also Klipsch (RF3 II) and I'm not sure that I'm really needing a sub. The room is ~25x17 but seating is ~12-15 from the speakers and mostly used for movie watching (very little music).
I've been running 4 DefTech BP2006s for years with no problems until recently. One of the boards went. Luckily enough I had access to a pair of BP7006s, so I just swapped the pair out.
I believe that you would miss a subwoofer if it went away. The RF3 II is rated for 37Hz to 22KHz with a pretty leisurely drop-off at the low end. If you hadn't had a sub before, it would likely be a different experience.
I have one of these. There could be something simple at play here. The Klipsch is a ported sub with an open port in back. It is possible to have foreign material dropped in the port and become wedged in the back of the cone.
I would suggest opening it up and seeing if there is something in there before buying a new sub. You can also look for torn cone or sticking coil at that time.
An online search shows replacement elements and/or amps available for about half the cost of a replacement sub.
I would suggest opening it up and seeing if there is something in there before buying a new sub. You can also look for torn cone or sticking coil at that time.
An online search shows replacement elements and/or amps available for about half the cost of a replacement sub.
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Since your avatar says you live in S/E Texas it could be that the cone has dried out as some people have said.
I have had two Polk Subwoofers fail. The first failure was due to a voltage surge that wiped out a TV, subwoofer, variable speed furnace blower, and furnace control module. The fuses on the subwoofer kept blowing. My homeowners insurance helped cover the loss. The second failure was under warranty and the Polk engineers sent me a replacement subwoofer circuit. The failure started with chirps that eventually got louder and louder. The Polk technician said that the problem was due to blown capacitors.
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