DiSEqC Dilemma

[Debbi]

I have my new MicroHD all hooked up and updated. It works great on my C-Band dish, it works great on my Ku-Band dish.

I have a 4 way DiSEqC switch (DiSEqC 2.0) I got from Sadoun a few years back. When I run through the switch I don't get any signal at all. I have tried all the ports and selected the different ports in the receiver menu to no avail. It seems that the switch is so simple I just can't imagine why I can't get it to work. Both of the coax from the dishes run into the house and I'm putting the switch in the house and then running to the receiver with a jumper coax. I would appreciate any suggestions - thanks and Happy New Year.

 

[Pixl]

A 4 way switch would most likely be diseqc 1.0 . Check that your are selecting your port commands from the 1.0 menu, not 1.1 0r 1.2 .

 

[Debbi]

I tried it again - no signal through the switch. I checked the switch again and it says "DiSEq 2.0" S-DS41C on the front, all the information is on a Sadoun label. I'm really stumped as far as what I'm doing wrong.

 

[primestar31]

Maybe it's just a bad switch. They are easy to blow out, if you hook coax's to them while they are powered up. That's the kiss of death to a DisEqc switch.

 

[AcWxRadar]

Hi Debbi,

Have you verified that your dishes are properly aligned (without the switch)? I.E. if you hardwire around the switch can you get the signal just fine? I am hoping that you have already verified that.

Are you connecting the receiver LNB IN port to the middle port of this switch, where it says "OUT"? And the other switch ports (LNB1, LNB2, LNB3 and LNB4) to the various LNBF's that you have out on the dishes in the field? You have verified this as well, I hope.

Then let's look into your menu selections / setup within the set top box. Which satellite is connected to which input? Make sure that when you go into the satellite setup menu for each satellite that it is MAPPED to go through the same switch port number that it is physically wired to out in the field. If you have the dish for Galaxy 19 @ 97.0°W hardwired to port #1 of the DiSEqC switch, then your receiver menu for the setup of Galaxy 19 @ 97.0°W needs to show that it is mapped to port 1 of a DiSEqC switch and so on and so forth.

Now, if you have confirmed all of this and are with me so far, there are some other things to check and verify. Ensure that you have your receiver menu (for the switch parameters of each satellite) to be set to DiSEqC 1.0 and there is nothing showing UNCOMMITTED. If you see UNCOMMITTED anywhere, toggle that so that it shows simply COMMITTED or normal or just plain DiSEqC 1.0. It would be rare to use UNCOMMITTED and the switch you have won't be associated with that so ensure that you are not using those features.

This will be a start for you to check and verify. Not sure where to go next, so I will await your reponse on this.

Oh, I will add, and don't be suprised, but sometimes switches can just simply be defunct, dead, kaputz right off the shelf! So, keep this in mind. You may have been setting up everything correctly and the switch is just dead. I have had this happen on several occasions. If you are familiar with ESD practices, I urge you to try to apply them with all switches as a precaution, just to play safe.

RADAR

 

[Debbi]

Thank you so much for all the pointers. I have gone down the list and verified everything. By process of elminiation I think the switch must be bad.
Googling around I see DiSEqC switches anywhere from $3.95 to $39.95.
Any suggestions - is more expensive really better? What parameters do I use to pick a good reliable switch? Thanks again!

 

[Blindowl1234]

Debbi, I've used many of the less expensive ones with good luck. I've blown a few too. Now I keep a couple of extras just in case.

 

[Bongu]

If your cable runs are relatively short, there is little difference between the switches and any 4 port should work fine. If your cable runs are fairly long, the stats become important. Every switch drops the signal level. Better switches usually drop the signal between 2 and 3 db. Some of the manufacturers and resellers claim to have the lowest db loss without actual tests. Older Chieta switches were affordable and only cost between 30 and 40 dollars several year ago. These are the switches I would recommend if you can find one.

Sent from my Timex Sinclair 2K using SatelliteGuys

 

[tede]

Hello Debbi
One last thing before you trow in the towel on your switch,
recheck the settings on the Micro, if you haven't already done it, go to settings, scroll down
to "others" and make sure the LNB power is "ON".
Just an opinion on which switch to buy, i have been very happy
with the EMP Centaury switches over the years, those have been the most reliable for me.

 

[hags]

Best switches I've found by far are the EMP-centauri 4/1. They're warrantied, supported, relatively inexpensive and have an excellent reputation.

In the short time I've been playing with FTA I've blown 3 "generic" switches, one was my fault and the other two blew out while inline and "on".

I put the EMP in service and have not had any issues.

 

[Debbi]

Thanks. I found a EMP-centauri 4/1 at Amazon and I'll order it today. That should solve all my problems, except no reception on Rural TV, but I guess I need a 10' dish, my 8' just won't do it. But at least I can enjoy C-Band and Ku-Band with the new switch. Thanks for sharing all your expertise!

 

[AcWxRadar]

Debbi,

One last note from me. Are you familiar with ESDS / ESD or otherwise an "Electro-Static-Discharge Sensitive" or "Electrostatic Sensitive Device"?

Especially in the winter time with drier air, it is easy to build up a static charge. I am sure that you have been zapped by this at one time or another, especially after walking across a carpeted floor. But, even walking across a linoleum floor can build up a static charge that can wipe out many electronic devices. Some may say that I am being over-cautious, but my personal advice is to play it safe with all electronic components. For the handling of your new switches, try to avoid all static buildup. Simplest way is to open the package the switch comes in atop your kitchen stove. Allow the package to sit on the stove for a few seconds and then place your hands on the metal frame of the stove prior to opening the package to bleed off any excess static charge. Then don't walk across a carpeted floor during or prior to handling the switch or any other component. That should help protect your electronic devices and components.

If you find you are "ZAPPING" door knobs frequently, then by all means, stay clear of all electronic devices until you discharge your static charge!

Please don't be overly fearful of this notion, just try to understand that if you are really "charged up", don't go handling your electronics without a little forethought.

RADAR

 

[Feralkiwi]

Hi Debbi

I to have a DVB-S2 unit that does not switch diseqc. My box and manual say that my unit is diseqc 1.3 which is not a reconised standard.
I have come to Sat Guys because they have updates for the software for a unit with the same software version number.

I'm hoping that will fix the many problems my unit has.

Owen

 

[SatelliteAV]

DiSEqC 1.3 refers to an unofficial designation for USALS motor control. It does not indicate that it is backwards compatible for switch control versions 1.0 or 1.1 or motor control with version 1.2.

 

[Feralkiwi]

Hi Debbi

I too have a DVB-S2 micro HD unit that will not switch diseqc.
The box and the manual say it is diseqc 1.3 which is not an approved standard.
I have seen upgrade soaftware here at Sat Guys that looks to be a replacement for my exixting sotware.
I hope thatwill fix the many problems my unit has.

Owen

 

[SatelliteAV]

Feralkiwi,

Should start a new thread if you have a question or need assistance.

What satellite receiver do you own? There must be some confusion as the GEOSATpro microHD is USALS compliant, not DiSEqC 1.3.