Component video switch box

[johnpete]

I have more devices than I have inputs on my set.

I'm looking for a good (cost effective) switch box with three video inputs.

Any suggestions???

BTW... I now have both Voom and the 811.

John

 

[Sean Mota]

Check this out from Digital Connection

A/V Switcher 4x1 Component Digital Connection Part Number AA1154


Manufacturer: AUDIO AUTHORITY Manufacturer Part Number 1154

(Specs)
Product Descripton: Adaptive Signal Sensing AutoSelector 4x1 Component Video/Coax/Toslink/Analog Audio Switcher

Notes
AA Warranty - 1 year

Suggested Retail Price $194.00
Digital Connection Price $169.00

 

[BarryO]

I like the Inday switcher, www.inday.com It's a bit cheaper, and a good choice if you have a receiver that takes care of the audio switching. It's video specs are a bit better than the AA. Plus, the inputs are switched by discrete remote codes, rather than auto-switching. I tend not to like auto-switching as some devices which are turned "off" sometimes emit a video signal, either continually, or intermittantly.

 

[rudolpht]

I'll check out the inday. With a Dish 811 I have more sources than my 49TX receiver can switch, so I'm actually looking for receivers that have 4 + HD qual component inputs.

Tim

 

[johnpete]

I like the Inday switcher, www.inday.com It's a bit cheaper, and a good choice if you have a receiver that takes care of the audio switching. It's video specs are a bit better than the AA. Plus, the inputs are switched by discrete remote codes, rather than auto-switching. I tend not to like auto-switching as some devices which are turned "off" sometimes emit a video signal, either continually, or intermittantly.

Thanks Barry I'll have it by Friday. Free shipping too.

 

[Ransack]

I saw this one at best buy...

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?id=1064000347511&type=product&productCategoryId=cat08190

 

[Sean Mota]

This handy control device makes it easy to manage your entertainment system. The Universal System Selector Pro provides seven rear inputs for AV, 8-video, component video, digital output, Ethernet and full-functional outputs.

The Universal System Selector Pro offers inputs hidden behind an easy-access front panel. An eye-catching silver metal case with lighted name plates highlights this attractive package.

No back picture? that's cheap but it does not stay how many components.

 

[Sean Mota]

Best Buy now carries the "Pelican Pro" AV switcher.

Something like 6 component \ svideo \ composite inputs with a set of component \ svideo \ composite outputs. It even switches Toslink optical and 3 ethernet connections. You can find them in the video game section for $100.

I've read some reviews and it's generally well liked, apparently able to handle 35mhz of bandwidth.

I was able to dig this out...

 

[Sean Mota]

Here's more stuff for the switchers...

When it comes to component video switches you really need to watch the bandwidth. If you go with something less than 30Mhz and you watch 1080i or 720p you will start to see a loss in picture quality. The signs are reduced detail, dull color, muddiness, etc. These signs are most noticeable when you are testing the limits of HD. What I mean by that is when you are using large displays and watching programing with vivid colors (rich blues and reds). In some of my experimenting with the JVC, Sony and Recton products I have found them to introduce halos and rings in the reds and blues. These problems when not found in the Inday and Audio Authority products which I tested. I could not get the oscilloscope to work so I could not get hard numbers but the visual proof was enough for me. I did not test the Zektor product but from speaking with friends who upgraded from older AA products they say it is solid as well. I own an Inday and love it. My friend who helped in the testing owns the AA 1154. If I where to buy a new switch today, I would go with the Zektor due to its more A/V component like design. The size of the unit is the same as a receiver or DVD player so it does not look odd in a rack.

My parting shots are if the manufacture is not telling you an important detail such as the bandwith of the product it is because they don't want you to know.

Here is a test for the Pelican Pro:

I've aquired one, tested it, and fully evaluated it's design:

General Description:

The switch has 8 inputs, 7 on the rear and 1 on the front behind a door.

Each input has Y, Pr, Pb, Video, Left, Right, and S-video. Channels 1 to 3 also have Toslink and Ethernet.

The output has all of the mentioned signals, in addition to a second left and right audio output.

On the front it reads, "High Definition Component Video", however there is no other mention of this or HDTV anywhere including in the manual.

It has no IR capabilities and is controlled solely by the front panel buttons.

The unit was manufactured in China.

The paint job was slightly thin and inconsistent, but may not be noticable once installed in a home.

Inside the chassis reveals a sinlge sided PCB, and a relay based switching system. The connectors on the rear panel are vertically mounted on a rear panel PCB, and the two are joined by a tab and slot method rather than connectors.

Interestingly there is no circuitry for the ethernet. The ethernet signals are switched through a relay just like video and audio. One would think that with three ethernet jacks on the back there would be a hub inside, but not so. Switching this way would cause the unselected ethernet ports to loose their link.

It appears that the unit can be expanded to switch 8 toslink signals, but the manufacturer left out the last 5, presumably to reduce cost. Also noticed is the second audio output is wire tied to the first output, so this in effect is like adding a Y adapter in line.

Overall the build quality was that of a cheap $69 VCR, but one could expect that for the $99 retail price. The plastic front panel and door assembly operated marginally, and I would anticipate it breaking if used freqently.

Performance:

A 40MHz and 100MHz signal were passed through the switch to measure performance.

Below are the test results.

Loss (Y signal tested on channel 1)
40MHz -2.6dB
100MHz -4.6dB

Crosstalk (Agressor was Y, Victim was Pb, on channel 1)
40MHz -13dB
100MHz -10dB

The loss is bad enough that this device should be used for no greater than 480p.

However the crosstalk is bad enough that this may cause visible picture problems, even at 480p.

Picture quality:

DVD/480p OK

HDTV/1080i Softening of picture, some ghosting patterns

S-vid, Left and Right audio, Ethernet, and Toslink were not performance tested for now.

I have alot of pictures and don't know how to attach so someone tell me how.

For me, my Zektor HDS4 bought on eBay through at www.hdtvsupply.com is the best HDTV switcher on earth right now for my 4-1080i HDTV inputs,

 

[discodol]

Is Switching DTC100\Voom possible with Mits 65905

I have a Mits WS65905 and a DTC100 that connect with Y, Pr, Pb, H, and V connections. I would like to get VOOM but would need a switch that would switch between the DTC100 and the VOOM boxes. I know some of the component switches have 5 inputs\outputs but since the output from the switch to the Mits would be the 5 connections would the Mits or switch get confused when I switch to VOOM that only has 3 outputs into the switch? Will the Mits ignore the H and V connections when I switch to VOOM? If this will work are there any recommendations for the brand of switch to go with?

 

[Vaggeto]

You would need to have the DTC100 not sending a video signal to the HV parts when switching to Voom, or the picture will be messed up. I currently deal with this when switching from HTPC via RGBHV and component. As long as there is no signal to the HVs your TV will do OK when switching. If not it will make you take the HV coords out before giving you the option to switch back to component inputs.
That's how it is on my 65807.

 

[K4LK]

Checkout the HDS4 component/RGB/analog/optical 4 to 1 switch made by Zektor. Recently tested by Home Theater Mag (I think). Their web site is www.zektor.com.

 

[Vince2]

Just thought I would chime in on my experience: Bought the Pelican because I was in a hurry to get playstation hooked into system for the kids, immediately I could hear it introduced a wicked hum into my system. Likely a ground loop since Pelican box uses 12 VDC transformer and system voltage differential results in hum. Sure, the hum went away when I unplugged it, but the switch didn't work (it's passive, but needs power to manually switch? dumb). The manual switching really sucked too as once I'm in the chair...) Tons of outlets was nice, but no conversion. I actually sold it on Ebay for about what I paid ($89). Bought the Zektor, works great. Now thinking about Lumagen VisionPro scaler/switcher for even more fun but I haven't found an extra $1800 yet. BTW, Zektor has a new unit that has two component outputs if you have more than one monitor. Nice!

 

[DaveRBG]

Component Switching

I am considering using a receiver to switch my component video connections.
I am looking at a Yamaha THX 5660 2 components in, 1 component out.
According to the specs:
Component Signal DC-30MHZ, -3DB
I am concerned with signal loss since I am using it to switch my DVD output and HDTV output. Yamaha says it is HDTV compatible. Has anyone had any luck using a receiver to handle all the switching. the 5660 is attractive since it has all the inputs I need and fits my budget..

Dave

 

[CraziFuzzy]

I've posted about this at AVSForum, but what I actually did was use my Reciever.

I have a Yamaha RX-596 Reciever. It has 5 SVideo inputs. Each input also has Composite, L/R, and Digital Audio (either optical or coax, depending on the input). The video switching in the reciever has absolutely no circuitry in it except for relays, so what I did was actually use these inputs to switch my component sources. The SVideo has 2 75ohm signals, while the composite makes up the third. I found some cables on www.cables.com that has an SVideo jack on one end, and two RCA's on the other. I was originally a bit concerned about some quality loss, but I have had it hooked up now for over a month, and I have had no problems with the setup whatsoever. I have seen no bleeding of colors, no additional noise, nothing. Very happy with the results. This setup allows me to only have to worry about switching inputs on my reciever, and the video and audio both get swapped. It may not work with all recievers, but it did with this one.

 

[randym431]

I've used other Pelican switchers and found them all poor quality, poorly made. On game Pelican switchers, they produce a "buzz" often in the audio. I now use a philips a/v "smart" switcher that works excellent. I'm wondering if philips makes a component switcher?

 

[jose44]

Mitsubishi TV

I have a Mits WS65905 and a DTC100 that connect with Y, Pr, Pb, H, and V connections. I would like to get VOOM but would need a switch that would switch between the DTC100 and the VOOM boxes. I know some of the component switches have 5 inputs\outputs but since the output from the switch to the Mits would be the 5 connections would the Mits or switch get confused when I switch to VOOM that only has 3 outputs into the switch? Will the Mits ignore the H and V connections when I switch to VOOM? If this will work are there any recommendations for the brand of switch to go with?

I have a Mitsu 65903. It has no component HD hookups, only RGBHV. I don't know whether the 65905 has component hookups, but when you describe your connection it sounds like it is the same as mine.

If that's the case you need to have two different units: one that can choose between multiple RGBHV sources, and one that can convert YPbPr to RGBHV.

This will cost you serious money, though less than a new TV (the old Mitsus are still wonderful HDTV monitors).

I use an Altinex DA 1916SX to automatically switch between 2 RGBHV sources: that is, to hook into the TV input. In your case it would switch between your DTC-100 (which, with Voom, you'll no longer need anyway, I imagine.)

http://www.avsuperstore.com/moreinfo.cfm?id=2404

The Voom box would have to run into a Key Digital Systems KD CTCA-3

http://www.copperbox.com/lite/popinfo.php?lc_code=KD-CTCA3&uneek=69765913

which will convert a component signal into an RGBHV. Thus, the Voom would go Voom-->CTCA-3-->DA-1916SX-->TV.


Altogether, the whole package runs about $550. Essentially what it does is add more HD inputs to your TV.

All that being said, you might check on AVS forum to see whether the 65905 has a better way to go than the 65903. One of the 05 or 07 models finally had component HDTV.

 

[gtsmith]

For not too much dough (and 30 bucks off retail from one online retailer), the Audio Authority Component switcher model AA1154A is a fantastic deal. It switches in auto mode or manual mode four componment inputs, coax digital audio input, optical digital audio input and analog audio. I really like the fact that it will take in Coax and optical and convert between the two. So all my various components plug into this box, which then plug into one of the component inputs on my Denon 3803. It is sweet and very spouse/roommate friendly.

 

[aychamo]

These are really good ones:

Key Digital 4x1 Component Video/Audio Switchbox $349
http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/comp-vid-sw.html#4x1

Zektor 4 Channel HDTV Component Video Switch with Digital Audio $299
http://www.zektor.com/hds4/index.htm

AudioAuthority Adaptive Signal-Sensing AutoSelectorTM for HDTV $194
http://www.audioauthority.com/aacconsumers/1154c5577.html

The Key Digital from RamElectronics comes with an IR remote to switch inputs. I'm weary of the auto-switch. The Zektor one does not come with a remote, but you can program your remote to switch it. RamElectronics also has a 2x1 component switcher $169 ( http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/comp-vid-sw.html#2x1 ), but it is a manual switcher.

Just remember when you are getting these, to get one with sufficient bandwidth. I think I would go with the RamElectronics 4x1. Also, be realistic. These are expensive, and if you had to purchase an additional one because you didn't get one with enough inputs, that would suck. Also, here is something I'm wrestling with. Is it worth the money? I mean, I watch maybe one DVD a week. Is it so hard to switch the component cables? Or, if I went with a "manual" switch instead of one with an IR remote, would I regret it? Would it be such a pain in the ass to get up and go press a button?

 

[Scotty]

I have more devices than I have inputs on my set.

I'm looking for a good (cost effective) switch box with three video inputs.

Any suggestions???

BTW... I now have both Voom and the 811.

John

In the latest sound and vision magazine (July/August 2004 issue), on page 99 at the bottom left, they have small blurb about a component switcher called the MadCatz HDTV Component System Selector for $30. 4 inputs. I really think it means 3 inputs, one output, but I'd have to check the wb site:

http://www.madcatz.com/MadCatz/product_details.jsp?product_id=6132

That's what I think I'm going to get.