Conduit attached to pole mount

[PopcornNMore]

I just installed 3/4" conduit that contains a dual run of RG-6U Quad shield cable from the attic to a weatherproof box and from the box to the pole. The installation looks very professional and the weatherproof box will house the grounding coax adapter and any future switches.

The only problem is that I used wire ties to attach the conduit running up the pole and it doesn't look neat. Is there any bracket or device out there that I could use instead? My other problem is that at the top of the pole, I didn't really know how to curve the conduit so that water does not enter. I attached a right angle connector, but water can still enter from the side. I sealed the end with electrical tape until I can find a better solution.

I will post some pictures tonight, so that you will have a better idea of what I am talking about. I also am unsure about how long to keep the dual run cable since I am using a motor drive. I think I will leave enough to reach the feedhorn plus a foot. However the one run will be much longer since it must connect onto the motor drive.

If anyone has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated. Also, if you could post pictures of how you ran your wire that would be a great help as well.

 

[Tron]

I am considering an entry point for my cabling into the attic very similar to yours... with 3/4" PVC conduit running into the attic from my shed roof where the dishes are. I am considering using an entry cap, the ones used at the top of the conduit for incoming electrical service. They are angled down to keep water out, and usually accept 3-6 wires. The 3/4" entry cap should work well for RG-6 coax...

 

[PSB]

If all else fails silicon should seal any openings. Its great stuff.

 

[Mike500]

There are no special fittings for clamping the plastic conduit to the pole. When using direct burial cable, manytimes, I slice the pvc conduit lengthwise with a table saw and a carbide blade, choosing to place the cut out channel area next to the curvature of the pole and strapping it to the pole. In some cases, I have tried 16 gage 304 stainless steel wire wrapped and twisted over both the pole and the pvc conduit. THis is hard to see from anywhere except up close.

3M grey electrical tape used to be obtainable from Home Depot, but the only place where I see it now is at WW Grainger. It actually lasts longer than wire ties and is neat and hard to see.

They make a PVC weather head cable entrance head, but I really don't like it, since it is bulbous and ugly next to the pole.

I much prefer to make a custom cap out of a grey PVC cap especially made to fit the conduit. These are available at Lowes. Basically, I use a bans saw and cut a vertical slot at the width of two cable diameters off the side of the cap. Where the cable comes out of the conduit, I loop it back downward to drip off rain. Then, I fill about 2 inches of the top inside of the conduit end with a duct seal. Grardener Bender (GB) duct seal available at Home Depot at $2 for a one pound block is a good brand to use. This stuff is like non hardening putty. Then, I place the customized cap pver the top end with the two cables coming out of the side so that it goes down all except for one cable diameter. When I'm satisfied with the fit and the direction the cable comes out, I place just one small 1/4 inch swab of pvc cement one the bottom edge of the cap and push it down on the end of the conduit. This is enough to hold it in place indefinitely, yet I can break it loose, if I ever need to with an upward wack with a block of wood and a hammer, without damage. The cap can also be reused.

As far as the length of the movement loop is concerned, I'd just make ot longer than necessary and tape it temporarily in different positions, until I can trim it for the optimum length.

 

[ken2400]

Look for something made out of metel (stainless) so it stands the test of time.

Good luck

I just installed 3/4" conduit that contains a dual run of RG-6U Quad shield cable from the attic to a weatherproof box and from the box to the pole. The installation looks very professional and the weatherproof box will house the grounding coax adapter and any future switches.

The only problem is that I used wire ties to attach the conduit running up the pole and it doesn't look neat. Is there any bracket or device out there that I could use instead? My other problem is that at the top of the pole, I didn't really know how to curve the conduit so that water does not enter. I attached a right angle connector, but water can still enter from the side. I sealed the end with electrical tape until I can find a better solution.

I will post some pictures tonight, so that you will have a better idea of what I am talking about. I also am unsure about how long to keep the dual run cable since I am using a motor drive. I think I will leave enough to reach the feedhorn plus a foot. However the one run will be much longer since it must connect onto the motor drive.

If anyone has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated. Also, if you could post pictures of how you ran your wire that would be a great help as well.

 

[Mike500]

Now, come to think of it, I remember how I made these caps, and have a few ideas on an improvement.

Use a step drill or unibit to cut two 3/8" diameter holes in the cap side by side at the top taking into account that these holes must have it's top edge below the inside end wall of the cap. File off the space between the two holes flush with the bottom of the end wall of the cap. Cut a 3/8" slot between the two holes with a hacksaw down the side of the cap. This provides the right size channel for an individual cable to enter. Placing the cap on the end of the conduit will lock the cables in.

A company called "Band It" makes a 1/4" wide stainless steel clamp that would make a nice strap for holding the conduit to the pole. I remeber using this clamp and the winding tool to strap the CV joint boots on GM cars. The straps are long enough to hold both the conduit and the pole together.

As Ken2400 noted, stainless steel is good. I've done several installs on sea coast using 304 or 316 stainless steel poles. They may have cost ten times more than galvanized steel, but they still look brand new after five years, although the dishes have started to rust badly. At my old beach house in Nags Head, NC, I placed my mailbox on a stainless steel pipe 30 years ago. Too bad we sold the beach house 25 eyars ago. The pipe is still there, like new. Every several years I go there, there is a new mailbox on the same post.

Too bad that the cost of stainless steel has doubles in the past few years. Congress past a tariff on imported steel. China and other importers just send their finished stainless steel goods to places like WalMart, while manufacturers here must pay more for raw materials and pass on the price to the consumer. It hurts US businesses both ways.

 

[Mike500]

Here is an auction on eBay for a cheap Band-It tool and clamps;

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2475759483&ssPageName=MERC_VI_RSCC_Pr4_PcY_BIN_Stores

Please note that this is not my auction.