Dish 1000.4 Eastern Arc Setup Help

[MikeD-C05]

Look the instructions to install a dish 1000.4 sat dish are in this thread.

www.satelliteguys.us/dish-network-forum/145238-eastern-arc-dish-info-install-guide.html


It will tell you step by step on how to install it. I used a simple sat meter that cost $19.99 at the dishstore.net. It was simple to find 72.7 if you follow the instructions line by line , step by step.

The problems come when you try to get the sweet spot for all 3 sats using the azimuth cam. That took a lot of adjustments till I got it right. I had to look at the screen to see the strength of all 3 sats when I adjusted it to make sure I peaked it the best and then locked it down. But once I got that locked and the elevation rod adjusted, I got great strengths on all 3 sats with all transponders getting the following strengths:

77 sat - low 50 - high 58
72.7 sat - low 60 - high 70
61.5 sat - low 45 - high 70

 

[mike123abc]

The foil is used to kill signal to an LNB so that you are sure you are not seeing the wrong LNB. Essentially Op is putting foil over the 2 outside LNBs and trying to find 72.7 with the middle one. That way when the foil is removed from the outside 2 they should be pointed at the correct satellites.

This might help with degree and angle pointing, but even if you get perfect signal from 72.7 you still will have to have the right skew to get 61.5 and 77.

 

[winman97]

I have tried port 1 (77) and port two (72.7). When 61.5 shows I have very slowly tried rotating dish to see if I can get other satellite without sucess. Currently have about 5 hours with this dish and at a loss for what's wrong. Dish Depot said it was very unlikely LNB was bad. I am also using TP 19 or 21 to find 72.7.

I seem to have better luck finding sat 72 using tp 32; once found, I change sat to 61.5 and leaving tp on 32 to verify position, then tweak settings from there.

 

[TheForce]

According to the Dish Tech manual on page 6, it clearly states that each of the three left ports output all three LNB signals simultaneously. Connecting to port 2 to get just 72.7 is not possible. So, the technician tip and trick is to shut down the 77 and 61.5 LNB's ( foil trick)in order to isolate only one sat signal. In other words, you can't just connect a meter to port 2 and think you can get only 72.7 when NOT connected to a DPP44 This is the way the 1000.4 works ( according to the Dish Tech manual)

Additionally, the ports 1 (77); 2 ( 72.7), and 3(61.5) operate as isolated sat signal outputs only when connected to a DPP44 switch. Connecting the switch CHANGES the way the DPP 1000.4 LNB outputs. All this is contained in the DishNetwork Technical manual for DPP systems.


Mike- you have reported some of the best signals I have seen anywhere in the country on a 1000.4. Congratulations! My problem was with TP32 on 61.5. That was my main reason to move to the bigger wing dish.




Additionally, in all configurations the port 1 has to be connected, whether to the external switch DPP44 or to a VIP receiver. In no case can only Port 2 or Port 3 with Port 1 open be used.

After making some phone calls with very experienced techs, its the general consensus that after the check switch is run on an LNB, its a royal pain in the ass to try and repeak it. The check switch actually actives the LNB and it works completely different from that time on. As such, you may very well have bad luck trying to peak in the 1k4 with a reciever powered meter such as yours. You might have a little more luck if you clear out the orbitals in the check switch, but i personally would not try peaking that lnb in. i would call another tech and use their meter. If you can get a hold of a battery powered analog meter like the Channel master you should have more luck. like i said, that is my backup. Peaking out is still a pain though.

So, if you get a self powered meter, tune in on the 3rd port and still cant get them all in its something else. It could be a bent reflector, no line of site, bad LNB (very rare from my experience) . It might just be easier to run across a tech in your neighborhood, pay em 20 or 30 bucks to peak it in and be done with it

Resetting the system is not difficult. The memory is in the receiver. You simply disconnect the entire dish sat cable and run a check switch and get "no connection" on everything. Then reconnect the cable and run check switch a second time. Others have stated this repeatedly plus it is written in the installation manual. Nowhere is it recommended that once an LNB is "activated" you will have trouble repeaking and to just call another tech with a different meter. If you follow the procedure to clear the check switch memory, it is no problem at all. The foil trick simply aids in the isolation of the sat/lnb alignment by eliminating the other LNB's from responding during adjustment using the analog meter. It is an excellent low tech method that will make use of simple analog meters much easier. In my case I left an aluminum cover permanently ( coke can cut in half fits perfectly) over the 61.5LNB to enable the LNB IN port on a 30" 61.5 wing dish for stronger signals.



Edit- Note- I was doing some more research on this mystery of port output and why there seems to be so much confusion among professionals and amateurs (me). Here is what I discovered- When using a Sat Buddy or the Bird Dog digital meters, the LNB assembly switches to DPP44 mode ( even though no DPP44 is used) for tuning ( single output on each of three ports). Once the digital meter is disconnected and the LNB connected to a VIP receiver, it returns to default mode which is the simultaneous output on all three ports. Using an analog meter with receiver supplying power to port 1 keeps the LNB assembly in the default mode. Now all this makes sense. Guys- when a proferssional instal;ler says he connected his professional ( read expensive ) meter to port 2 for 72.7, he gets that 72.7 signal but if you connect your cheapie $19.95 meter with the receiver connected, you will get all three sats on each of the three ports. Simple!

 

[src1983]

I have tried port 1 (77) and port two (72.7). When 61.5 shows I have very slowly tried rotating dish to see if I can get other satellite without sucess. Currently have about 5 hours with this dish and at a loss for what's wrong. Dish Depot said it was very unlikely LNB was bad. I am also using TP 19 or 21 to find 72.7.

With the EA its the elevation which is vital to get in 77 and 72. My personal advice would be to adjust the dish until you're getting 61.5 showing on the third port on the check switch screen (personally I'd peak 61.5 on transponder 14). Then adjust your elevation slightly - it makes one hell of a difference in signal strength. Also I normally peak 72.7 on transponder 17.

 

[rglore]

According to the Dish Tech manual on page 6, it clearly states that each of the three left ports output all three LNB signals simultaneously. Connecting to port 2 to get just 72.7 is not possible.

I think you are reading this wrong. First, it is just not possible to to output 3 LNB's signals simultaneously on one port. The 1K.4 LNB uses DiSEqC 2.0 commands to switch LNBs and polarity bands to a particular output port. I connected my receiver to port 2 and peaked my 1K.4 just fine on 72.7. Any port can power the LNB.

Using a DPP44 or a simple meter or a receiver without a switch matrix (checkswitch run with no connection) will not send any switching commands to the LNB's port. The LNB's port then defaults to DishPro mode with a particular LNB assigned per port, 1=77, 2=72.7, 3=61.6.

Once checkswitch is run, DPP DiSEqC mode is enabled on that port and any LNB and polarity can be commanded to a particular hi/lo band and output port. Special case; a connected legacy receiver can put port 2 and/or 3 in SW64 compatibility mode if a DishPro receiver is connected to port 1 for power.

 

[bbomar]

I think you are reading this wrong. First, it is just not possible to to output 3 LNB's signals simultaneously on one port. The 1K.4 LNB uses DiSEqC 2.0 commands to switch LNBs and polarity bands to a particular output port. I connected my receiver to port 2 and peaked my 1K.4 just fine on 72.7. Any port can power the LNB.

My observations during my 1K4 install confirm this. I powered from port 3 during the install (port 3 directly connected to a VIP622). First I ran a check switch with nothing connected - then with port 3 connected. The 1K4 switch seems to default to the 77-degree LNB in this case. I could see all 3 satellites one at a time as I rotated the dish, but always on the 77-degree LNB, confirmed with aluminum foil. So, I turned the dish until I got the 77-degree satellite, peaked, ran check switch, and all 3 satellites appeared each on the correct LNB. I then used the receiver to select TP19 on 72.7 and did my final tweaks there. All signal levels were then good, 40 to 70.

One thing strange - my elevation wound up at 36 degrees rather than the predicted 46 degrees in southern middle Tennessee, even with a perfectly vertical pole. Any ideas why? I never adjusted skew and azimuth was as predicted.

A final note - 61.5 TP32 that caused Don Landis so much trouble bit the dust on May 3 and its channels moved to TP10.

 

[MikeD-C05]

I don't think that the elevation levels on DISH installs are always right. I installed a 1000.2 sat dish in Arkansas for my aunt in 71945 zipcode. The install manual said 41 elevation for that zip ,but the actual elevation I used to get all 3 sats was 45. So I think they are generic elevation levels and if you use a meter to peak it on not only direction but on elevation as well , you will get the best signal for your area. The one thing they say not to change is the skew and I find it is usually right for the dish you are trying to install, no matter what kind you are installing. I have an eastern arc 1000.4 sat dish at home and an older dish 1000 for an sd 501 in the back bedroom.

 

[quickh2]

Hi All

I read through this thread about setup problems with Dish 1000.4 Eastern Arc.

I'm getting the exact same results mpdclark noted.

Was the problem resolved ? I'm suspecting bad LNBF .. I can not tune in 72.7 or 77.0 .. only 61.5

Thanks for any thoughts.

GWood

 

[mikethedishguy]

the 1k4 dish is the most difficult dish I have ever installed in 10 yrs in the business. If you can find some one with experence pay them best thing you will do.

 

[MikeD-C05]

IF you follow the instructions,there is a azimuth cam that has to be adjusted a little to the left or to the right, to get maximum signal on both 72.7 and 77 sats. If you aim at 72.7 like they tell you to get a signal, then do the azimuth cam adjustment to get maximum signal on both 72.7 and 77 , you should get 61.5 as well. There is also the elevation rod that you can also adjust to get maximum signal on everything. Remember to peak it on 72.7 on transponder 19 or 21. I installed mine back in 2008 and again after Hurricane Ike( had to) and I get good signals on all three sats. But it took me a lot of time and trial and error to get everything at maximum signals.

77 - 40 -58 ( the weakest satellite and I don't even need it because my hd locals are on 61.5)
72.7 - 60 - 70
61.5 - 45- 70

 

[quickh2]

Thanks Mike,

I tried to do proper research before purchase. When I signed up for Dish at home they brought out a "Turbo HD" setup and pointed it to eastern arc.. (Atlanta Area).

I bought an RV and pulled the ViP211K that was feeding my garage/workshop. Then purchased what I thought would be the same dish setup as home. (1000.4 EA).

I did a test with the RV setup at home and dailed in all the birds 61.5, 72.7, and 77 without much difficulty. Now I'm down in the Orlando, FL area and can only hit 61.5..

I've triple-checked everything, tweeked all directions, run check switch unconnected to clear receiver, and 61.5 is all I can see here.

Sooooo, assuming I don't want HD in the RV which Dish setup should I go with that will be the simplest to setup while traveling ? I'm mostly in GA, FL, AL, TN, SC, NC.

Not interestd in dropping the coin for a tailgater or something like that.

GWood

 

[tholius]

I finally set up my 1000.4 using only the receiver. Here's how.

The foil is used to kill signal to an LNB so that you are sure you are not seeing the wrong LNB. Essentially Op is putting foil over the 2 outside LNBs and trying to find 72.7 with the middle one. That way when the foil is removed from the outside 2 they should be pointed at the correct satellites.

This might help with degree and angle pointing, but even if you get perfect signal from 72.7 you still will have to have the right skew to get 61.5 and 77.

First, my receiver would ONLY listen to the 1st LNB while peaking. (77). And, on that LNB moving the dish, I could find 72.7, 61, and 83. But not 77.

I tried putting foil over it and peaking the other LNBs, but the receiver had no signal except from 77. So ... I peaked 72 and marked a spot on the mast; then I peaked 83 (yeah, I know) and marked that spot. Then I carefully set the dish between the two (72.7+83.1)/2 = 77.9 so it is really close...

and went back to the receiver and messed with it for about 10 minutes until it "found" 77. Then I peaked 77 and all 3 came in on switch test and life is good. FYI I had a professional installer (who also did not have a peaking meter and told me they were unnecessary) tell me (a) the LNB was bad; (b) the dish was the wrong one (but he was willing to try to _bend_ it for me); (c) the receiver would ONLY get 77 on the 77 lnb so if you get one you've got them all; and (d) the new receiver was no good and I didn't need HD anyway. Oh, and if the guide takes more than like 30 seconds to download the installation is no good. Also if the signal strength isn't at least 90 on all 3 it is no good.

Note the installer was from the tri-lakes area in the adirondacks and ... well ... let's just say the two different ones I spoke with were pretty much clueless on how the systems work. Both were convinced that the connection between the dish and the satellite was bi-directional (how else would it know to download the program guide?) sigh.....

 

[ohio_caps]

First, my receiver would ONLY listen to the 1st LNB while peaking. (77). And, on that LNB moving the dish, I could find 72.7, 61, and 83. But not 77.

I tried putting foil over it and peaking the other LNBs, but the receiver had no signal except from 77. So ... I peaked 72 and marked a spot on the mast; then I peaked 83 (yeah, I know) and marked that spot. Then I carefully set the dish between the two (72.7+83.1)/2 = 77.9 so it is really close...

and went back to the receiver and messed with it for about 10 minutes until it "found" 77. Then I peaked 77 and all 3 came in on switch test and life is good. FYI I had a professional installer (who also did not have a peaking meter and told me they were unnecessary) tell me (a) the LNB was bad; (b) theN dish was the wrong one (but he was willing to try to _bend_ it for me); (c) the receiver would ONLY get 77 on the 77 lnb so if you get one you've got them all; and (d) the new receiver was no good and I didn't need HD anyway. Oh, and if the guide takes more than like 30 seconds to download the installation is no good. Also if the signal strength isn't at least 90 on all 3 it is no good.

Note the installer was from the tri-lakes area in the adirondacks and ... well ... let's just say the two different ones I spoke with were pretty much clueless on how the systems work. Both were convinced that the connection between the dish and the satellite was bi-directional (how else would it know to download the program guide?) sigh.....

I installed my 1000.4 last week and it was a bear. I found another thread the mentioned peaking 77 first and this did it for me. I foil covered the other 2 lnb and peaked 77. I removed foil and ran a check switch. The check switch found all three sats. I then fine tuned..

 

[whatchel1]

First, my receiver would ONLY listen to the 1st LNB while peaking. (77). And, on that LNB moving the dish, I could find 72.7, 61, and 83. But not 77.

I tried putting foil over it and peaking the other LNBs, but the receiver had no signal except from 77. So ... I peaked 72 and marked a spot on the mast; then I peaked 83 (yeah, I know) and marked that spot. Then I carefully set the dish between the two (72.7+83.1)/2 = 77.9 so it is really close...

and went back to the receiver and messed with it for about 10 minutes until it "found" 77. Then I peaked 77 and all 3 came in on switch test and life is good. FYI I had a professional installer (who also did not have a peaking meter and told me they were unnecessary) tell me (a) the LNB was bad; (b) the dish was the wrong one (but he was willing to try to _bend_ it for me); (c) the receiver would ONLY get 77 on the 77 lnb so if you get one you've got them all; and (d) the new receiver was no good and I didn't need HD anyway. Oh, and if the guide takes more than like 30 seconds to download the installation is no good. Also if the signal strength isn't at least 90 on all 3 it is no good.

Note the installer was from the tri-lakes area in the adirondacks and ... well ... let's just say the two different ones I spoke with were pretty much clueless on how the systems work. Both were convinced that the connection between the dish and the satellite was bi-directional (how else would it know to download the program guide?) sigh.....

Almost sounds like you have WA.4 LNB set up on the dish.

 

[hdflsts2002]

According to the Dish Tech manual on page 6, it clearly states that each of the three left ports output all three LNB signals simultaneously. Connecting to port 2 to get just 72.7 is not possible. So, the technician tip and trick is to shut down the 77 and 61.5 LNB's ( foil trick)in order to isolate only one sat signal. In other words, you can't just connect a meter to port 2 and think you can get only 72.7 when NOT connected to a DPP44 This is the way the 1000.4 works ( according to the Dish Tech manual)

Additionally, the ports 1 (77); 2 ( 72.7), and 3(61.5) operate as isolated sat signal outputs only when connected to a DPP44 switch. Connecting the switch CHANGES the way the DPP 1000.4 LNB outputs. All this is contained in the DishNetwork Technical manual for DPP systems.


Mike- you have reported some of the best signals I have seen anywhere in the country on a 1000.4. Congratulations! My problem was with TP32 on 61.5. That was my main reason to move to the bigger wing dish.




Additionally, in all configurations the port 1 has to be connected, whether to the external switch DPP44 or to a VIP receiver. In no case can only Port 2 or Port 3 with Port 1 open be used.




Resetting the system is not difficult. The memory is in the receiver. You simply disconnect the entire dish sat cable and run a check switch and get "no connection" on everything. Then reconnect the cable and run check switch a second time. Others have stated this repeatedly plus it is written in the installation manual. Nowhere is it recommended that once an LNB is "activated" you will have trouble repeaking and to just call another tech with a different meter. If you follow the procedure to clear the check switch memory, it is no problem at all. The foil trick simply aids in the isolation of the sat/lnb alignment by eliminating the other LNB's from responding during adjustment using the analog meter. It is an excellent low tech method that will make use of simple analog meters much easier. In my case I left an aluminum cover permanently ( coke can cut in half fits perfectly) over the 61.5LNB to enable the LNB IN port on a 30" 61.5 wing dish for stronger signals.



Edit- Note- I was doing some more research on this mystery of port output and why there seems to be so much confusion among professionals and amateurs (me). Here is what I discovered- When using a Sat Buddy or the Bird Dog digital meters, the LNB assembly switches to DPP44 mode ( even though no DPP44 is used) for tuning ( single output on each of three ports). Once the digital meter is disconnected and the LNB connected to a VIP receiver, it returns to default mode which is the simultaneous output on all three ports. Using an analog meter with receiver supplying power to port 1 keeps the LNB assembly in the default mode. Now all this makes sense. Guys- when a proferssional instal;ler says he connected his professional ( read expensive ) meter to port 2 for 72.7, he gets that 72.7 signal but if you connect your cheapie $19.95 meter with the receiver connected, you will get all three sats on each of the three ports. Simple!

Don, pretty much everything you say above is valid and good advice. This however "When using a Sat Buddy or the Bird Dog digital meters, the LNB assembly switches to DPP44 mode ( even though no DPP44 is used) for tuning ( single output on each of three ports)." Is not accurate. When I hook up either my SatBuddy or Birdog I can connect to any port and see all three eyes. I can switch through them without ever having to move a cable between ports. The meters send the signals to the switch telling it which bird you care to look at. Pretty much the meters act as a receiver in this respect.

 

[hdflsts2002]

Thanks Mike,

I tried to do proper research before purchase. When I signed up for Dish at home they brought out a "Turbo HD" setup and pointed it to eastern arc.. (Atlanta Area).

I bought an RV and pulled the ViP211K that was feeding my garage/workshop. Then purchased what I thought would be the same dish setup as home. (1000.4 EA).

I did a test with the RV setup at home and dailed in all the birds 61.5, 72.7, and 77 without much difficulty. Now I'm down in the Orlando, FL area and can only hit 61.5..

I've triple-checked everything, tweeked all directions, run check switch unconnected to clear receiver, and 61.5 is all I can see here.

Sooooo, assuming I don't want HD in the RV which Dish setup should I go with that will be the simplest to setup while traveling ? I'm mostly in GA, FL, AL, TN, SC, NC.

Not interestd in dropping the coin for a tailgater or something like that.

GWood

The dish you have should work fine for you or you could go with the newer 1000.2. I personally use the 1000.4 in my RV setup and carry both EA and WA LNBs. This way even if there is not LOS on the most appropriate LNB for my location I still have a second shot at LOS. The best advice I can give you is to get yourself a decent meter if you're going to be breaking down and setting up more than a couple times a year. First Strike FS1 is a decent entry meter that will allow you to control the LNB and pick the eye you want to work with. You can also pickup a Birdog at a reasonable price if you keep your eyes open on EBAY, SATBuddy is far and away the best but unless you are doing this for a living, moving around quite frequently or are just an uber geek is probably over kill for you. I can't stress enough how much easier a GOOD meter will make your install. From the time I start till I'm back inside watching TV I can typically have my 1000.4k running in 30 minutes or less and most of that time is verifying LOS getting the tripod plumb and doing the initial azimuth, elevation and skew settings prior to hooking up the meter.

 

[Dave Bee]

Hi, I am having a similar issue, I have a 1000.4 EA dish and lnbf that was working fine for Hopper and Joey. 2 daughters moved back in and I decided to connect their receivers, a VIP 211k and a VIP 722K DVR. after much research I found the proper hookup should be Dish to DPP44 to DPP44. with out to receiver ports on one switch going to duo node, and receiver ports on second switch going to the VIP receivers. I set this up in my attic got everything wired and first Hopper and joey worked but VIPs could not get all the satellites, after 2 days of playing around I got everything working by covering the 77 horn with foil. Decided to clean up the tangled mess in the attic and lost everything on all boxes! went back to step 1 testing every connection with my super buddy 29. With 77 horn still covered I am getting both 72.2 on port 1 and 61.5 on port 2 of both daisy chained switches but now every receiver is giving me message less satellites detected on switch test. the hopper now says no signals at all, the 722 says in details that 72.2 + and - on port 2 and 61.5 + and - on port 3, but when trying to watch tv every channel says no signal. The 211 says it's getting only 72.2 + and - but also says no complete signal loss on all channels. Any idea what's up? PS I have like twenty years of experience with DTV installs and trouble shooting but when I got fired for tearing out my rotator cuff on a job they wouldn't let me reschedule I decided to go to dish.

 

[the mack]

According to the Dish Tech manual on page 6, it clearly states that each of the three left ports output all three LNB signals simultaneously. Connecting to port 2 to get just 72.7 is not possible.

You are reading that wrong, port 2 will only output 72.7 when connected to a dish receiver with a cleared switch matrix.
a receiver with a cleared switch matrix can be used to align dish to 72.7 when connected to port 2 of the receiver. Period.
a whole lot of misinformation in this thread confusing the op. download the 1000.4 manual and follow it to the letter......it works.... f the foil trick as it is not needed. you will need a lot of patience as the vip receivers a VERY slow to react to a signal.

When I align my 1000.4 I connect cheap meter to port one and receiver with cleared matrix to port 2. when I get a reading on cheap meter I check receiver for the 72.7 signal. if you settings are correct everything should fall into place provided there are no obstructions and lnb is in god working order

 

[Troch77]

To Dave B

If you have a Superbuddy 29 you shouldn't need to cover any LNBS with foil.

Just make sure you have the updated software on the meter, and pick the proper dish setup.

It also doesn't matter what Input on the LNB you connect to if it's a Dish pro Plus LNB.
It only matters when hooking up the DPP44 and only if you are using less then 3 orbital locations.
If it's Western arc it doesn't matter.
If it's an Eastern arc 2 then port 2 on the LNB is for 72 and Port 3 is 61.5
The 77 isn't used in 99% of the country anymore..
But since you have a 1.4k, all 3 lines should be used to avoid confusion.
And you don't peak the 77 either.
You peak the 72, and then ajust accordingly for the 61.5.


And also to add you can't add a VIP 722 to a Hopper account.
You can add two 211's and that it.

And you don't need a duo node with a single Hopper.
You need one Solo node, and 1 DPP44 .

You should have 3 lines from the 1.4k to the DPP44 , the 2 lines to the solo node, or in your case I guess the duo. Not 3 unless you have 2 Hoppers.
Obviously your Joeys is connected either a tap or on the client port on the node.
That leaves you 2 ports left
One would go to your 211 with the PI, the other would go to the other 211.
And I say 211 because dish doesn't Active VIP DVRs on hopper accounts.

Not sure why you have 2 DPP44s.
And if for some reason you do have a 722, one line with a Separator at the back of the 722 is all that's needed.

Bottom line a Single Hopper ,Joey,and 2 Vips would only require 1 DPP44.
If you had 2 Hoppers then you would need another DPP44.
Because your Node would require 3 wires from the multiswitch.



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