I couldn't find the answer anywhere, so I'm sorry if this has been discussed before. I'm in Maryland and we have to upgrade to the 1000.4 Eastern Arc dish & my husband has decided to do it himself. I know that it can be mounted to the existing mast. We have 2 dishes right now. So my question is this. Which mast do we connect it to? The one with the Dish 500 on it or the other? Thanks in advance.
Dish 1000.4 installation question.
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The other one currently pointed to 61.5. My installer used my old mast without problem. But I highly recommend that your husband use the struts that come with the 1000.4. Otherwise the winds around here will blow it over.
Well, he's gonna have to put the new mast up after all. It didn't come with struts, it came with the sturdier 1K4 mast. Oh well. It's not like it will be hard to do. Thanks again.
I haven't seen that sturdier mast. I hope it has an enormous baseplate, 
because the mast itself is not the problem so far as I've seen.
because the mast itself is not the problem so far as I've seen.
roughly the same as a 500 mast just thicker wall pipe and same size base.I haven't seen that sturdier mast. I hope it has an enormous baseplate,
I don't like the sound of that. It's not the mast or the base, but the underlying material. The 500 I had blow down just ripped the lag screws right out of the roof. I stayed that particular mast so it wouldn't happen again, and I like the sturdy looks of the 1000.4 with struts.
I second that. I, however, prefer #14 hardened hex drive fully threaded sheet metal screws.
The SPAX brand sold at Home Depot of the Simpson Strong Tie hardened galvanized screws meet the SAE grade 5 125,000 psi tensile standards.
Cheap Grade 2 lags have only 75,000 or 85,000 psi tensil standards and easily snap when power driven without predrilled pilot holes.
Using an impact driver, I don't predrill.
Yes, I have been a professional dbs installer for 12 years, and a c-band and OTA antenna installer before that.
The SPAX brand sold at Home Depot of the Simpson Strong Tie hardened galvanized screws meet the SAE grade 5 125,000 psi tensile standards.
Cheap Grade 2 lags have only 75,000 or 85,000 psi tensil standards and easily snap when power driven without predrilled pilot holes.
Using an impact driver, I don't predrill.
Yes, I have been a professional dbs installer for 12 years, and a c-band and OTA antenna installer before that.
amylyn1970 said:
Why does he need the new mast? Mine went right on the wing dish mast (61.5 sat). Works just fine sat signals are where they should be, rain fade is 99% non existent, same with snow fade...
Ross
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THIS DISH IS VERY HARD TO PEAK!!! The mast MUST be plumb, I strongly recommend using struts (The cantilever for the LNB can pull the bolt out) If the original mast is solid (2 bolt of the 6 in X) the old mast will work. The dish is +- 1/2 degree( the old 500 +- 3 degrees) if you plan on using a receiver to acquire the signal it will take a lot of time and if the mast is not plumb you may never get the signal. I do not recommend doing this as a U-install unless you have a meter (min sat buddy better if it is a super sat buddy).
There are many different ways to peak the 1000.4 sat dish. The azimuth cam is one and so is the elevation rod as well as the regular pointing the dish in the right direction. With the regular 1000.2 sat dish , it is just point it and peak and lock it down. It took me quite some time to get the maximum peak on 72.7 & 77 sat and keep the 61.5 high as well. But it is well peaked now and I get great signals on all 3 sats for my area and I lose the lock only when it rains cats and dogs. Don't have to deal with snow fade in southeast Texas. I also don't use any struts on my install , that I did myself. I have kept good signals since 2008 when I re-installed it after Hurricane Ike.
It gets really windy here at times, so I was told that we should use the thicker mast if we're not going to use struts.
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