OTHER discrepancy between lyngsat.com and ftalist.com ?

Use lyngsat which is fairly accurate. Ignore circular satellites such as Nimiq, Dish, DirecTV since they all contain scrambled channels and you can't view. Only look for linear satellites for now. The following are the best: 87W, 89W, 91W, 95W, 97W, 99W, 101W, 103W, 113W, 115W, 117W, 121W, 123W, 125W.

Use orbital positions to refer to satellites since the satellite names are changing all the time.

Added: The best lists are the ones you create yourself by blind scanning each satellite.
 
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Use lyngsat which is fairly accurate. Ignore circular satellites such as Nimiq, Dish, DirecTV since they all contain scrambled channels and you can't view. Only look for linear satellites for now. The following are the best: 87W, 89W, 91W, 95W, 97W, 99W, 101W, 103W, 113W, 115W, 117W, 121W, 123W, 125W.

Use orbital positions to refer to satellites since the satellite names are changing all the time.

Added: The best lists are the ones you create yourself by blind scanning each satellite.
Ok, I always wondered why everyone uses the numbers. Makes sense now.
I was researching what 'linear' meant. Is that what the "H" and the "V" are describing in the transponder value? (horizontal and vertical)?
 
I took a closer look at the ftalist. For each Ku satellite I know, it was either incomplete or inaccurate on content in some way. It's a nice website but they need to do a current scan of the arc and update the listings.
 
I just wipe out my TP list every couple of weeks and blind scan my arch from 87 to 125W Both C and Ku every couple of weeks. It wipes out all the old dead channels and loads the new ones.
Interesting. But I read (I thought) somewhere that you need at least 1 active transponder programmed in order to scan. Perhaps I read that wrong. Maybe that was just to get a valid reading for signal strength? If I don't have a transponder, there's no signal strength. That might have been it.
 
Interesting. But I read (I thought) somewhere that you need at least 1 active transponder programmed in order to scan. Perhaps I read that wrong. Maybe that was just to get a valid reading for signal strength? If I don't have a transponder, there's no signal strength. That might have been it.
On some of the older receivers you had to keep one transponder in the list or your satellite list would be corupted (azbox for sure). That isn't always the case any more.

A good strong active transponder will help locate the satellite, but once you have the dish aimed and peaked you should be able to delete transponders and start fresh with most receivers.
 
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My experience with my Edision Mio+ is that a blind scan will always work if the dish is pointed correctly at a satellite. Even if you have no transponders programmed for that satellite.

However, if you attempt a programmed scan (transponders have been entered but never scanned yet), the programmed scan won't work. The receiver does nothing and just sits there when you tell it to do a programmed scan. In that scenario, you MUST do a blind scan first. After a first blind scan is done, then the programmed scan will always work. So it is a good idea to keep at least one previously scanned transponder. Even if that transponder was only a data transponder which couldn't be viewed or heard.
 
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OTHER Multiple LNBs? There can be only 1!

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