Dish 1000.2 with DPP44

[SatinKzo]

I'm setup my D1000.2 last night in anticipation of signing back up with dish in a month or 2.

I still have a 301 receiver that I was using for pointing and setup testing and I am not sure if I have a problem with my 301, D1000 LNB, or DPP44 switch.

here is the orignal setup

D1000 --> DPP44 (119, 110, 129 on ports 1,2,3) --> 301.

Do check switch and all looks good.

However, when checking signal strength, I never get a signal on the Odd transponders on any of the 3 sats. Evens all come in nice and strong.

So I try just wiring directly to LNB and all is fine. So I figured I had a bad DPP44. Since I was using my old DPP44 and a new one came with my D1000.2 purchase I decided to swap out the switch.

Swapping out the switch produced the same problem as before, no odd TP's on any of the sats.

Anyone ever run into this? Since I am only planning a couple DVR's and the 301 when I go back to dish, I am good with just the 3 outputs from the LNB, but now I am curious what is going on with the DPP44?

Also, the 301 is updated to current software and it used to work fine with my D500 hooked into the DPP44 when I last had dish.

 

[RandallA]

Just a few things that I'm pretty sure you already know but want to confirm.

Did you try clearing the switch matrix?
Are the stingers on the cables coming from the LNB a little longer?
Power inserter on port 1, right?

Other than that, it should work unless you have a bad switch.

 

[SatinKzo]

Yeah Randall, I cleared the matrix and the inserter is on output 1. I re-checked my coax and everything seems right.

All I am doing when I by-pass the DPP44 is using a barrell connector

I guess I should update my config description a bit to accurately show everything

Dish 1000 LNB --> Ground Block --> DPP44 --> Wall plate connector --> STB
The above config does not get odd TP's, even if I try a different DPP44 and use a different inserter. I even tried using a different output on the DPP44 instead of the inserter output to make sure

The config that works is
Dish 1000 LNB --> Ground Block --> Barrel connector --> Wall plate connector --> STB

 

[RandallA]

Weird. I know there is a problem with the 311s not getting the even tps but haven't heard anything on the 301s not getting the odds.

http://www.satelliteguys.us/dish-ne...ignal-display-issues-w-dp-twin-quad-lnbf.html

Do you have another receiver that you can try? I know you'll be OK with 3 outputs but I also know that you bought that DPP44 switch and would like to know if it works.

The reason why I mentioned the long stingers is that on the DPP44 they need to be longer on the SAT IN side.

 

[happy]

you dont need 44 swich with 1000.2 lnb , just run cables directly from lnb to to 301 you wont have any problem

 

[SatinKzo]

happy, like randall and I stated, I know I don't need the 44 and I will be ok without it with the config I want, I am more curious on what is going on. As it stands now, when I get re-subbed to dish, I'm going to just go from LNB to STB since this issue has crept up.

Just to update, I put my D500 back outside and hooked it to the DPP44 and all TP's come in fine on the 301. I also took my (now spare with the D1000.2) 61.5 dish and pointed it at 129 and hooked it into port 3 while my orignal d500 was on port 1 and 2 and everything works as it should.

Also, I have tested all 3 feeds coming from the D1000.2 lnb and all of them work fine when connected directly to the 301.

So what is odd is the D1000.2 into the DPP44 won't work, but all components work fine by themselves. Even the spare Dpp44 I got works fine in the configs outside of the D1000.2 lnb

Randall, I'm gonna check the stingers and re-do them a bit longer and see if it helps like yous stated. I always trim mine to just slightly longer than the connector. I'll report back later today after I get my errands taken care of and have some time to test.
Edit: no, I currently do not have any other receivers to test.

 

[SmityWhity]

I always trim mine to just slightly longer than the connector.

It looks like you found your problem (thinking positive ).

If you don't have time to make them stringers longer and have a small (or long) piece of cable with longer stringers laying around, connect it to the DPP44 and then the current cable using the barrel connector you have. It will only take a couple of minutes to see if you are getting both polarities on that LNBF/Sat.

NOTE:
You know that you don't need the DPP44 unless you want more than 3 receivers, and I agree that you should figure out if your DPP44's are bad or not. However, I checked to make sure, and the Dish 1000.2 LNBF is compatible with (and only with) the DPP44 switch.
Like the DPP Twin, the 1000.2 LNBF defaults to Port-1 = 119 and Port-2 = 110, therefore, Port-3 = 129. So for ease in setting up and trouble shooting, it is recommended Port 1 to Port 1, Port 2 to Port 2, and Port 3 to Port 3 of the 1000.2 LNBF & DPP44.

 

[RandallA]

"If you don't have time to make them stringers longer and have a small (or long) piece of cable with longer stringers laying around, connect it to the DPP44 and then the current cable using the barrel connector you have. It will only take a couple of minutes to see if you are getting both polarities on that LNBF/Sat."

SmityWhity is in the house. Good thinking Smity!

 

[SatinKzo]

Hey, thanks for the suggestions guys. I checked all my cables and the 129 jumper cable between the ground block and the DPP44 seemed to be the culprit.

I swear I swapped it earlier, but apparently not. Anyways, in checking the cables per your guys suggestions, I noticed that cable was actually recessed into the connector a bit and eventhough it worked on the barrell connector it won't work on the DPP44.

of course now it brings up the question:
Why did it cause all the sats to drop the odd TP's and not just 129. ?

Anyways, thanks again guys, just needed someone outside the setup to help me not overlook anything.

 

[RandallA]

Glad you got it working.

"Why did it cause all the sats to drop the odd TP's and not just 129. ? "

This question will go as one of those unsolved misteries.

 

[Tyralak]

Dish 1000 LNB --> Ground Block --> DPP44 --> Wall plate connector --> STB

This may be your problem right here. Connecting a 1000.2 LNBF into a DPP44 switch is not recommended. I've seen this configuration exactly 4 times. Each time the customer was having all kinds of random problems and gremlins that could never be traced down. In those cases, the problem was fixed by replacing the 1000.2 Triple with a W bracket and 3 Duals. When it comes to DP and DPP, cascading switches is asking for trouble.

 

[SatinKzo]

Interesting since they claim it's fine. matter of fact the DPP44 is the ONLY switch that will work with the 1000.2 LNB (which is actually a 4x3 switch IIRC)

I was also figuring at the worst I'd go with the W and the DP duals if I really wanted to use the switch.

As for DP and DPP cascading, this is the first I've ever had a problem (I'm not an installer, but I've helped numerous people get setup and played with all sorts of stuff in my house).

It's working fine now that I found the one jumper cable causing the problem. It was just such an weird problem losing only odds and losing them on all sats that had me perplexed.

 

[Tyralak]

Interesting since they claim it's fine. matter of fact the DPP44 is the ONLY switch that will work with the 1000.2 LNB (which is actually a 4x3 switch IIRC)

I was also figuring at the worst I'd go with the W and the DP duals if I really wanted to use the switch.

As for DP and DPP cascading, this is the first I've ever had a problem (I'm not an installer, but I've helped numerous people get setup and played with all sorts of stuff in my house).

It's working fine now that I found the one jumper cable causing the problem. It was just such an weird problem losing only odds and losing them on all sats that had me perplexed.

I know. They claim that a lot of configurations will work, but as touchy as Dish equipment is these days, it never really works as advertised. For example, a DPP twin into a DPP44 switch is supposed to work too, but it's really flaky. Causes a lot of twins to go bad. It's pretty much policy at DNS to never cascade switches if you can help it. Duals are to be used with any switches instead of twins. Although, DP21 switches are designed to work with DP Twins and duals, and works flawlessly. Legacy works fine too, because it functions differently. The ports permanently lock voltage in the integrated LNBF and feed to the switch.

Anyway, I'd at least try a W bracket and duals. It might solve your problem.

 

[RandallA]

I have a 1000.2 going into a DPP44 and have not had any problems with it. Actually I had it going to a DP34 also with no problems.

 

[SmityWhity]

I have a 1000.2 going into a DPP44 and have not had any problems with it. Actually I had it going to a DP34 also with no problems.

Before I read your post, I had started thinking (oh God!) that the 1000.2 would probably also work with the DP34; just like the DPP Twin works with the DP34 when certain parameters are met, such as power from a receiver or power inserter. (But there are plenty of threads on using DPP44 power inserters or not; and if the DP34 will work with a DPP Twin.)

I also agree that if I had 3 DP Dual's and the right bracket laying around, I would swap the LNBF cluster out (to use with a DPP44 Switch); but I wouldn't go buy any just for that reason.

Back to SatinKzo's issue....

I have some "RG-6 Quad Shield" cable that if you are not careful, the center conductor can be pushed or pulled through smaller runs of cut cable. It's been awhile since I have made up any cables, but I'm thinking I seen this on cables as long as 3 or 4 ft; such as those between the LNBF and Switch or Grounding Block and Switch.

Maybe the stringer moved and did not make connection with the DPP44, and then later made connection.

Otherwise, we'll just have to call it "Unsolved Mystery" or "Operator Error".
I feel strongly both ways.

Glad its working.

EDIT: Also, it is possible the switch matrix did not clear during some of the changes/tests.

 

[Tyralak]

just like the DPP Twin works with the DP34 when certain parameters are met, such as power from a receiver or power inserter.

The information from Dish states unequivically that DPP twins are NOT compatible with DP34 switches. I've seen the configuration several times, and it destroys the 34 switch. It's such a big deal, that if you used that configuration on a job (DNS I'm talking about here), and you got QASed, you would fail the job. No ifs ands or buts. Using a DP twin and a 34 or 44 switch wouldn't fail you, but a DPP Twin and a 34 switch is a really big no-no. And I'm sure I'm going to get the usual few people here who will say "I'm using a DPP twin/34 switch and it's working" Just like using RG-59 with DPP, it works for a while, sometimes for a long time, but it eventually gives out.

 

[RandallA]

The information from Dish states unequivically that DPP twins are NOT compatible with DP34 switches. I've seen the configuration several times, and it destroys the 34 switch. It's such a big deal, that if you used that configuration on a job (DNS I'm talking about here), and you got QASed, you would fail the job. No ifs ands or buts. Using a DP twin and a 34 or 44 switch wouldn't fail you, but a DPP Twin and a 34 switch is a really big no-no. And I'm sure I'm going to get the usual few people here who will say "I'm using a DPP twin/34 switch and it's working" Just like using RG-59 with DPP, it works for a while, sometimes for a long time, but it eventually gives out.

Fair enough.

 

[SmityWhity]

(But there are plenty of threads on using DPP44 power inserters or not; and if the DP34 will work with a DPP Twin.)

(1) The Dish "Quick Facts - DISH Pro Plus Twin LNBF" Revised 8/23/2004, states the DPP Twin is compatible with DP34 provided you provide sufficient power to the DPP Twin and the DP34; by using a minimum of 2 constantly powered receivers, or a DP Plus 44 Switch Power Inserter must be used on any DP34 port.

(2) However, here's a quote from a Dish website Revised 1/12/2007:
Tech Portal : (choose receiver model) : Equipment : DISH Pro Home Page Then click on DP Plus Twin LNBF at bottom left of page.
"The DP Plus Twin can not be used with the DP34, DP21 or any Legacy LNBFs or switches."

With the power requirements of (1) above, I would say you are asking for trouble doing such an installation for a customer, and wouldn't recommend it.