concrete base question

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Tks Greg for reassuring me for the crete in the pole,,,hope it holds

As for the pad,,,I made it due to the fact that I live in a high wind area,,,,

Try stay from the quick crete,,,,I used normal crete from bottom until halfway in the hole,,,then the rest and pad with the High resistence crete,,,,,

I rented a cement mixer,,,15 dlls for the day and I was done in half day

Most important is to mix yr crete real good,,,or as was mentioned,,,you could check with local cement companies and they will pour it for you
 
Anyone know what kind of specification that the L-bolts should be manufactured to? I'm having the bolts made at a local machine shop and want to get this right.
 
And now the other end of the spectrum....
I have 3 BUDs. One 10 foot and two 7.5 footers.
They are all in 3 foot deep x 1 foot augered holes. I think the holes took 3 or 4 bags each.
The 3.5 inch pipes have one small fin welded to them. I leveled the pipes with a digital angle finder and held them in place with ratchet straps until the concrete cured.
The 10 footer has been up for 3 New York state winters and so far (Lucky ????) hasn't moved... My weather station has recorded 50 mph gusts.
The frost line here is 42 inches.
YMMV
Joe
 
Anyone know what kind of specification that the L-bolts should be manufactured to? I'm having the bolts made at a local machine shop and want to get this right.

There is no point in reinventing the wheel. Just go to any builders supply (Lowes, Home Depot, etc) and ask for Anchor Bolts. These are what home builders use to attach the bottom of a house to the foundation. Before your concrete sets up stick these in where you need them and then smooth the concrete around them. Make sure you pick up any nuts and washers while you are at the store. Oh and as someone already mentioned, get the longest ones you can find.

A picture of what you are looking for can be found here;
Anchor Bolts | Right Angle Bolts | Right Angle Anchor Bolts - Anchor Bolt Source

I hope this helps.
 
There is no point in reinventing the wheel. Just go to any builders supply (Lowes, Home Depot, etc) and ask for Anchor Bolts. These are what home builders use to attach the bottom of a house to the foundation. Before your concrete sets up stick these in where you need them and then smooth the concrete around them. Make sure you pick up any nuts and washers while you are at the store. Oh and as someone already mentioned, get the longest ones you can find.

A picture of what you are looking for can be found here;
Anchor Bolts | Right Angle Bolts | Right Angle Anchor Bolts - Anchor Bolt Source

I hope this helps.

None of the places you mentioned stock galvanized L-bolts of 36" length - they're special order items and the minimum order is for a box of 10 (and it ain't cheap). One on-line place had a minimum order of $150 (not including shipping).
 
Are you talking about all-thread?
No I am not, I stated earlier in this thread that allthread is too soft, it has been annealed to make it so.

If you're going to have something machined (milled, turned, threaded, etc) mild steel is very strong. Here is a link

ROCKCRAWLER.com - Grade 5 vs. Grade 8 Fasteners

A 3/4" standard grade 3 bolt will take 33,000 lbs of shear and almost 43,000 lbs of pulling before failing. A grade 8 bolt is even stronger. Three 3/4" bolts give a combined strength of at least 60,000-70,000 lbs for grade 3.
 
I just ordered the bolts at $10 each (not including shipping) 3/4x42 with 2" bend plus nuts.
 
I got mine at the local steel supplier and only ever use 8'

Our frost line is maybe a bit deeper than yours. I'm in a rural area, so my options are a bit limited without a lot of travel. I went to the local salvage yard today, but they didn't have any schedule 40 pipe on hand at all. So I ended up with 10 feet of chrome plated hydraulic piston stock, 3 1/2" OD, with 1/2" thick walls. My pipe weighs 188 Lbs.:eek: But it should make for a solid mount.:D And it cost a third of what the local plumbing shop wanted for schedule 40 steel pipe.
 
You can always extend the concrete further than the pipe/pole and get below the freeze line. You can also weld on a fin or leg to the bottom of the pipe to extend it and also act as an anti-turning device. If you have two feet of pole into a one cubic yard block of cement you are looking at a two ton anchor, not counting what grip the cement provides on the dirt.
Unless you are at ground zero in a nuclear event, probably you won't have an issue :)
 
You can always extend the concrete further than the pipe/pole and get below the freeze line. You can also weld on a fin or leg to the bottom of the pipe to extend it and also act as an anti-turning device. If you have two feet of pole into a one cubic yard block of cement you are looking at a two ton anchor, not counting what grip the cement provides on the dirt.
Unless you are at ground zero in a nuclear event, probably you won't have an issue :)

I see your point. Well, what's done is done.
 
Now that I finally got my L bolts, I need my memory refreshed. Is the L turned outward or inward for maximum effect?
 
Now that I finally got my L bolts, I need my memory refreshed. Is the L turned outward or inward for maximum effect?

Outward is the only way I have ever seen them detailed in any foundation/pilaster section views I have ever seen, typically they would be pointed to the "corners" of a square concrete pilaster (column).

This assumes sufficient size of the concrete column so that the ends that are sticking out have plenty of concrete cover (at least 2"-3").
 
Outward is the only way I have ever seen them detailed in any foundation/pilaster section views I have ever seen, typically they would be pointed to the "corners" of a square concrete pilaster (column).

One bookl I have shows them facing inward. But I believe that my previous installations had the bolts facing outwards.

This assumes sufficient size of the concrete column so that the ends that are sticking out have plenty of concrete cover (at least 2"-3").

I'm not sure of what you mean. The bolts are 42" long that'll go into a 4' deep hole. Actually, 37" (42"-5" thread).

I'll have to check but I think I have to put about 6" of gravel in the bottom of the hole for drainage, also?
 
I'm not sure of what you mean. The bolts are 42" long that'll go into a 4' deep hole. Actually, 37" (42"-5" thread).

I'll have to check but I think I have to put about 6" of gravel in the bottom of the hole for drainage, also?

I mean the bolts should be no closer than 2-3" from the outside of the concrete at any point (except where they project at the top, of course).

I never put any drainage in my pole holes but we don't have a high water table around here, YMMV.

Take my suggestions for what they are worth (and what I am charging for them ;) ), I am not an engineer but I have installed and used thousands of anchor bolts and wedge/sleeve anchors in my life.

If you don't have a bolt setting template that was supplied with your mount you should make one, we used to make them out of 3/4" plywood. Also, and I think I saw this mentioned earlier, when you pour, protect your threads with duct tape, that will keep you from having to clean concrete out of them.
 
The pole is five feet long. A cantilever beam... I read that there are holes for three bolts in the flange. Just curious.. How big is the flange? (length between the holes, - length of the sides of the triangle, whatever)
 
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